maxbottomtime
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello all,
Not sure i have it in me to do a full build thread for this, but spent a couple hours this a.m. working through it.
I didn't want to give up the underseat storage (bungies, ratchet straps, etc.). The supercab has so little room for stowing items so didn't want to further reduce.
I tried an 8" sub enclosure, but it became clear quite quickly that was not going to work. I ended up with the following:
1. Kenwood KSC-SW11 compact powered subwoofer.
2. Scosch LOC2SL - line out converter.
Honestly, the amp takes a high-level input regularly so maybe just skipping the LoC would be the cleaner route, and i'm not sure it would result in much quality difference. I figured at least i could skip the remote, but the LoC is such low quality that the remote was a bit finicky - i may need to replace it. It's not my crimping - i think the cable is just very low strand count and the direction it routes the remote out is not intuitive. Running a remote cable would have been less work, hah. I've got it all positioned and if it cuts out at all, i'll be returning and replacing.
I thought about mounting between the two seats in the rear, but decided i really wanted it under a seat. I did end up having to remove a piece of the under seat vent funnel. With the floor liners i have, they are effectively pointing at a 2" raised wall, so not sure this has much downside - plus i can brag about an air conditioned amp.
This is my third install in my own vehicle (have done them in friends cars i guess). First car was 2x12, 1000watts RMS system. super high db sensitivity. Second was in my last car which was a single 10" DVC sub in a custom downfiring enclosure. This is obviously a huge step down from that, but i am quite happy with how integrated it is. You can't even see it when installed.
To install, I tapped into the speaker wires on each side, and ran the right side over to the left behind the carpet along the vertical face of the under-seat area. I broke a cardinal rule in audio installs, and actually tapped into Fuse (I think #29 is the one i used). This thing pulls 10amps. For anything more i certainly wouldn't, but it's plenty fine for this system. I added ground by the wire bundle on the driver side. I fished the wire under the carpet (there is an existing hole under the seat), and tucked the LoC in front. Skipping the LoC would make this much neater in front of the sub (although not visible). I wasn't planning on using the remote - i wanted to set it and forget it, but while i test reliability of the remote line i will keep it plugged in.
Finally, some velcro adhesive on the bottom of the enclosure holds it securely to the carpet.
In terms of audio quality, it is a huge improvement. I'm not sure what frequencies the stock speakers are capable of, but turning the sub from "min"/off to about mid power level really shows how much of the songs are missing.
Not sure i have it in me to do a full build thread for this, but spent a couple hours this a.m. working through it.
I didn't want to give up the underseat storage (bungies, ratchet straps, etc.). The supercab has so little room for stowing items so didn't want to further reduce.
I tried an 8" sub enclosure, but it became clear quite quickly that was not going to work. I ended up with the following:
1. Kenwood KSC-SW11 compact powered subwoofer.
2. Scosch LOC2SL - line out converter.
Honestly, the amp takes a high-level input regularly so maybe just skipping the LoC would be the cleaner route, and i'm not sure it would result in much quality difference. I figured at least i could skip the remote, but the LoC is such low quality that the remote was a bit finicky - i may need to replace it. It's not my crimping - i think the cable is just very low strand count and the direction it routes the remote out is not intuitive. Running a remote cable would have been less work, hah. I've got it all positioned and if it cuts out at all, i'll be returning and replacing.
I thought about mounting between the two seats in the rear, but decided i really wanted it under a seat. I did end up having to remove a piece of the under seat vent funnel. With the floor liners i have, they are effectively pointing at a 2" raised wall, so not sure this has much downside - plus i can brag about an air conditioned amp.
This is my third install in my own vehicle (have done them in friends cars i guess). First car was 2x12, 1000watts RMS system. super high db sensitivity. Second was in my last car which was a single 10" DVC sub in a custom downfiring enclosure. This is obviously a huge step down from that, but i am quite happy with how integrated it is. You can't even see it when installed.
To install, I tapped into the speaker wires on each side, and ran the right side over to the left behind the carpet along the vertical face of the under-seat area. I broke a cardinal rule in audio installs, and actually tapped into Fuse (I think #29 is the one i used). This thing pulls 10amps. For anything more i certainly wouldn't, but it's plenty fine for this system. I added ground by the wire bundle on the driver side. I fished the wire under the carpet (there is an existing hole under the seat), and tucked the LoC in front. Skipping the LoC would make this much neater in front of the sub (although not visible). I wasn't planning on using the remote - i wanted to set it and forget it, but while i test reliability of the remote line i will keep it plugged in.
Finally, some velcro adhesive on the bottom of the enclosure holds it securely to the carpet.
In terms of audio quality, it is a huge improvement. I'm not sure what frequencies the stock speakers are capable of, but turning the sub from "min"/off to about mid power level really shows how much of the songs are missing.
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