Need options for connecting a 30W 12V Solar battery charger

[moorejl57]

For the time being I need to park my truck on the street next to my house and want to use a solar battery maintainer to keep the battery charged. I want to mount the solar panel to the inside surface of the windshield, so I will need internal access to the battery.

My thoughts are:
1. Use a fuse tap to an always on fuse (29?)
2. Run wires through the firewall
3. Hard wire one of the 12V sockets to be always on

I have no experience messing with the dash and would like opinions on what you think the best option is or any other suggestions you may have. The goal is to make it easy to connect/disconnect since I drive the truck once or twice a week.

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[EJH]

For the time being I need to park my truck on the street next to my house and want to use a solar battery maintainer to keep the battery charged. I want to mount the solar panel to the inside surface of the windshield, so I will need internal access to the battery.

My thoughts are:
1. Use a fuse tap to an always on fuse (29?)
2. Run wires through the firewall
3. Hard wire one of the 12V sockets to be always on

I have no experience messing with the dash and would like opinions on what you think the best option is or any other suggestions you may have. The goal is to make it easy to connect/disconnect since I drive the truck once or twice a week.

2. Run wires through the firewall

There is an easier place to do this on the passenger side, behind and up from the glove box. You can see it from the engine bay, behind the coolant reservoir. The big rubber grommet has a small pull out tab on the lower half that you can remove to open up a small access hole in the grommet. Put some kind of quick connection on the wire from your solar panel (which I assume has a built in charge controller, right?) and you are good to go.

Here you can see my lightbar wiring going through this grommet.

 

[Fordup]

Would worry me running it like that through the BMS back feeding a fuse. Be sure your panel has a AGM battery setting controller or programmable one. I wonder if the battery tender solar model would be safer with the built in program for sulfate.

 

[moorejl57]

2. Run wires through the firewall

There is an easier place to do this on the passenger side, behind and up from the glove box. You can see it from the engine bay, behind the coolant reservoir. The big rubber grommet has a small pull out tab on the lower half that you can remove to open up a small access hole in the grommet. Put some kind of quick connection on the wire from your solar panel (which I assume has a built in charge controller, right?) and you are good to go.

Here you can see my lightbar wiring going through this grommet.

Thanks, that looks like a great option. I will take a look at the grommet you are referencing. The charger I bought is: ZOUPW 30W 12V Solar Charger and does have an AGM compatible controller on it. It comes with a cable to attach to the battery terminals, so if I can thread it through, it will be a no brainer.

 

[moorejl57]

Would worry me running it like that through the BMS back feeding a fuse. Be sure your panel has a AGM battery setting controller or programmable one. I wonder if the battery tender solar model would be safer with the built in program for sulfate.

The solar charger I bought does have a built-in AGM charge controller, but no desulfation feature. I have a NOCO Genius5 charger, but I don't want to run a power cord out to the street.

 

[Fordup]

Something like the above one or this is usually better then panels with built in controllers.
https://www.batterytender.com/products/battery-tender-solar-controller
Several manufacturers make them. That way you can get up to 45 watts that should be above the vampire draw. I would use an amp meter on to be sure of the vampire draw on your truck. Going through a BMS can affect some controllers so hard wire probably is safest.

 

[Capt Jon]

My thoughts are you may be over thinking this. I live in a marina and thus my truck sits out all the time. I am retired and drive about 2 or 3 times a week mostly short trips but I do work in one trip to get a good charge. My battery was replaced under warranty in 2020. The worst thing I have experienced is an occasional battery system reduction when starting the truck or ASS fail to work for low voltage. It has never not started but I have a jump starter in case.

 

[HeatXfer]

Thanks, that looks like a great option. I will take a look at the grommet you are referencing. The charger I bought is: ZOUPW 30W 12V Solar Charger and does have an AGM compatible controller on it. It comes with a cable to attach to the battery terminals, so if I can thread it through, it will be a no brainer.

Reviving this thread: How well is your solar charger working out? Any issues with the panel or controller?

 

[moorejl57]

Reviving this thread: How well is your solar charger working out? Any issues with the panel or controller?

Sorry for the late response. It won't be much help until the sun comes out in Oregon I have been using my Jackery battery to run the charger in the mean time.

 

[HeatXfer]

Sorry for the late response. It won't be much help until the sun comes out in Oregon I have been using my Jackery battery to run the charger in the mean time.

Ha ha, no worries. I bought the same one and checked the output. When it was sitting in the windshield it was charging the batt anywhere from .35 to .55amps. throughout the day. When I aimed it perpendicular to the sun it consistently produced 1.68amps: a +3x increase. After seeing that I started working on a lightweight portable tracking rig. I'll post it here as I progress.

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