Lariat B&O Full System Upgrade

RedlandRanger

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I'm curious - I haven't seen any mention of this, but how is replacing this going to affect the active noise cancellation that is supposed to be in the Rangers? I would seem like you would lose it if you replace the system (or at least part of it).
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REW is a great program. You can get tons of info and help with it at AVSforum.com. You can also pick up an affordable mic like the Dayton Audio UMM-6 with downloadable calibration file from Parts Express.

+1 on sound deadening. Huge improvement for minimal cost and fairly easy to do. In my experience , closed cell foam treatments do more than stuff like Dynamat Xtreme but using both is ideal.

Here's a great video showing how it's done on a Ranger:

 
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fusseli

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Does that program have a white noise setting on it? Is there a smoothing setting like 1/24 or 1/12 oct? I'm not familiar with REW. REW looks like a free program. Might be time to download and start playing with it. Always love new toys.

How did you get the signal from your laptop to your head unit? Bluetooth?

I'm considering how to get measurements done in my truck too eventually. Something I was wondering about - One of those Car auxilliary FM transmitters. Maybe something like this. Don't need the type with USB, and I'm sure it would roll off with typical FM bandwidth, but I would expect it to be reasonably flat within key bandwidth and then I could do impulse measurements and then maybe have some control over gating and other stuff. But I kinda get the feeling that's not going to work. (maybe because of class D amps)and we will be stuck with white noise and RTA measurements.
Yeah that was "white" noise: "The Pink Noise generator uses white noise filtered through a -10 dB/decade filter generated from a weighted sum of a series of first order filters, as devised by Paul Kellet circa 1999. Stated accuracy is within 0.05 dB above 9.2 Hz at 44.1 kHz sample rate." REW has really handy to use signal generators, SPL meter for calibrated mics, RTA, sweeps, parametric EQ optimization, etc. etc.

Yeah, bluetooth connected to a laptop for audio makes a stereo signal.

No smoothing was applied to the RTAs I posted, but yes I believe REW supports both!
 
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fusseli

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I'm curious - I haven't seen any mention of this, but how is replacing this going to affect the active noise cancellation that is supposed to be in the Rangers? I would seem like you would lose it if you replace the system (or at least part of it).
I have no idea how the noise cancellation or engine noise enhancement would be impacted. I am guessing the Sync module provides audio stream to the stereo that get summed at the B&O amp, all over the A2B data bus. For non-B&O I am guessing the mixing/summation happens at the head unit.

I also don't know what selectivity in audio streams is built in or adjustable on the NavTV A2B, other than picking which speakers get notifications/chimes/phone.
 
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fusseli

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REW is a great program. You can get tons of info and help with it at AVSforum.com. You can also pick up an affordable mic like the Dayton Audio UMM-6 with downloadable calibration file from Parts Express.

+1 on sound deadening. Huge improvement for minimal cost and fairly easy to do. In my experience , closed cell foam treatments do more than stuff like Dynamat Xtreme but using both is ideal.

Here's a great video showing how it's done on a Ranger:

That video makes me want to try sound reduction treatments before ditching the B&O speakers!

One possibility that fits with my path would be to actually keep the B&O speakers, replace the sub, and add a 5ch amp and NavTV A2B. I could always replace speakers later, that's easy .... Hmmm.

I completely agree with what the guy says in the video, and to echo @Zaph, the car audio industry is huge cesspool of aftermarket crap. I am trusting there's more than meets the eye with most premium sound speakers. A $50-$100 pair of coaxials, or components, to replace the B&Os would probably be a downgrade.
 


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fusseli

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I spent a while thinking through the options. It actually would greatly simplify the build to swap the front doors to come component speakers with passive crossovers. Reason being, they need their own amp channels and active filters. Here are the two options I am seeing:

Two amps + active crossovers:
Front doors + Sub, 5ch, like Kenwood KAC-D8105 + active crossover AudioControl 2XS
Rear doors, 2ch like Kicker 43DXA125.2

-OR-

Single 5-channel amp:
Front doors + Rear doors + Sub, 5ch, like Kenwood KAC-D8105 or Alpine PDX-V9
*Must change front door to component speakers with passive crossovers

I have a pair of old Alpine Type-R components laying around, the Alpine SPR-17S, I am thinking about using those or selling them and going with something like the Morel Maximus 602.
 
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Montana Ranger

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I have a Lariat SuperCab, which unlike the CrewCab does not have the B&O system. (Guess there wasn't enough room for the extra speakers) I did sample the B&O system in a CrewCab before buying mine, but I really didn't sound all that much better to me. The low end was definitely weak, just as it is in the non-B&O SuperCab.
 
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fusseli

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Here's the tweeter situation in the Ranger B&O stereo. Looks like a silk dome, which is good, but a filter cap off the back, which is not what I was expecting. It's possible there's factory digital filtering at the amp in addition to the filter cap, I'm not sure. No issue for me since it looks like the Alpine component tweeter will fit into the sail really well with some minor modifications.



20200307_115253.jpg


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B&O left Alpine Type-R right.jpg
 
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fusseli

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Getting ready to gear up with parts. Not pictured: decided on a Kenwood Excelon X802-5 5ch amp and an Alpine S-W8D4 sub.

gearlist.PNG
 

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Thanks for all the pics and info @fusseli. Nice to see a well documented sound system upgrade. Would you be interested in selling all of your stock B&O speakers?
 

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Here's the tweeter situation in the Ranger B&O stereo. Looks like a silk dome, which is good, but a filter cap off the back, which is not what I was expecting. It's possible there's factory digital filtering at the amp in addition to the filter cap, I'm not sure. No issue for me since it looks like the Alpine component tweeter will fit into the sail really well with some minor modifications.
I'm pretty sure the cap is a bass blocker to protect the tweeter at high volumes. I wired one in with each new tweeter. Do you think that was a bad idea?

It didn't seem to hurt the highs at all. I used high quality 22mfd Non Polarized electrolytic caps per some tables I googled.

I had to buy 10 so if you want a couple of free ones, PM me.
 
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fusseli

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I'm pretty sure the cap is a bass blocker to protect the tweeter at high volumes. I wired one in with each new tweeter. Do you think that was a bad idea?

It didn't seem to hurt the highs at all. I used high quality 22mfd Non Polarized electrolytic caps per some tables I googled.

I had to buy 10 so if you want a couple of free ones, PM me.
What new tweeters did you put in? Yeah a 22 uF would be a fairly low high pass filter, added to whatever signal the tweeter is getting already.
 

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What value is the cap that was on the OEM tweeter? That would point out if it was just a click/pop/thump filter or if it was actually in place as part of the tweeter's rolloff.
 

Johnpenn

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What value is the cap that was on the OEM tweeter? That would point out if it was just a click/pop/thump filter or if it was actually in place as part of the tweeter's rolloff.
I installed a pair of Morel TEMPO ULTRA 602 6.5" component speakers in the front. The Morel tweeters are 1.25 in. and rated to go down pretty far so I used 22mfd. I think the original tweeters had 33mfd. protectors but they looked like 1 in. diameter tweeters so probably rated higher range. The Morel components seem to have a more balanced sound than the originals so I'm using the OEM amplifier.
 
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Zaph

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Oh ok I see that. Yes, just there for protection it appears, and it's a good idea to keep something in place, unless you are using a passive crossover with a component system.

With my non- B&O system, which appears to not have a dedicated tweeter amp, I would suspect the cap is a 2.2 uF or something like that. looks easy to get at, I'll have to pop it open and take a look.
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