Rookie Trailer Hitch Question

[J Haggerty (RADAR1)]

I had to get a new drawbar for our 2WD Ranger since the one on the Dakota needed a 5" rise (6" drop), and the Ranger (2WD) needed a 4" drop with the same camper. I got this one; "
CURT 45270 Class 3 Trailer Hitch Ball Mount, Fits 2-Inch Receiver, 7,500 lbs. GTW, 1-Inch Ball Hole, 4-Inch Drop, 2-Inch Rise
An adjustable one would fit a larger variety of trailers though, and one adjustable drawbar could take the place of several varying rises/drops.

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[Mike1]

If its in your budget, get one of these. There are many less expensive options that work juuuust fine, but you'll never bust your shins again with a B&W hitch. Pricey...... but I felt the need to try one and I don't regret it.
https://www.ispot.tv/ad/drYa/b-and-w-tow-and-stow-trailer-hitch-outdoor-channel-most-versatile

 

[Deleted member 1634]

If its in your budget, get one of these. There are many less expensive options that work juuuust fine, but you'll never bust your shins again with a B&W hitch. Pricey...... but I felt the need to try one and I don't regret it.
https://www.ispot.tv/ad/drYa/b-and-w-tow-and-stow-trailer-hitch-outdoor-channel-most-versatile

I understand the multi-function aspect, but I don't understand the "stow" aspect of it. Why not just take it off when not using it? That's what I do and it's not that hard to do that. Just pull the single pin, remove the bar, and put in the bed of the truck or the garage or wherever else you store it when it's not being used. Seems like more of a process to just flip it out of the way like this one.

 

[mtbikernate]

I understand the multi-function aspect, but I don't understand the "stow" aspect of it. Why not just take it off when not using it? That's what I do and it's not that hard to do that. Just pull the single pin, remove the bar, and put in the bed of the truck or the garage or wherever else you store it when it's not being used. Seems like more of a process to just flip it out of the way like this one.

I saw those, and the only reason I could see for one would be if you tow frequently enough that you want to leave it in place, yet you want to get the shin grabber out of the way. I suppose especially if you have a heavy/bulky adjustable one.

I don't tow often enough to want to leave my tow bar mounted all the time. So removing it and getting it completely out of the way is my preferred method.

 

[Mike1]

I understand the multi-function aspect, but I don't understand the "stow" aspect of it. Why not just take it off when not using it? That's what I do and it's not that hard to do that. Just pull the single pin, remove the bar, and put in the bed of the truck or the garage or wherever else you store it when it's not being used. Seems like more of a process to just flip it out of the way like this one.

It all depends on where you live, your life style and how frequently you tow things. We are all different and have different needs. A simple snatch and stow may be perfect for you!

 

[Jimmy637]

I understand the multi-function aspect, but I don't understand the "stow" aspect of it. Why not just take it off when not using it? That's what I do and it's not that hard to do that. Just pull the single pin, remove the bar, and put in the bed of the truck or the garage or wherever else you store it when it's not being used. Seems like more of a process to just flip it out of the way like this one.

I would like to add to this comment, which I fully agree with. Years ago, to best of my knowledge, we did not have two piece trailer hitches, we had solid one piece units and when the removable hitches were introduced their were many happy people (shins). Yes, why would you not simply remove it after having hurt your self to many times.

 

[Dalton Bourne]

I put this EAZ LIFT 48069 Elite Kit on my F150 and 7500-pound travel trailer. It lifted the back end of my truck about 2". I definitely notice when the anti-sway is on at highway speed. It is solidly built as it allows our pickup and camper to be attached firmly. I do not have to worry about falling off, passing a tighter turn, and how my pickup holds the camper as the sway control bar solves the problem. It has a friction bar that helps prevent squeaking sounds when making a sharp turn.

 

[Tom_C]

I only have a 5x8 trailer to tow my UTV. I have a 10" drop hitch and that's about right. 8" might be better but 10 is fine.

Here's a pic of my old trailer, 4x6', and you can see the 10" drop is still not enough for such a small trailer. My 5x8 has larger wheels/tires so with 10" drop the tongue is just slightly low in the front, but it tows fine.

 

[Floyd]

Hello all.

I've never had a vehicle with a hitch. I have the tow package on my XLT 4x4. I want to pick up a ball/hitch combo. I assume because the rear end of the 4x4 sits so high I will need to get a hitch with some "drop" in it?

What configuration do many of you use that you have found to work well for most trailering situations? I don't have my own trailer so I can't measure the tongue height when level and figure everything out that way. I plan to borrow a neighbor's light duty/single axle utility trailer on occasion and just need everything to sit level enough to get me only a few miles down the road. Not sure what the tongue weight will end up being but again it's a light weight rig overall. Hauling a yard or two of mulch.

Thanks!

Draw bar height should be determined by measuring to the top of the coupler on the trailer with the trailer sitting level. That is what the height should be to the top of the ball on the truck when unhitched on level ground.

Tongue weight from the trailer should be about 10 to 14% of the trailer weight.
Generally 10-12% with a tandem axle and 12-14% with a single axle.
J2807 rates all trailers at 10%
.
Your Ranger has a max tongue weight of 750 pounds, rated without a weight distribution hitch.
The point is ... if the trailer you choose to tow is under 4000 pounds you will surely not need a weight distribution hitch.
After you get the trailer balanced and towing well, the addition of a cheap friction sway device would be a nice addition but not necessary.

A basic 2" drop draw bar is cheap ( maybe $20 with a 2" ball)
As you get more drop the price goes up dramatically, so it is best to know what the trailer is before buying the draw bar to match.
For example , An ordinary utility trailer behind a stock Ranger might need about a 6" drop
( a good place to start)

MOST IMPORTANTLY... Be sure the ball shank(bolt size) has the capacity to match or exceed the intended load ( trailer weight)
I think the Ranger is a Class IV.
https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-accessories/trailer-balls/learn-more

Here is a nice basic video...

 

[CactusRanger88]

I'm rocking a 2" drop for my boat, and thats perfect. Boat sits level.

 

[Big Blue]

Mike

Hello all.

I've never had a vehicle with a hitch. I have the tow package on my XLT 4x4. I want to pick up a ball/hitch combo. I assume because the rear end of the 4x4 sits so high I will need to get a hitch with some "drop" in it?

What configuration do many of you use that you have found to work well for most trailering situations? I don't have my own trailer so I can't measure the tongue height when level and figure everything out that way. I plan to borrow a neighbor's light duty/single axle utility trailer on occasion and just need everything to sit level enough to get me only a few miles down the road. Not sure what the tongue weight will end up being but again it's a light weight rig overall. Hauling a yard or two of mulch.

Thanks!

Mike, as you can tell from all the reply, all very good suggestions, there is no one right answer. The problem is there is no standard hitch hight for trailers, everyone is different. The key is having the trailer as level as possible, maybe slightly nose down. Since you don't own a trailer and are currently only looking at short trips with a borrowed trailer. The best option is probably to invest the little extra money into an adjustable drop hitch. If at sometime in the future you decide to buy a utility trailer or travel trailer of your own then invest in a proper dedicated hitch. An adjustable one with both a 1-7/8 and 2 inch ball should cover anything you will come across.

My person preference for travel trailers, anything over 3000 lbs or 400 lbs tongue weight is to use a WDH with sway control. This is because that much tongue weight starts sagging the rear of the truck and taking weight off the front steering wheels. Both of which affect handling at highway speeds and windy conditions.

 

[Dalton Bourne]

I put this EAZ LIFT 48069 Elite Kit on my F150 and 7500-pound travel trailer. It lifted the back end of my truck about 2". I definitely notice when the anti-sway is on at highway speed. It is solidly built as it allows our pickup and camper to be attached firmly. I do not have to worry about falling off, passing a tighter turn, and how my pickup holds the camper as the sway control bar solves the problem. It has a friction bar that helps prevent squeaking sounds when making a sharp turn.

I highly recommend using this Travel Trailer Hitches as it functions as intended. It is easy to install and fast as the instructions on the user guide are very straightforward and easy to follow. It makes towing a camper easy as if you are not towing at all and it will ensure that we will have a smoother journey every time we use this.

 

[harringtondav]

Does anyone else find it interesting that so many full-size truck owners report that an additional 2 inches or more drop is required with their ranger to match up to the same trailer? I'll add mine too. My Ranger needs 2+ more drop over what my Ram 1500 needed. Who would have thought!?

I have Ranger FX4 package. I'm wondering if this raises the hitch a bit higher than a std suspension. (?).

 

[harringtondav]

I lucked out with the 3" drop adapter I had in our Cherokee. Our new boat trailer with 15" wheels sets almost perfectly level behind our Ranger.

The Cherokee went to our daughter. Active Drive II (low range xfer case and trail suspension). I doubt she will ever use this feature, or even know it is available.

 

[aeroshots]

I have Ranger FX4 package. I'm wondering if this raises the hitch a bit higher than a std suspension. (?).

I don't believe it would.

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