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Jason L

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I should also point out the IGN-3 does not seem to have a battery, or a battery drain cuttoff, so it's only stated purpose is to provide an ignition wire tap.
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rangerdanger

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I guess my question, is why would a company make the PAC IGN-3, and why would Ford include it in the kit if it wasn't needed.

All the box seems to do is give you those 3 leads, but makes it sound like ignition controlled is not available unless it monitors the bus to determine if its an ignition off, or auto/start stop.

I also see some dashcam threads where people with newer cars are being called idiots for wiring their cams wrong because they go into park mode on auto stop. The DIYers cant find an ignition only trigger.

So lots of technology in this truck, that IGN-3 device must do something of value.
From reading the manual you can set the delay loop of 10 sec or 140 sec.

Phantom Ignition Module for CAN-Bus Vehicles.png
 
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That manual is what I was reading.

"The IGN-3 module monitors the voltage level... to sense the starting of the engine... and turns on the phantom ignition output". If there was a fuse/wire that goes on/off with ignition but does not also go on/off with auto start/stop then this seems like a way over engineered way to go about it.

"The IGN-3 is designed with 2 different power-off delay settings, that can be used to compensate... during partial power shut down scenarios" So this thing seems to be needed to "compensate" for partial shut downs.

"Aftermarket accessory is shutting off while vehicle is running... cut the brown loop to increase the power-off delay" So basically if your auto start/stop is killing ignition power while the vehicle is running, you can push to 140 seconds to hope auto start triggers before it kills power to the device.

People on other vehicle threads have tried just installing a Power Magic Pro to a lead that powers off with the auto stop cycle figuring the delay would overcome the time where the vehicle was considered off. The problem is when the Power Magic Pro shuts off due to low battery voltage, there are times when you first start the car where auto start/stop kicks in but the battery has not yet recovered enough to untrigger the low voltage cut-off of the Power Magic, so the camera device gets shut off.

So from everything I read, if you had a lead that was hot when ignition turned on and remained on through auto/start stop until ignition was turned off, you would not need the IGN-3 device at all. Are they putting it in just for a 10 seconds delay on manual ignition off? It has to be related to auto/start stop.
 

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That manual is what I was reading.

"The IGN-3 module monitors the voltage level... to sense the starting of the engine... and turns on the phantom ignition output". If there was a fuse/wire that goes on/off with ignition but does not also go on/off with auto start/stop then this seems like a way over engineered way to go about it.

"The IGN-3 is designed with 2 different power-off delay settings, that can be used to compensate... during partial power shut down scenarios" So this thing seems to be needed to "compensate" for partial shut downs.

"Aftermarket accessory is shutting off while vehicle is running... cut the brown loop to increase the power-off delay" So basically if your auto start/stop is killing ignition power while the vehicle is running, you can push to 140 seconds to hope auto start triggers before it kills power to the device.

People on other vehicle threads have tried just installing a Power Magic Pro to a lead that powers off with the auto stop cycle figuring the delay would overcome the time where the vehicle was considered off. The problem is when the Power Magic Pro shuts off due to low battery voltage, there are times when you first start the car where auto start/stop kicks in but the battery has not yet recovered enough to untrigger the low voltage cut-off of the Power Magic, so the camera device gets shut off.

So from everything I read, if you had a lead that was hot when ignition turned on and remained on through auto/start stop until ignition was turned off, you would not need the IGN-3 device at all. Are they putting it in just for a 10 seconds delay on manual ignition off? It has to be related to auto/start stop.
I think the best place to start is with the unused spare fuses and go from there. @j0shm1lls is getting his truck before me so maybe he can troubleshoot for us.
 

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"The IGN-3 module monitors the voltage level... to sense the starting of the engine... and turns on the phantom ignition output".
That's exactly what the "voltage quality module" fuse does. When the engine is cranking to start the engine back up after an auto stop event it takes whatever input voltage it gets and regulates it up to maintain a constant 12v output.
 


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j0shm1lls

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I don't see enough cable length to power the main dashcam, assuming it's running from the passenger fuse box. Makes me think the harness plugs into somewhere under the headliner or A-pillar.
Found some install instructions - searched for the part number and it appears that this cam was originally designed for the Edge. And unfortunately it's prewired to use the OBDII port.
 

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Found some install instructions - searched for the part number and it appears that this cam was originally designed for the Edge. And unfortunately it's prewired to use the OBDII port.
Thanks. I will definitely not go the ODBII route.
 

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Is the IGN-3 really needed? I don't see why you can't pull ACC power from the same fuse as the radio, that's how I wired up my dash cam on my HHR.

Now I could be wrong here, I've never worked on a car with start and stop.
 
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I don't claim to be an expert, so can someone take a look at this schematic. This is how I imagine wiring the IGN-3 Latching Phantom Ignition Module would go.

Dashcam.webp
There would also, at minimum be a Dash Cam to ground connection. I intend to use a Power Magic Pro to keep the cam running after ignition is off, for parking coverage, which means the power magic pro module would be between the IGN-3 and DashCam. It would connect to all 3 wires, the ground, the 12+ constant power, and the ignition.

The wiring harness is a quick connect for the ODBII so you don't need to Add-A-Fuse, but while the harness looked like a great idea, I don't like that it goes to the ODBII. Was hoping that harness went to a hidden adapter under the dash.
 
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Is the IGN-3 really needed? I don't see why you can't pull ACC power from the same fuse as the radio, that's how I wired up my dash cam on my HHR.

Now I could be wrong here, I've never worked on a car with start and stop.
From their advertising: "The switched power circuit in these vehicles can “sag” during the repeated engine restarts. This “sag” or momentary drops in voltage can wreak havoc on aftermarket devices – causing them to shutoff and reboot."

Apparently the low voltage monitor in devices like the Power Magic Pro gets triggered on that SAG. Regular dashcams just power off thinking voltage is gone, even though its just momentarily low. I think @j0shm1lls was mentioning there may be a fuse that has cleaned power in the vehicle, that is what is needed.
 

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From their advertising: "The switched power circuit in these vehicles can “sag” during the repeated engine restarts. This “sag” or momentary drops in voltage can wreak havoc on aftermarket devices – causing them to shutoff and reboot."

Apparently the low voltage monitor in devices like the Power Magic Pro gets triggered on that SAG. Regular dashcams just power off thinking voltage is gone, even though its just momentarily low. I think @j0shm1lls was mentioning there may be a fuse that has cleaned power in the vehicle, that is what is needed.

Oh I see. Thanks.

Learning something new everyday.
 

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Procedure for removing the driver's side A-pillar for proper cable routing. Looks like a nightmare to me.
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