General Unibody Hate?

[pbethel]

Actually, If I had to replace my Ranger I think that I would seriously consider the Honda Ridgeline Sport model. I test drove one and it was well sorted out. I actually prefer a SCAB configuration, but I would certainly go that route over a Maverick or other unibody.

I want to qualify my statement further. The Ridgeline must be manufactured in Japan.

But the ones sold in the US are made in the US. Or Canada.

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[SFB]

Ha I can go one better, the stock pump in the Puma diesels fitted to Rangers outside of the US has a variable oil pump. It's chain driven - which is OK.
And a vane design with a movable outer chamber which effectively changes the stroke -which isn't.
The idea is to reduce the oil volume pumped at high speed on the assumption that a normal gear pump increases the flow rate linearly which in fact is not needed, with most of the extra oil going through the bypass back into the sump and thus wasting energy by needlessly pumping excess oil.
The problem is that under certain conditions this pump will unprime itself when doing an oil change and won't re-prime even when the oil is replaced. Enough engines were trashed during services that Ford had to issue a TSB about oil changes should not take more than 10 minutes.
If your pump unprimes then there are an arcane series of tricks you can try to fix it which include jacking up the back of the vehicle ( to increase the oil height) putting in 15 litres of oil - starting the engine momentarily, then draining out the excess, or putting an air line into the PCV line to try and pressurise the oil back up the pickup to the pump.

Needless to say an aftermarket manufacturer here has come up with a drop in replacement gear pump and is doing a good trade.

I wouldn’t try running it to re-prime! Disable fuel pump then put accelerator pedal all the way to the floor puts it in flood mode, then let it crank till it stops, then try again. Hard on battery but not on the engine.

 

[SFB]

I wouldn’t try running it to re-prime! Disable fuel pump then put accelerator pedal all the way to the floor puts it in flood mode, then let it crank till it stops, then try again. Hard on battery but not on the engine.

Sorry my bad, not sure if this works on diesels, thought it was a gas engine

 

[Cmar]

Sorry my bad, not sure if this works on diesels, thought it was a gas engine

The idea is you over fill it and leave over night to more or less prime and then start the next day to finish the process. Yes that how engines got trashed, people would fill them up, start up, and rev it up to build oil pressure - which never happened!

 

[SFB]

The idea is you over fill it and leave over night to more or less prime and then start the next day to finish the process. Yes that how engines got trashed, people would fill them up, start up, and rev it up to build oil pressure - which never happened!

Thanks, misread it. When I use to do my own oil changes I would, if I could, fill the filter. If I could not do that then I would hold accelerator pedal to the floor then just let it crank. I use to hate to hear the rattle from an engine on first start after an oil change. Doing this would eliminate that. I know this doesn't apply to this thread only throwing it out.

 

[Cmar]

Thanks, misread it. When I use to do my own oil changes I would, if I could, fill the filter. If I could not do that then I would hold accelerator pedal to the floor then just let it crank. I use to hate to hear the rattle from an engine on first start after an oil change. Doing this would eliminate that. I know this doesn't apply to this thread only throwing it out.

Yes I normally also fill my oil filters too where I can, unfortunately the filter on the diesel is a paper cartridge in a plastic holder which screws on sideways in a similar position to the ecoboost engine so unfortunately no way to fill it first.

 

[SFB]

Yes I normally also fill my oil filters too where I can, unfortunately the filter on the diesel is a paper cartridge in a plastic holder which screws on sideways in a similar position to the ecoboost engine so unfortunately no way to fill it first.

This filter location is not one of Ford's best ideas. In this case when doing an oil change I use the flood mode feature that all gas cars have to my knowledge, which is hold down throttle to the floor and let it crank...

 

[pbethel]

Since the manufacturers warranty their engines, one would think that if prefilling a filter made much difference they would design things so it could be done. And dictate that it be done during the filter change.
Just thinking out loud.

 

[SFB]

Since the manufacturers warranty their engines, one would think that if prefilling a filter made much difference they would design things so it could be done. And dictate that it be done during the filter change.
Just thinking out loud.

It’s a personal preference for me and it’s not required. I went to one of those oil change shops once and argued with the floor person who kept telling me it’s not a diesel and is not required! He finally relented, I was watching the tech under my car ( a van at that time), the floor person saw me watching and told the tech”Oh yea, pre-fill the filter” last time I went to one of rip off shops

 

[Dgc333]

Since the manufacturers warranty their engines, one would think that if prefilling a filter made much difference they would design things so it could be done. And dictate that it be done during the filter change.
Just thinking out loud.

You are absolutely correct. I never heard of prefilling an oil filter until forums and the internet became common place. All through high school and college I worked in garages and no one ever prefilled an oil filter. Certainly can't hurt but I don't think you could ever measure a difference in wear over a 200k miles in an engine that was prefilled and one that was not.

I have an oil pressure gauge in my Ranger and I can't see any delay in the oil pressure coming up on the first start after an oil change compared to every other start. The only thing I do notice is the oil pressure comes up slower and goes to a higher pressure in the winter compared to the summer.

 

[TJC]

Since the manufacturers warranty their engines, one would think that if prefilling a filter made much difference they would design things so it could be done. And dictate that it be done during the filter change.
Just thinking out loud.

I still prefill the filter to a large degree on my 2020 Ranger. The filter will soak it up enough to stop the engine rattle on start up. Just keep filling a little at a time watching it absorb. At the first sign of pooling let the filter sit upright and it will soak the puddle up. Then install the filter with no drips. It might take a few times to get the feel for what is too much, but this method works for me.

 

[Cmar]

I still prefill the filter to a large degree on my 2020 Ranger. The filter will soak it up enough to stop the engine rattle on start up. Just keep filling a little at a time watching it absorb. At the first sign of pooling let the filter sit upright and it will soak the puddle up. Then install the filter with no drips. It might take a few times to get the feel for what is too much, but this method works for me.

Yep this is the technique I use when doing my son's Hyundai V6, which goes on sideways but that's a traditional metal can filter, which tends to keep any excess inside because of the anti backflow valve. Whether it makes a difference or not ???? But it certainly makes the oil pressure pick up faster on the first start and minimizes lifter rattle.

The one on my diesel unfortunately is just a paper filter inside an open ended plastic can.

 

[TJC]

Does that go in from the top? If so, can you partially fill the filter bowl and then insert the filter? If not, there's no getting around that.

 

[Cmar]

Does that go in from the top? If so, can you partially fill the filter bowl and then insert the filter? If not, there's no getting around that.

No sadly it's just the camera angle, it goes in sideways through the wheel arch under the flap just like on the Ecoboost engines. You need an extension bar on the socket wrench to reach it.

 

[Cmar]

I think the single biggest issue with unibody trucks is just that - they're unibody. If I bend or break my tub on my Ranger, at any time there are literally hundreds available on the second hand market, some basically brand new, and maybe even in the right colour. Replacement is just half a dozen bolts and a couple of mates to help lift it off.
If that happens with a unibody it's a cut and shut major repair, maybe not even economic and almost certainly not as strong after.

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