Shudder, shake and shimmy.

Fitzmotor

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Sounds like brakes, I misread, it I thought it shook on decell off the brakes, good luck!
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All- thanks for the input and feedback!
Will be following up with dealer and will circle back with whatever the fix (or fixes) seem to be.
 

airline tech

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When the dealer turned the rotors, were the rear pads replaced along with it?
I think if you replace both the rotors and pads, the issue will resolve.

Possible reasons for continued vibration:

The rotor (Pad contact surface) has been resurfaced, but it is possible that the hub flange of the rotor is still warped, creating a side-to-side wobble of the rotor as is spins.

Rotor Hub warpage is mainly caused from improper lug nut torque.

Or:

Once the rotor is heated back up, it forms back to the original shape it had before resurfacing.


If using original pads with turned rotors, the pad surface has been overheated and glazed causing them not to bed properly with the new surface, thus the pad material is softened and is releasing material and coating the rotor surface, causing greater friction on the surface. (Grab and Release) effect on the surface. (You will feel this as a Vibration)

The reason for it being more pronounced when going downhill, is due to a longer duration that the brakes are being applied. (Longer Duration = More Friction and Heat) on the pads and rotors.
Plus add in the rotational speed of the rotor adding even more friction.
 

Rocketeer61

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If using tow mode with cruise control it will engine brake. The only manufacturer I have seen apply the brakes automatically with cruise is Subaru and I think it's the dumbest thing ever
"God help us, we're in the hands of engineers."
---Ian Malcolm
 
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Alright, OP here with update.
tech found a rear shock that was compromised and compressing way to easily - leading to increased “jumping” of rear end. He also shaved down front rotors. Issues mostly resolved. I think residual vibration, which is significantly reduced, stems from tires…so next up to replace will be those. I’ll be digging through forums for recommendations, but if anyone wants to recommend- I’m all ears.
Mostly highway/city driving with
Forest roads and some random off roads but limited.

finally - last thoughts on a spacer up front to get rid of rake?

thanks to all who replied earlier. This forum has been, and continues to be awesomely helpful.
 


Frenchy

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Alright, OP here with update.
tech found a rear shock that was compromised and compressing way to easily - leading to increased “jumping” of rear end. He also shaved down front rotors. Issues mostly resolved. I think residual vibration, which is significantly reduced, stems from tires…so next up to replace will be those. I’ll be digging through forums for recommendations, but if anyone wants to recommend- I’m all ears.
Mostly highway/city driving with
Forest roads and some random off roads but limited.

finally - last thoughts on a spacer up front to get rid of rake?

thanks to all who replied earlier. This forum has been, and continues to be awesomely helpful.
Screw spacers
If you are going to do it then do it right. As you clearly found out there is a problem with the factory shocks. I recommend replacing with either Bilstein or Eibach in your case
 
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If you are going to do it then do it right. As you clearly found out there is a problem with the factory shocks. I recommend replacing with either Bilstein or Eibach in your case
Thanks Frenchy!
yeah was very surprised that a shock would sh*t the bed on a rather gently used truck at <36k miles.
Appreciate it.
 

Frenchy

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Thanks Frenchy!
yeah was very surprised that a shock would sh*t the bed on a rather gently used truck at <36k miles.
Appreciate it.
As long as you are willing to spend a bit I would actually recommend the Old Man EMU lift (surprise I know 🫠). Instead of the 3 inch rake it would be about a 2 inch rake. Overall I was happy with it and I suspect you would like it to. The picture attached is with 32's

0906201648.jpg
 

P. A. Schilke

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As long as you are willing to spend a bit I would actually recommend the Old Man EMU lift (surprise I know 🫠). Instead of the 3 inch rake it would be about a 2 inch rake. Overall I was happy with it and I suspect you would like it to. The picture attached is with 32's

0906201648.jpg

BC? Before Cow?

best,
Phil
 

Racket

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I don't off-road but occasionally haul/tow stuff and my truck is my daily driver too. For tires I went with H rated Michelins recommended for the 'light truck' - the highway ride and noise level was more pleasant than the factory Bridgestones and mileage was maybe a hair better.

Not the cheapest tires but long term quality I don't think I'll regret.
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