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Rear speaker wire location / colors - how to tap into for powered sub?

Tgordye

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Hi, I have a Kicker HS10 powered sub enclosure (sub and amp combined) that I received as a gift that I need to install into my 2019 Ford Ranger XLT (with large touch screen, 6 speaker system - no factory sub), super crew. I will put it behind the rear seat.

Apparently the sub can be installed tapping into the rear speaker wires, and the sub can sense signal to turn on automatically (no signal wire to radio head unit required). Still requires power to be run from the battery.

https://www.kicker.com/hideaway-hs10

I need help locating the proper speaker wires. I removed the passenger side b-pillar and located the bundle of wires that enter the rear door, but cannot figure out which ones are for the speaker. Scouring this forum for help, I found a document (DirectWire info) someone posted that describes the wires as the following, which doesn't seem to match what I see. I saw a whole bunch of posts related to sub installations, including this model, but couldn't find any information or pictures that would help me.

Left Rear Speaker (+/-) Gray/Violet - Brown/Green
Right Rear Speaker (+/-) - Green/Violet - Gray

What are the correct wires, and can I also tap into the left rear speaker wire from this same location? it looks like the wire bundle runs along the passenger side, and could loop around to the drivers side. Or do I need to also tap into the passenger side speaker from that B-pillar? Is it just easier to access behind the head unit?

Thank you!

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airline tech

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Pins 12 & 13 are speaker wires.
12 (+)
13 (-)

Edit: At both doors LR & RR - Separate

As far as trigger for sub on, IDK for sure
There are many posts on how others have wired in for sub power.

I have not ventured into that yet as I have the B&O system

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Tgordye

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Hey, thank you for this! I'm not as concerned about wiring for power as that is pretty straight forward.

Would this diagram be the same for both LR and RR?

Where did you get the diagram from?

I'll have to figure out how to tap into those wires...I guess, cut them at an accessible location or right at the plug and then connect the sub + and - wires.
 

thorn726

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Hey, thank you for this! I'm not as concerned about wiring for power as that is pretty straight forward.

Would this diagram be the same for both LR and RR?

Where did you get the diagram from?

I'll have to figure out how to tap into those wires...I guess, cut them at an accessible location or right at the plug and then connect the sub + and - wires.
you might be able to use a "wire tap" / im hoping to do similar to mine i hope my wires are the same i have a supercab. I don't want a sub but i would like to put my 6x9 boxes in back and probably cut out the door speakers but anyway here is a link to what i am talking about. might be tough to fit in there but if possible, these are an awesome way to tap in to a wire.... the photos are hard to understand but basically one wire goes "thru" the other is an end and you can tap into a wire without cutting it/ there are other smaller versions too. search "wire tap in connection" for more https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bend...-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
 

MountainGoat

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Tgordye

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awesome thanks for all your help. I picked up some wire taps and will attempt this on the weekend! The last few times I did a full audio install was on older vehicles which are just way simpler and easier to work on, readily available wiring diagrams, and 100000 people who have done the exact same thing already. Appreciate people like you all who spare the time to respond. Cheers.
 
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Tgordye

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follow-up: install was a breeze with your info. Wire taps into the rear speaker wires at the b-pillar/door sills, and ran the power wire along drivers side and through the firewall right where the hood latch goes through. 2 hours.

thanks again!
 

gryder

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Tgordye, just curious how you like the kicker sub? hows the bass? I’m thinking of purchasing the same system.
 

Fjo92

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Just a fyi. Skar brand just made a box with sub for under $300 for the 22. I used the LC2i pro to tap into the speakers. I skipped the t-taps and just removed some insulation from the wires near the pillars and spliced it that way. The t-taps suck and move around. The LC2i shuts off after 45 seconds when the vehicle is off. The only thing is it gives power to the amp every time you open the door. It gives it power for another 45 seconds after locking vehicle. When vehicle is woken up, it also turns on and off after 45 seconds.
 

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Just a fyi. Skar brand just made a box with sub for under $300 for the 22. I used the LC2i pro to tap into the speakers. I skipped the t-taps and just removed some insulation from the wires near the pillars and spliced it that way. The t-taps suck and move around. The LC2i shuts off after 45 seconds when the vehicle is off. The only thing is it gives power to the amp every time you open the door. It gives it power for another 45 seconds after locking vehicle. When vehicle is woken up, it also turns on and off after 45 seconds.
Awesome - We have another option other than the Aussie Box.

What specific Speaker Wires did you Tap?
Do you have the B&O system and just add this Sub along with the controller (LC2I) to power a additional Amp for the new Sub?

As far as the (Power-UP) issue - not really an issue as I THINK what is happening the Door Ajar circuit will partially power up the IPC-ACM-APIM and DSP for the Chime Circuit (Via HS3-Can Bus)
So, if you are tapped for power on the speakers the (LC2I) is picking it up since the (DSP-AMP) is also powering - So it's just following the leader.

I am looking at options myself for upgrading my B&O System, I hate to give up the storage space for the sub but it's really the only option unless I use a thin box sub behind the seat.
IDK - just toying with ideas.
 

Fjo92

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I don’t have the B&O. I connected to the colors mentioned above. I’m using the LC2i to power the sub. I can connect a amp for mids and highs for when I upgrade the door speakers.
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