Need help/advice on Front Half Shaft removal

Sunpilot

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Well, I was trying to install my new shocks and I, like others, inadvertently pulled the left front half shaft apart at the wheel hub. I've been following the maintenance manual to disassemble the hub and remove the half shaft so I can inspect it and fix it, but I can't get the wheel bearing assembly to slide off the half shaft splines and out of the knuckle. Has anyone replaces a half shaft yet and how did you get the shaft free from the steering knuckle? Also, once the knuckle is free, is there anything I should know about removing the half shaft from the diff? I appreciate any info I can get. If my shaft is not repairable, my dealer says there are none available in the country until at least Jan. 11th. I'm praying mine can be fixed or I have a month to wait with my Ranger up on jacks. A word od caution to anyone replacing shocks... be so very careful about removing them so you don't separate your shaft like I did. Than ks for any input you may have to offer.
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Andy

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Well, I was trying to install my new shocks and I, like others, inadvertently pulled the left front half shaft apart at the wheel hub. I've been following the maintenance manual to disassemble the hub and remove the half shaft so I can inspect it and fix it, but I can't get the wheel bearing assembly to slide off the half shaft splines and out of the knuckle. Has anyone replaces a half shaft yet and how did you get the shaft free from the steering knuckle? Also, once the knuckle is free, is there anything I should know about removing the half shaft from the diff? I appreciate any info I can get. If my shaft is not repairable, my dealer says there are none available in the country until at least Jan. 11th. I'm praying mine can be fixed or I have a month to wait with my Ranger up on jacks. A word od caution to anyone replacing shocks... be so very careful about removing them so you don't separate your shaft like I did. Than ks for any input you may have to offer.
I’ve had the front end disassembled twice now for shocks and once for a level kit. Both times the half shaft on both sides will slip out (within the boot closest to the engine) the trick is to rotate the shaft and move the spindle side to side while applying pressure towards the engine bay. You will feel the parts line up and slip back in place. Key is to not push to hard.
 
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Sunpilot

Sunpilot

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I’ve had the front end disassembled twice now for shocks and once for a level kit. Both times the half shaft on both sides will slip out (within the boot closest to the engine) the trick is to rotate the shaft and move the spindle side to side while applying pressure towards the engine bay. You will feel the parts line up and slip back in place. Key is to not push to hard.
I couldn't get mine in, but I removed the boot and saw the problem... the snap ring came off and the end of the half shaft got buggered a bit. I took a triangle file to the splines and cleaned them up. Replaced the snap ring and was able to work it back together.
 
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Sunpilot

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Here is a follow up, in case any of you run into this problem. The outer cv joint is very likely to separate and if you try to jam it back together you will probably bugger the splines on the end of the shaft. Also, the snap ring will probably fall off into the boot grease somewhere. The fix is a little bit of work, but doable.

I have to give credit to RangerB, a member here. His help was invaluable to me and I appreciate it very much. People like him make these forums the great places they are. Thanks Brandon (RangerB)

So, to fix the problem you will need to remove the caliper and rotor to gain enough room to work. Then remove the boot clamps and push the boot back towards the engine. I cleaned a ton of grease out of there so it would be easier to work on.

Next, inspect the end of the half shaft, specifically the splines. When I tried pushing it together my splines got messed up. The reason I knew this is because even without the snap ring in place the half shaft would not slide into the outer joint mechanism. I used a small triangle file and went around the whole shaft, rotating it as I went, and cleaned the splines with the file. It took some time, but I finally finished it. Before I tried with the snap ring in place I did a test fit. The shaft slid into place, so I knew the splines were good to go. I pulled it back out and put the snap ring into it's groove and worked it back together. It wasn't easy getting the ring to go into place, but I kept working a screw driver around while putting pressure on the steering knuckle. Finally the ring went into the mechanism and the axle slid into place. You will know when it is fully seated when you hear a nice ping (snap ring popping into place). What a relief. Now... go get a beer and finish your work. :)

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mursegeorge

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I’ve had the front end disassembled twice now for shocks and once for a level kit. Both times the half shaft on both sides will slip out (within the boot closest to the engine) the trick is to rotate the shaft and move the spindle side to side while applying pressure towards the engine bay. You will feel the parts line up and slip back in place. Key is to not push to hard.
This was helpful to me today. I had to do exactly what you described. I was putting in the rough country 2.5 inch leveling kit and of course once I released the upper ball joint the knuckle drops free and before you know it the cv axles has pulled out . I thought it was pretty rough of rough country to say in their instruction, " don't let the control arm drop too far down or the cv shaft may pull out". Well, the way I see it... its inevitable, that is just going to happen with all the manipulation you have to do to get that strut out, alter it and get it back in. Anyway, your post helped me deal with it all today. I only got one side done today because I ran out of time but tomorrow I'll get the other side done. I can't wait to see the truck standing a little taller.
 


mursegeorge

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Wow, Sunpilot, that was some job you had on your hands there. Good job figuring it out and getting it back together. That is some valuable info. Thankfully mine did not come apart where yours did. But I do have to do the other side tomorrow so it least I know a little more about it all after reading your post and seeing your pics. Thanks.
 

Andy

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This was helpful to me today. I had to do exactly what you described. I was putting in the rough country 2.5 inch leveling kit and of course once I released the upper ball joint the knuckle drops free and before you know it the cv axles has pulled out . I thought it was pretty rough of rough country to say in their instruction, " don't let the control arm drop too far down or the cv shaft may pull out". Well, the way I see it... its inevitable, that is just going to happen with all the manipulation you have to do to get that strut out, alter it and get it back in. Anyway, your post helped me deal with it all today. I only got one side done today because I ran out of time but tomorrow I'll get the other side done. I can't wait to see the truck standing a little taller.
Glad my experience could help you out! It is pretty much inevitable that the shaft will pull out because of how little give there is when trying to install the taller strut. Hope the other side goes smoothly for you!
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