Noises from 2019 XLT

[enichstoosweet]

I just got a 2019 XLT with 23k miles and I have noticed two different sounds that seem unrelated.
The first one can be reproduced by putting the key in the ignition and turning it to enable the electronics without even starting the engine.
Noise 1:

The second sound can be reproduced when starting and stopping at lower speeds. It only lasts for a second at a time so it is more difficult to record.
Noise 2:

I’ve done some searching online and I suspect that the first one could be related to the cabin-ventilation's recirculation flap. The second seems to be a problem that some of these rangers have with the driveline. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Potential idea for noise 1:


Potential idea for noise 2:

https://www.cars.com/amp/articles/yeah-that-vibration-in-the-2019-ford-ranger-is-annoying-454376/

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[Bobby-C]

I just got a 2019 XLT with 23k miles and I have noticed two different sounds that seem unrelated.
The first one can be reproduced by putting the key in the ignition and turning it to enable the electronics without even starting the engine.
Noise 1:

The second sound can be reproduced when starting and stopping at lower speeds. It only lasts for a second at a time so it is more difficult to record.
Noise 2:

I’ve done some searching online and I suspect that the first one could be related to the cabin-ventilation's recirculation flap. The second seems to be a problem that some of these rangers have with the driveline. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Potential idea for noise 1:


Potential idea for noise 2:

https://www.cars.com/amp/articles/yeah-that-vibration-in-the-2019-ford-ranger-is-annoying-454376/

I have to same noise in the first video, it’s definitely electrica

I just got a 2019 XLT with 23k miles and I have noticed two different sounds that seem unrelated.
The first one can be reproduced by putting the key in the ignition and turning it to enable the electronics without even starting the engine.
Noise 1:

The second sound can be reproduced when starting and stopping at lower speeds. It only lasts for a second at a time so it is more difficult to record.
Noise 2:

I’ve done some searching online and I suspect that the first one could be related to the cabin-ventilation's recirculation flap. The second seems to be a problem that some of these rangers have with the driveline. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Potential idea for noise 1:


Potential idea for noise 2:

https://www.cars.com/amp/articles/yeah-that-vibration-in-the-2019-ford-ranger-is-annoying-454376/

I have to same noise coming from under dash, differently electrical. I only hear it after turning off ignition.

 

[airline tech]

It's the Air Inlet Door-Actuator, Most Likely
The only actuators that move (HVAC) with the Ignition Cycle are the Air Inlet and Mode.

If you remove the Glovebox and cycle the Ignition switch and look up at the inlet you will most likely see the Air Inlet door, trying to cycle.
1. Cycle (when truck is shut off) door opens to about mid position (venting the EVAP)
2. Cycle (when truck is started) door opens to fully open position

The movement noise is normal as long as you only hear it for a few seconds, moving from point to point.
If it is a constant noise, the actuator is lost and trying to find commanded position - Bad Actuator or you may possibly try opening it up and cleaning the contact wiper to see if that resolves the issue.

Ref: My Indepth thread if interested on the HVAC Ops

HVAC / Climate Control- Issues - Operation - T-Shoot and Breakdown | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[airline tech]

Here is a video of what the door actuator is doing in a failure mode, this is the sound you are possibly hearing.

How to Repair Blend Motor Actuator||Step by Step ford ranger (youtube.com)

 

[Bobby-C]

Here is a video of what the door actuator is doing in a failure mode, this is the sound you are possibly hearing.

How to Repair Blend Motor Actuator||Step by Step ford ranger (youtube.com)

I’m not sure what year ranger this video is from but my 2019 ranger lariat has no room because of a white tube with a pull string attached to it.

 

[enichstoosweet]

Thanks for the replies so far! I’m going to take it in to the dealership that I bought it from on Saturday to see what they can do. Will post updates.

 

[airline tech]

I’m not sure what year ranger this video is from but my 2019 ranger lariat has no room because of a white tube with a pull string attached to it.

This is the now deleted Glove Box - Damper, there are posts on how to disconnect it with your finger but takes a little finesse.

 

[Bobby-C]

This is the now deleted Glove Box - Damper, there are posts on how to disconnect it with your finger but takes a little finesse.

So, what I did was take the tube out, but the bracket holding the tube needs to be cut out. So, after cutting that out I just had enough room to get to the screws to take out the actuator. It was a pain in the ass. Opened up the actuator and greased it up good. Now when you take it out remember what position the flap was in. I had to keep adjusting the spline shaft to line up with flap., another pain. After all that no noise and all good.

 

[enichstoosweet]

According to the Ford dealership, the first noise is related to the plastic in the front of the car and is unrelated to any mechanical part or engine.
The second noise is related to something in the a/c that is trying to lock gears but it can’t so it just continues trying. (At least that’s what I understood)
Neither seem worrisome so I’m not going to go through with any repairs.

 

[airline tech]

According to the Ford dealership, the first noise is related to the plastic in the front of the car and is unrelated to any mechanical part or engine.
The second noise is related to something in the a/c that is trying to lock gears but it can’t so it just continues trying. (At least that’s what I understood)
Neither seem worrisome so I’m not going to go through with any repairs.

If I understand correctly, the AC is possibly low on freon, and the compressor clutch is short cycling, so your ac output will be warmer than it should.
Driving with it low on freon is not good for the compressor, (overheats it) and thus can damage the compressor, compressors right now (new) run $470.00.
I would re-consider getting it repaired (pressure switch) or leak fixed and recharged or it might be more expensive of a repair if you just ignore it.

There is a dye mixed with the freon from factory, you should be able to locate the leak with a leak detection flashlight (UV) check fittings and the schrader valves, most generally the schrader valves are the weak point and leak. The leak will show as a yellowish glow under UV light.

The Ranger uses the most expensive Freon - R1234yf, its not cheap and requires the manifold gauges equipped for it, for connection.

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