Transmission/engine rattle

[DarthRanger66]

Hey everyone,

I have recently started hearing this rattle while under moderate acceleration. It isn't the engine buzzing we all have, it sounds like rocks knocking around. I am not 100% sure if its the engine or transmission. Although if I am in neutral and rev the engine, I do not hear it. I have 23k miles on my FX4 and it started recently.

The rattle isn't consistent, and comes and goes through the RPM range, but usually starts around 3k. Its very strange because if it was a knock, or some kind of trans failure you would think it would be constant. I have no other issues like slipping or hard shifting etc.

Has anyone had something similar to this happen, and if so, what did you find out?

Thank you!

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[Dr_Strangelove]

Have you looked underneath to be sure something isn't tangled up in your driveshaft or anything like that?

Your troubleshooting thus far tells us the vehicle must be in motion and it is not coming from the engine.

"Sounds like rocks hitting" but no transmission issues to speak of sounds like something whacking your undercarriage. Like a tree branch or something?

 

[DarthRanger66]

Have you looked underneath to be sure something isn't tangled up in your driveshaft or anything like that?

Your troubleshooting thus far tells us the vehicle must be in motion and it is not coming from the engine.

"Sounds like rocks hitting" but no transmission issues to speak of sounds like something whacking your undercarriage. Like a tree branch or something?

I'm speaking with another member who has the same issue. He's waiting to hear from his dealer. My underside is completely clean. Only recent changes are a diff drop and ICON suspension.

 

[Muddy Fenders]

worst thing i can think of being a torque converter issue, but i think other issues would arise as well.

How is your trans oil level?

beyond the expensive transmission issues, rocks in a can sound is generally a bearing issue.
How does your center bearing look? what about putting it on jack stands and rotating some wheels around and listening for any kind of bad bearing indications? CV joints???

 

[DarthRanger66]

worst thing i can think of being a torque converter issue, but i think other issues would arise as well.

How is your trans oil level?

beyond the expensive transmission issues, rocks in a can sound is generally a bearing issue.
How does your center bearing look? what about putting it on jack stands and rotating some wheels around and listening for any kind of bad bearing indications? CV joints???

I'll have to give that a shot. On Tuesday I could jack it up and see if I hear anything rotating the tires around etc. Also I want to check the trans fluid level since a lot of people report it being under filled. The center drive shaft bearing seems fine. I know people tend to hear some kind of high pitched squeal when that goes out.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I'm speaking with another member who has the same issue. He's waiting to hear from his dealer. My underside is completely clean. Only recent changes are a diff drop and ICON suspension.

Hi DR_66,

I think you might have ID'd the problem. Take a relook at your diff drop and the Suspension Mod...sounds like powertrain related as a Neutral Engine Run UP does not produce the sound. There is a very rare happening that is a Torque Converter throwing a blade and I do not know if the blades are brazed on our transmissions or just secured by metal deformation or if they are phoenolic. I really think it is related to the work you did or had done....

Good luck!

Best,
Phil

 

[Cmar]

Could it be pre-ignition, that might only show up when the engine is actually under load. Perhaps the knock sensor is faulty.

 

[DarthRanger66]

Hi DR_66,

I think you might have ID'd the problem. Take a relook at your diff drop and the Suspension Mod...sounds like powertrain related as a Neutral Engine Run UP does not produce the sound. There is a very rare happening that is a Torque Converter throwing a blade and I do not know if the blades are brazed on our transmissions or just secured by metal deformation or if they are phoenolic. I really think it is related to the work you did or had done....

Good luck!

Best,
Phil

On Tuesday I am going to check the trans fluid level, and then I will put the diff back into its original position. I'll drive around after doing that to see if that has any effect. There is another member who is bone stock who is having the same issue. Maybe there is a chance its the torque converter.

 

[DarthRanger66]

Hi DR_66,

I think you might have ID'd the problem. Take a relook at your diff drop and the Suspension Mod...sounds like powertrain related as a Neutral Engine Run UP does not produce the sound. There is a very rare happening that is a Torque Converter throwing a blade and I do not know if the blades are brazed on our transmissions or just secured by metal deformation or if they are phoenolic. I really think it is related to the work you did or had done....

Good luck!

Best,
Phil

So I attempted to check the trans fluid, and I think I may have a potential cause. I check it "cold" where it was leveled, and I started the truck and changed it between drive, neutral, and reverse a few times each. Leaving it in each selection for 30 seconds or so each time. I put it in neutral and got under the truck to check the level. So with the truck being completely cold and not starting, it read at the 4 mark. With me rowing it through the gears etc. It wasn't even registering on the dip stick. This was with the engine still running in neutral after a few minutes of idling. This seems to be similar to other members with trans issues and finding out its low on fluid.

I drove after putting the diff back into its stock position and it had no effect. Im going to buy 2 quarts of ULV fluid and put half a quart in to start and go from there.

 

[JasonTremor]

I encourage you to read this thread before adding any fluid. Checking it hot, in the proper transmission fluid temperature range, is really the only way to 100% get the level correct. However the thread below gives some hints at how you can alternatively approach it.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/check-your-transmission-fluid.21735/

 

[DarthRanger66]

I encourage you to read this thread before adding any fluid. Checking it hot, in the proper transmission fluid temperature range, is really the only way to 100% get the level correct. However the thread below gives some hints at how you can alternatively approach it.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/check-your-transmission-fluid.21735/

This is the thread I used as reference. I checked it using the cold method they all describe and I have similar results. After the engine and trans has been running for a few minutes, its not even registering. But I am coming home from running errands. I can attempt to check it hot. I'll see what happens.

 

[JasonTremor]

This is the thread I used as reference. I checked it using the cold method they all describe and I have similar results. After the engine and trans has been running for a few minutes, its not even registering. But I am coming home from running errands. I can attempt to check it hot. I'll see what happens.

Sounds like you are on the right track then. I too found that at low temperatures while engine running, the fluid didn't register on the stick. However at operating temp, it was technically in the low end of acceptable range. I added about 12oz to get to high end of range.

These Ford 10speed autos sure are noisy compared to other vehicles. I hear certain frequencies very well and if i dont have the radio on, i hear all the solenoids actuating between shifts. I too thought something was wrong early on and drove other rangers and ecoboost mustangs to compare. They too made those noises, so i rolled with dealer feedback it was normal for the transmission.

 

[Msfitoy]

Sounds like you are on the right track then. I too found that at low temperatures while engine running, the fluid didn't register on the stick. However at operating temp, it was technically in the low end of acceptable range. I added about 12oz to get to high end of range.

These Ford 10speed autos sure are noisy compared to other vehicles. I hear certain frequencies very well and if i dont have the radio on, i hear all the solenoids actuating between shifts. I too thought something was wrong early on and drove other rangers and ecoboost mustangs to compare. They too made those noises, so i rolled with dealer feedback it was normal for the transmission.

My cold running check the level is at 6...adjusted for hot should be at 5...interestingly, I can't hear a thing coming from my tranny even with windows closed and radio off...

 

[DarthRanger66]

Sounds like you are on the right track then. I too found that at low temperatures while engine running, the fluid didn't register on the stick. However at operating temp, it was technically in the low end of acceptable range. I added about 12oz to get to high end of range.

These Ford 10speed autos sure are noisy compared to other vehicles. I hear certain frequencies very well and if i dont have the radio on, i hear all the solenoids actuating between shifts. I too thought something was wrong early on and drove other rangers and ecoboost mustangs to compare. They too made those noises, so i rolled with dealer feedback it was normal for the transmission.

I stuffed some towels in my glove so I could bear to touch the downpipe... here's the reading warm.

It looks to be at or below 5. I checked it 3 times. Engine still running after driving around for about an hour.

 

[DarthRanger66]

Wait...back up a bit...your last reading "cold running" was at 4...you mentioned that you were going to add a quart...where did that cold reading come to "after" adding the fluid?

Would've been great if you had done a reading after adding fluid while "cold running" so we can get the actual relationship between the two readings...

5 hot is correct...

No, I haven't added anything. My "cold" reading, which was turning the truck on and putting the trans in drive, neutral, reverse, etc. For a couple of minutes. It didn't even read on the dipstick.

So engine off, completely cold was 4.
"Cold" but engine running - not registering
Warm reading after driving for a while. - 5 or just below.

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