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Love my Ranger but...today wouldn't start...

airline tech

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Good morning. I know it's been three years since this post, but wondering if you see this if you ever had this happen again, and what was the fix? I've had this happen multiple times when I turn the key, everything comes on, but the truck won't start (2020 XL STX) and I get the Hill Assist and Pre Collision unavailable error. It eventually will start. I've had it in twice and dealer can't see anything.
When it does this, do you hear the (Waste Gate Actuator) movement noise when you open the door?
If no, then it is the Wake Circuit not fully powering up.
if yes, then we know the PCM Power Relay is closing, and the Wake Circuit is good.

Ref: My thread on the subject

Mysterious No Start - Magically Starts Issue | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


However, you have some different symptoms, as you are getting some power by your post.
What specific are you doing to get it to start?

And when trying to start (no start) is there any noise at all?
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canyonslicker

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Hey AT,
You’re bumping on Phil status here helping people, great job and thank you. You just don’t have the back stories but that’s ok!!!
Again thanks for what you do!!! Seriously!!
 

Austidog

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When it does this, do you hear the (Waste Gate Actuator) movement noise when you open the door?
If no, then it is the Wake Circuit not fully powering up.
if yes, then we know the PCM Power Relay is closing, and the Wake Circuit is good.

Ref: My thread on the subject

Mysterious No Start - Magically Starts Issue | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


However, you have some different symptoms, as you are getting some power by your post.
What specific are you doing to get it to start?

And when trying to start (no start) is there any noise at all?
I truly appreciate the response; however, I’m afraid all this is way over my head. I’m software technical, but alas, not car techy. Again, thank you.
 

airline tech

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I truly appreciate the response; however, I’m afraid all this is way over my head. I’m software technical, but alas, not car techy. Again, thank you.
Noted: I will be genital

But I suspect the- (Run/Start) Relay is not closing and or (PATS) Passive Anti-Theft blocking the start signal.

The relay is located in the Engine Bay Fuse Box

There are multiple possibilities and without a code hard to pinpoint for sure, but my hunch is that relay, as I was looking for a possible reason for those messages and no start issue, and the one thing that stands out is for the (ABS) system to be fully powered it takes that relay to close.

Its only partially powering, thus the reason for the messages - Not Available due to the ABS module not getting the power that is needed.

The Wake Circuit Noise, I am referring to is the noise that you hear when you open the driver's door, and the dome light comes on. - that noise is the Waste Gate Actuator cycling for a self-test to ensure it is in the proper position for engine start. (High Pitched - Wine / Screeching) it is called by some members the (R2D2-Noise)

Some things to try - In a no-start condition

Try another key (spare)
Jiggle the key, when it's in the ignition switch
Rock Gear Shifter (Back and Forth) but still in park or place in Neutral
Lightly (Tap) on the Run/Start Relay, preferably with a helper holding the key in the stat position when you do it. If my hunch is correct, you may get an immediate start.

I won't bore you with details on the system, but since it's an intermittent no start condition and no codes - the above are some possible (Leads) for the path of verified fix.

This is why I asked - What specifically you are doing to get it to start, other than just keep trying by turning the key and more importantly - Is there dead silence when you attempt to start or are you getting a click.

A possible validation of my hunch, when in a no start mode, place the truck in reverse (Does the Back-Up Camera work?)

If no - then the Run / Start Relay is not closing.

Hope this helps
 
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Austidog

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Noted: I will be genital

But I suspect the- (Run/Start) Relay is not closing and or (PATS) Passive Anti-Theft blocking the start signal.

The relay is located in the Engine Bay Fuse Box

There are multiple possibilities and without a code hard to pinpoint for sure, but my hunch is that relay, as I was looking for a possible reason for those messages and no start issue, and the one thing that stands out is for the (ABS) system to be fully powered it takes that relay to close.

Its only partially powering, thus the reason for the messages - Not Available due to the ABS module not getting the power that is needed.

The Wake Circuit Noise, I am referring to is the noise that you hear when you open the driver's door, and the dome light comes on. - that noise is the Waste Gate Actuator cycling for a self-test to ensure it is in the proper position for engine start. (High Pitched - Wine / Screeching) it is called by some members the (R2D2-Noise)

Some things to try - In a no-start condition

Try another key (spare)
Jiggle the key, when it's in the ignition switch
Rock Gear Shifter (Back and Forth) but still in park or place in Neutral
Lightly (Tap) on the Run/Start Relay, preferably with a helper holding the key in the stat position when you do it. If my hunch is correct, you may get an immediate start.

I won't bore you with details on the system, but since it's an intermittent no start condition and no codes - the above are some possible (Leads) for the path of verified fix.

This is why I asked - What specifically you are doing to get it to start, other than just keep trying by turning the key and more importantly - Is there dead silence when you attempt to start or are you getting a click.

A possible validation of my hunch, when in a no start mode, place the truck in reverse (Does the Back-Up Camera work?)

If no - then the Run / Start Relay is not closing.

Hope this helps
Wow! Thank you so much! I will try this morning and follow up. You really are a great help and I appreciate you putting in lay language for me.
 


Austidog

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When I get in I close the door and turn the key, keeping my my foot off the brake. It does click. Always. This morning it did not turn the ignition on first try, so I put it in reverse (no camera), jiggled the shifter, camera came on and put it back in park and It started. Every time this happens, I get the HillAssist Unavailable message. It disappeared all winter then came back this spring. Sorry for my ignorance, but if I tell the dealer Run/Start Relay, they’ll know what this is? Thank you!
 

RangerBill

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This morning it did not turn the ignition on first try, so I put it in reverse (no camera), jiggled the shifter, camera came on and put it back in park and It started. Every time this happens, I get the HillAssist Unavailable message.

There is a transmission range (TR) sensor that may be faulty. One of its functions is to indicate if the transmission is in park or neutral to allow the engine to crank.

It would be helpful to see if there are any DTC codes stored with a code reader or using Forscan.
 
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airline tech

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Yes, now a focus point - The Shifter

For the Run / Start relay to close and to get engine start, the truck needs to verify that the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL. It appears that the Run / Start relay is good, it's just not getting a proper signal that the shifter is in PARK. (This is one of the input requirements needed) to command the relay to close.

The messages are being generated due to the fact that the BCM is seeing an engine start request, but only 1/2 of the circuit is working (powered) and at the point of (no start) the ABS & CCM, Cruise Control Module are not fully powered - The trucks reaction to this, rather than give you a specific message, it only knows that the modules are unavailable.
So, the messages are just a side effect of the no start issue and not actually part or cause of the issue.
So don't let that mislead you.


So next time it does it - No Start, instead of moving it to reverse, just jiggle the shifter with (not actually moving it) out of park. - Just push fwd or pull back (in the park detent) so do not push the shifter release button, only move the handle.
If that does not work, then do as you did previously and just physically move the shifter out of park and back to park.


If you can get it to start by doing this then this confirms a Transmisson Range (TR) Sensor is bad or a shifter cable is slightly out of adjustment. (more than likely it just needs adjusted)
 

Austidog

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Yes, now a focus point - The Shifter

For the Run / Start relay to close and to get engine start, the truck needs to verify that the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL. It appears that the Run / Start relay is good, it's just not getting a proper signal that the shifter is in PARK. (This is one of the input requirements needed) to command the relay to close.

The messages are being generated due to the fact that the BCM is seeing an engine start request, but only 1/2 of the circuit is working (powered) and at the point of (no start) the ABS & CCM, Cruise Control Module are not fully powered - The trucks reaction to this, rather than give you a specific message, it only knows that the modules are unavailable.
So, the messages are just a side effect of the no start issue and not actually part or cause of the issue.
So don't let that mislead you.


So next time it does it - No Start, instead of moving it to reverse, just jiggle the shifter with (not actually moving it) out of park. - Just push fwd or pull back (in the park detent) so do not push the shifter release button, only move the handle.
If that does not work, then do as you did previously and just physically move the shifter out of park and back to park.


If you can get it to start by doing this then this confirms a Transmisson Range (TR) Sensor is bad or a shifter cable is slightly out of adjustment. (more than likely it just needs adjusted)
I understand all this! And nice to know about the messages. Can’t thank you enough. Seriously.
 

airline tech

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Actually, depending on your 2020 Build Date, there was a recall issued for the shifter cable (locking tab) not being fully secured.

This would allow slack in the cable if not secured.

But the dealer should have caught it, if yours was included in that recall, so this is just a FYI
as it was only a 20 day window. (leap yr)

Recall.webp
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