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Wes Siler

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Is this the only application of wheel spacers that makes sense from a geometry standpoint? Narrower-than-stock tires? Seems like narrow tires brings scrub radius in, and spacers would correct it. Ran across this article bashing wheel spacers:

Our Suspension Engineer Talks About The Effects Of Wheel Spacers And Wheels With Different Offsets - The Autopian

I think you would still stress the bearings, though.
Fitting taller tires alters the scrub radius, necessitating a little more track width. You can obviously take this too far. I did the math a while back and don't have the formula handy, but one inch was the sweet spot for both scrub and keeping the tires inside the wheel well.

That Autopian article (love The Autopian) is largely referring to sports cars, not 4x4s. Some of the same principals apply to both, but not all. Hubert assumes you're keeping tire height largely the same in that piece.
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JoeyRig

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Well, now that I have my transmission pan issue mostly sorted, I couldn't help but throw one of the steelie and big tires on just to see how she looked.

Keep in mind this is with no lift, just the front end jacked up and suspension drooping.

I want to get my transmission pan 100% sorted before starting anything else, and I'm also eyeing some UCAs as suggested here.

Either way the truck looks mean with these tires. No rubbing in the rear but some serious rubbing up front on the frame.

Also not sure about all those weights, took them to a very trusted tire place to mount and balance. Might want to look into beads.

20230227_145214.jpg


20230227_145336.webp


20230227_145435.jpg
 
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JoeyRig

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Quick update:

Ordered some SPC UCAs from @HotShotOffroad who somhow managed to get them delivered overnight for FREE and with amazing customer service because I wanted to make sure they were in stock and they answered their Live Chat immeidately outside of their normal hours.

Work is sending me out of state next week so I'm hoping to get this done the week of the 20th.
 

HotShotOffroad

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Quick update:

Ordered some SPC UCAs from @HotShotOffroad who somhow managed to get them delivered overnight for FREE and with amazing customer service because I wanted to make sure they were in stock and they answered their Live Chat immeidately outside of their normal hours.

Work is sending me out of state next week so I'm hoping to get this done the week of the 20th.
thanks for the support!! Glad we were able to get you taken care of. Those control arms are one of our favorites and ones we’ve personally used multiple times on different builds. Enjoy the build! Love the set up. Send us some pics sometime and we’d love to feature you on our socials ?
 
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JoeyRig

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thanks for the support!! Glad we were able to get you taken care of. Those control arms are one of our favorites and ones we’ve personally used multiple times on different builds. Enjoy the build! Love the set up. Send us some pics sometime and we’d love to feature you on our socials ?
I actually decided on the SPC ones because of some of your other comments on here, and because of that I wanted to get them from y'all. Opened em up yesterday and I was very impressed with the quality of them.

Once I get her all buttoned up, I'll be sure to shoot over some pictures, that would be awesome.

Again thank you!

@Wes Siler not too up to speed with spacers but a quick google shows that they seem to be a huge point of contention. I was looking at some Bora spacers earlier just to make sure everything clears. Whats your opinion?

Also I think I followed you on Instagram recently, love your truck!
 


HotShotOffroad

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I actually decided on the SPC ones because of some of your other comments on here, and because of that I wanted to get them from y'all. Opened em up yesterday and I was very impressed with the quality of them.

Once I get her all buttoned up, I'll be sure to shoot over some pictures, that would be awesome.

Again thank you!

@Wes Siler not too up to speed with spacers but a quick google shows that they seem to be a huge point of contention. I was looking at some Bora spacers earlier just to make sure everything clears. Whats your opinion?

Also I think I followed you on Instagram recently, love your truck!
you won’t be disappointed. Thank you again as well!
 

Wes Siler

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I actually decided on the SPC ones because of some of your other comments on here, and because of that I wanted to get them from y'all. Opened em up yesterday and I was very impressed with the quality of them.

Once I get her all buttoned up, I'll be sure to shoot over some pictures, that would be awesome.

Again thank you!

@Wes Siler not too up to speed with spacers but a quick google shows that they seem to be a huge point of contention. I was looking at some Bora spacers earlier just to make sure everything clears. Whats your opinion?

Also I think I followed you on Instagram recently, love your truck!
By adding tire height you're altering scrub radius. You need to bring that back into alignment by spacing outwards one inch. Spacers are totally safe if properly torqued.
Stage3 sells some good ones. Lemme find a link. Add them to rear wheels too.

Don't go over an inch or you'll start messing up scrub again, and poke the tires outside the arches which will fuck your paint.

Edit: here's that link https://www.stage3motorsports.com/ffa1-10189-2x2-19-22-ranger-factionfab-10-wheelspacer-set.html
 
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JoeyRig

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Little update:

Driver's side is complete. Read here somewhere that it would be easier and lessen the risk of popping out the CV axles if you remove the lower control arm bolts to get in the new coilovers. That, in my opinion, was an absolute disaster. One of mine was cross threaded I think from the factory as it took a Snap-On air impact a good half hour at max PSI to chooch it off, while the other one came off with a rathet. Threads on both the nut and bolt were knackered. New bolt from Ford, reinstalled the lower control arms and just loosened the axle nut, pushed the axle out a bit and drooped it low enough to get the springs in, per Eibachs instruction.

Got started on the other side, went to pop off the tie rod end using a tie rod end tool and instead of popping free, the threaded portion split the long way. I gave up at that point, and will continue this week.

Side note the SPC UCAs are absolutely awesome, and I am thus far quite pleased with them.
 

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Little update:

Driver's side is complete. Read here somewhere that it would be easier and lessen the risk of popping out the CV axles if you remove the lower control arm bolts to get in the new coilovers. That, in my opinion, was an absolute disaster. One of mine was cross threaded I think from the factory as it took a Snap-On air impact a good half hour at max PSI to chooch it off, while the other one came off with a rathet. Threads on both the nut and bolt were knackered. New bolt from Ford, reinstalled the lower control arms and just loosened the axle nut, pushed the axle out a bit and drooped it low enough to get the springs in, per Eibachs instruction.

Got started on the other side, went to pop off the tie rod end using a tie rod end tool and instead of popping free, the threaded portion split the long way. I gave up at that point, and will continue this week.

Side note the SPC UCAs are absolutely awesome, and I am thus far quite pleased with them.
Uuhhhhh wut...who suggested you remove the lower control arms? Just drop the sway bar, disconnect the tie rod, remove the brakes, and knock the axle loose from the steering knuckle. Takes like an hour tops if you work slow with the right tools.
 
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JoeyRig

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Alright, finally got the lift done. The UCAs and front coilovers proved to be a much more difficult and time consuming task than expected, but once I got the first side done the other side went much easier. The rear blocks and shocks went on much easier and now the lift itself is done.

Here is a before and after:

rangero 1.jpg



I didn't touch the front springs yet just installed right out of the box, and I gained 2 inches on both sides. After replacing the UCAs and removing the lower control arms to get the stock springs out my alignment was comically bad so I limped her down to a nearby alignment shop and they were able to get it squared away.

I am super happy with the quality of the SPC UCAs and the Eibach springs and shocks. My only complaint is the new U-Bolts that came with the Eibach Blocks. I have the spacer on the passenger side to fix the lean and the U-Bolts are slightly too short. Not short enough to cause a problem I think but enough to give pause. The blocks are only temporary until I can get some real lifted leaf springs.

I wasn't able to get the spacers and 35s on as the FactionFab spacers are only 1" and the steel wheels bottom out on the stock studs instead of the spacers themselves. Any suggestions on shortening the stock studs? I was leaning towards grinding or cutting them then chasing them with a thread cleaning die and a chamfer tool, but I'm also not against just getting shorter ones and swapping them out.
 
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JoeyRig

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Sorry to keep bumping this thread, but I'm not sure if I should just start a new one.

Anyway thanks to @Ds_2020Ranger I got some measurements for the studs:

I measured the knurl at .505 and found a set of moser studs-
Wheel Studs, Press-In, 12mm x 1.5 x 2 1/2 in.
Right Hand Thread, .505 in. Knurl, Set of 10

I also found another set from Moser that are shorter at 1 1/2 in.

Still unsure if I want to totally replace all 24 Studs or just cut them short. Anyone have any recommendations before I proceed?

Thank you!
 

Wes Siler

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Trucks looking great. Don't understand the stud/spacer issue. I'm running those exact spacers and they entirely contain the studs...

Edit: I was gonna throw my summer wheels/tires on this weekend anyways. Will take photos when I do.
 

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Trucks looking great. Don't understand the stud/spacer issue. I'm running those exact spacers and they entirely contain the studs...

Edit: I was gonna throw my summer wheels/tires on this weekend anyways. Will take photos when I do.
I think the seat on the back of the steel wheels where the stud passes through is not recessed as much as the aluminum wheels.
 
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JoeyRig

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I think the seat on the back of the steel wheels where the stud passes through is not recessed as much as the aluminum wheels.
Exactly theres a tiny recess that isn't deep enough to prevent the stock studs from bottoming out.
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