Cone air filter replacement

[Superdannyboy]

Hey guys,

So I was looking for a replacement for my mishimoto air filter as I don't want to wash and reuse them and I put an AFE cone filter.

I have the mishimoto performance intake and the filter is $153.

I measured the top and bottom diameters and the length of the mishi filter and found the surface area, then went to AutoZone, O'Reilly's, and advanced Autoparts but couldn't find a cone with equal or more surface area.

I decided to go to summit racing and went through the specs of filters until.i found one that had about 25 more square inches of surface area.

I used my calibrated mitutoyo calipers but kinda took a rough estimate on the dimensions.

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[Dgc333]

That AFE filter is intended to be washed and reused, it just doesn't get oiled.

 

[Superdannyboy]

That AFE filter is intended to be washed and reused, it just doesn't get oiled.

The afe filter is dry I'll throw it in the gutter and go and buy another.
I was replacing the mishimoto oiled filter that can be washed and reoiled but I didn't want to do that.

 

[t4thfavor]

Bad for your turbo blades. I would stick with the dry flow with a sock on it, or factory paper. I’ve seen lots of turbo blades sandblasted to shit in 40k miles from k&n style filters.
Green filters should have an oiled one for the Ranger, but again it will let in more dirt to wreck the turbo.

 

[Dgc333]

Bad for your turbo blades. I would stick with the dry flow with a sock on it, or factory paper. I’ve seen lots of turbo blades sandblasted to shit in 40k miles from k&n style filters.
Green filters should have an oiled one for the Ranger, but again it will let in more dirt to wreck the turbo.

I have been driving turbo vehicles continuously since 1985, all of them have had an oiled gauze filter. Several of them had 200,000 + miles on them when I moved on to another vehicle. Never had a turbo failure or one with the "turbo blades sandblasted to shit".

If you read independent air filter tests performed to standard SAE test methods you will see that the difference between a factory filter and oiled gauze like a K&N is high 90s% efficient for the factory filter and low 90s% efficient for the the K&N style filter. Certainly not enough difference to ruin turbo blades.

 

[Dgc333]

The afe filter is dry I'll throw it in the gutter and go and buy another.
I was replacing the mishimoto oiled filter that can be washed and reoiled but I didn't want to do that.

The only real reason to have and oiled gauze or dry performance filter like the AFE is that in the long run you can save a buck on filter costs, they don't add enough power to feel it by the butt dyno.

If you are really going to toss that filter when it is dirty please by all means send it my way, I will pay the postage.

 

[Superdannyboy]

The only real reason to have and oiled gauze or dry performance filter like the AFE is that in the long run you can save a buck on filter costs, they don't add enough power to feel it by the butt dyno.

If you are really going to toss that filter when it is dirty please by all means send it my way, I will pay the postage.

I wanted to give an option of a filter to those that have the mishimoto box, which increases the mass air flow rate and decreases turbulent flow, when they want to replace it or if like me.they don't want to wash it and reuse it.
I like to keep old parts as decorations haha.

 

[Superdannyboy]

Bad for your turbo blades. I would stick with the dry flow with a sock on it, or factory paper. I’ve seen lots of turbo blades sandblasted to shit in 40k miles from k&n style filters.
Green filters should have an oiled one for the Ranger, but again it will let in more dirt to wreck the turbo.

To me that would then equal to a turbo upgrade.

 

[t4thfavor]

To me that would then equal to a turbo upgrade.

But when you get the better turbo? Then what? Yet another turbo upgrade?

I think I like your style!

 

[Superdannyboy]

But when you get the better turbo? Then what? Yet another turbo upgrade?

I think I like your style!

Well if it happens because of the oiled filter then I will know not to use oiled filters.

I'm building my truck into a race truck but I have to daily it until December then I'll buy an expedition for my wife and I'll daily the f150. I'm excited to use the 2.3 and I'll start in Austin then race in El Paso then eventually head to Baja races. By then I'll have the much more better UMP air filter.

 

[t4thfavor]

Well if it happens because of the oiled filter then I will know not to use oiled filters.

I'm building my truck into a race truck but I have to daily it until December then I'll buy an expedition for my wife and I'll daily the f150. I'm excited to use the 2.3 and I'll start in Austin then race in El Paso then eventually head to Baja races. By then I'll have the much more better UMP air filter.

The k&n type filters were originally designed to be used on race trucks where the engine might see a few races before it’s torn down and rebuilt. But I get the idea you’re going for. Just remember to check the impeller blades for a dull or pitted looking finish. If you see that, they are losing efficiency in a large way.

 

[9zero1790]

not to take a side or fuel any discontent. ive always been very skeptical of almost all after market "performance" air filters and boxes and so called "cold air" intakes. some seem to just be sucking in more hot air from under the hood near a hot engine or being more of a visual "tuner" upgrade with bright colors flashy trims and stickers... yes im aware of testing and dyno results. however, 99.9% of the time i drive my cars trucks and toys in the real world not on dynos, while being data logged or on a track during the best conditions. in my opinion some of the air filters and intake setups are only going to see a once in a lighting strike peak increase from whatever new air box / filter craze is trending. or a modest improvement under thin conditions at certain rpm for a hot flash. the factory air intakes and filters that are factory equals typically work pretty damn well and have had overwhelmingly more money time thought and design intent per application than the majority of after market shops and set ups can afford to match. auto builders do not typically go out of the way to leave easy horsepower, torque, efficiency and durability on the table in easy to change places like a filter. they will cut corners for cost and profit of course! hence a better quality filter to fit the factory setup, sure. im not saying one is better than the other or to keep a factory box and filter. your ride your money do what makes ya happy. my point in that ramble was consider putting the money from air filter and air intake setups towards stuff that is gonna give you a real world most of the time benefit like a quality tune, better throttle body, gearing and the like.

 

[Superdannyboy]

not to take a side or fuel any discontent. ive always been very skeptical of almost all after market "performance" air filters and boxes and so called "cold air" intakes. some seem to just be sucking in more hot air from under the hood near a hot engine or being more of a visual "tuner" upgrade with bright colors flashy trims and stickers... yes im aware of testing and dyno results. however, 99.9% of the time i drive my cars trucks and toys in the real world not on dynos, while being data logged or on a track during the best conditions. in my opinion some of the air filters and intake setups are only going to see a once in a lighting strike peak increase from whatever new air box / filter craze is trending. or a modest improvement under thin conditions at certain rpm for a hot flash. the factory air intakes and filters that are factory equals typically work pretty damn well and have had overwhelmingly more money time thought and design intent per application than the majority of after market shops and set ups can afford to match. auto builders do not typically go out of the way to leave easy horsepower, torque, efficiency and durability on the table in easy to change places like a filter. they will cut corners for cost and profit of course! hence a better quality filter to fit the factory setup, sure. im not saying one is better than the other or to keep a factory box and filter. your ride your money do what makes ya happy. my point in that ramble was consider putting the money from air filter and air intake setups towards stuff that is gonna give you a real world most of the time benefit like a quality tune, better throttle body, gearing and the like.

Have you not seen the improvement the mishimoto intake gives with other mods combined?

The bang is in the 90° elbow after the airbox, I don't care what filter is in there if it's flat, a cone, or a magical star. The stock elbow has ribs all in it to allow for flex when flooring the engine. These ribs create turbulent flow which reduces the mass air flow rate. When flooring the engine, the engine moves so mishi has a rubber connection where the elbow connects to the box to allow for the movement there while putting a smooth 90° elbow. No ribs=smoother epsilon=less turbulent flow=larger mass flow rate=more air=more power now add a downpipe and exhaust and a proper tune and it's actually scary to drive with long travel when you've been out of the seat for a week.
I think a bigger argument could be made of do we even need a freakin airbox why not get rid of the 90° elbow which slows down air flow in itself because it is still a bend and stick a straight pipe to hold the sensors with a cone filter in the middle of the engine bay and upgrade the intercooler which keeps temps down anyway and have an even faster mass air flow rate.
I actually am going to look into this because I need shock hoops to go where the battery is and where the airbox is so the battery can go to the bed and maybe I'll sell the mishimoto performance intake because it is a great bolt on and someone would love to have it.

 

[9zero1790]

Have you not seen the improvement the mishimoto intake gives with other mods combined?

The bang is in the 90° elbow after the airbox, I don't care what filter is in there if it's flat, a cone, or a magical star. The stock elbow has ribs all in it to allow for flex when flooring the engine. These ribs create turbulent flow which reduces the mass air flow rate. When flooring the engine, the engine moves so mishi has a rubber connection where the elbow connects to the box to allow for the movement there while putting a smooth 90° elbow. No ribs=smoother epsilon=less turbulent flow=larger mass flow rate=more air=more power now add a downpipe and exhaust and a proper tune and it's actually scary to drive with long travel when you've been out of the seat for a week.
I think a bigger argument could be made of do we even need a freakin airbox why not get rid of the 90° elbow which slows down air flow in itself because it is still a bend and stick a straight pipe to hold the sensors with a cone filter in the middle of the engine bay and upgrade the intercooler which keeps temps down anyway and have an even faster mass air flow rate.
I actually am going to look into this because I need shock hoops to go where the battery is and where the airbox is so the battery can go to the bed and maybe I'll sell the mishimoto performance intake because it is a great bolt on and someone would love to have it.

im sure its impressive when combined with other mods. upgrading the intercooler is always a good idea ive seen a few options on the market for the ranger 2.3

 

[TheBadger]

"why not get rid of the 90° elbow which slows down air flow in itself because it is still a bend and stick a straight pipe to hold the sensors with a cone filter in the middle of the engine bay and upgrade the intercooler which keeps temps down anyway and have an even faster mass air flow rate."

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