Looking for Advice on Paying for Suspension Installation

NOON

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I am looking to purchase and have a shop install the FOX 2.0 Stage 2 Suspension Package (with UCA). I've seen it on Stage3 for $1,859.00 (before taxes + shipping).
What I am wondering is:
how much should I pay someone to have this installed and have my alignment done?

And why did I choose the FOX 2.0 Stage 2 w/ UCA? Because I've heard it maintains great daily driver characteristics, will tolerate slow trails well, and gives a lift that should allow me to put 17" wheels and 33" tires, without requiring anything like removing the built-in crash bar. And my buddy told me that upper control arms are a critical component to upgrade.
For the wheels and tires, I am still doing my research. I don't know if 18" would be better than 17".
I'm open to alternatives, but I suspect I will only be able to go anywhere off-road one weekend per month. Daily driving is still very important.
I figure I want to have the suspension, wheels, and tires installed all at once.

Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about off-road or suspension systems. I wanted to buy a truck that could get me a little bit off the grid on the weekends, so I did my research and landed a new Ranger a couple weeks ago. I can safely say that this video sold me on the idea of a Ranger with a roof-top tent, and I will be trying to build something very similar. Main difference is I think that I want to end up with a RetraxPRO XR bed cover that can then mount a Yakima Overhaul HD or Outpost HD. But then I remember that some day I want to be out of the 9 to 5 office grind, and spending insane amounts of money maybe isn't so smart???

I've been lurking and reading posts on here for about a month, but I still don't know what I should expect to pay for suspension installation by a competent shop. I am located in coastal Orange County, and would prefer to keep my business local. If anyone has any recommendations, please post or pm them.

If you've made it this far, I appreciate any and all input -- and thank you for your time!
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SafetyDan

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I did the Fox 2.0 and did not add UCA's but I am not a hard core wheeler, and am not going to upsize the tires as I like the gas mileage I am getting. Just wanted a firmer ride, better approach angle, and leveling the truck. It is fantastic and I am a former TJ owner that did heavy mods.
 

Frenchy

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I myself went with the Old Man EMU lift by ARB and for the front it is similar to the Fox kit for wheel and tire fitment. For the fox kit i figure just a few hours of labor for the install of the kit then the cost of the alignment. Depending on what the shop rates are where you live will depend on what you will pay as I have seen shop rates go from $100-$250 an hour. If you decide to change your mind and go with the Old Man EMU then expect to pay about 7 hours of labor plus an alignment. Also I will add that with the Old Man EMU I didnt need to change control arms as the factory ones do just fine on and off road.

As for tires on 17's if you want to go to a 33 just be careful on what tire you get. Chances are you will either need to get a 1/4 inch wheel spacer(not my preferred choice) or get different wheels and there is only one i have found and that is the OZ Rally Raid that has just the right offset to keep you in the green.

Hope this helps and feel free to pm if you want.
 

Brisko_Michigan

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Dealer installed I paid close to 225/hour for the FP Fox 2.0. Total bill was more than I wanted, but I also had the previous lift kit taken off (rear block) which was contentious with a few dealerships; beggars choosers.

I had an RC 2.5 UCA on it already and kept it, but a new UCA doesn’t seem necessary for what your intended use/level (its the droop from lift &/or extension in use to worry about). Over 3” and it’s likely best to upgrade.

I have +12mm offset wheels with 265/70r17 tires, and the fit is close. That’s a short 32” tire (31.6) I removed the plastic intrusion bar covers due to very modest rub at full lock in reverse (only); fixed it. Under compression at full lock it’s still likely to rub.

17 or 18? Again, looks and use. 17 = more sidewall and deflation capacity than an 18” for the same diameter set up. [I moved from an 18”wheel with 285/60r18 and 3” lift (no rub at all).]

Edit: I found this size and offset comparison tool helpful, if you’ve not seen it yet: https://tiresize.com/calculator/
 
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NOON

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Thank you all for the generous amount of information... that has been a lot to take in. I tried to get some research done last night after reading your posts and have been left with more questions than answers. This all sounds way more complicated and expensive than I had anticipated -- the nerdy side of me is stoked, and the practical side of me is ordering some lube.

I was planning on using the FOX kit I mentioned in my OP to raise the front 2.75"-3" and the back 1"
Based on what you're saying @Frenchy , 33" tires sound impractical, but 32" sounds doable. Hopefully someone can wrap things up for $700-1000 and make me ride like a King.

And @Brisko_Michigan , I'm definitely doing more research on which wheel I'd like to go with. I had no idea what offsets were, so thank you for putting a name to that concept. I think I want to find something with a slight negative offset because it looks cool and I'm thinking intuitively that it could reduce rollover risk. As far as the new UCA is concerned, what I'm learning in this thread is completely contrary to what every YouTube video (*cough* advertisement) has told me. I think my gut is telling me that the extra cost will be worth it? I can see future me doing something stupid, and needing a little bit extra cushion for the pushin'. But I don't friggin' know.

Now, back to learning for me!
 


Frenchy

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Since you are already planning on doing an overall lift instead of just a level then I would suggest going with the Old Man EMU kit. I say this because once you buy the kit you are good to go. You dont need to buy any other parts to make the kit work(doesn't mean you cant get different upper control arms if you felt like it) and the alignment can go back to spec with no problems. Also I like the Old Man EMU since the rear gets lifted with new leafs vs blocks or shackles so you get way more flexibility in the rear. Here are some pictures of my truck with the Old Man EMU kit on 265/70-17 Bridgestone Dueler Revo 3's. Hope you like the idea.

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Brisko_Michigan

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Thank you all for the generous amount of information... that has been a lot to take in. I tried to get some research done last night after reading your posts and have been left with more questions than answers. This all sounds way more complicated and expensive than I had anticipated -- the nerdy side of me is stoked, and the practical side of me is ordering some lube.

I was planning on using the FOX kit I mentioned in my OP to raise the front 2.75"-3" and the back 1"
Based on what you're saying @Frenchy , 33" tires sound impractical, but 32" sounds doable. Hopefully someone can wrap things up for $700-1000 and make me ride like a King.

And @Brisko_Michigan , I'm definitely doing more research on which wheel I'd like to go with. I had no idea what offsets were, so thank you for putting a name to that concept. I think I want to find something with a slight negative offset because it looks cool and I'm thinking intuitively that it could reduce rollover risk. As far as the new UCA is concerned, what I'm learning in this thread is completely contrary to what every YouTube video (*cough* advertisement) has told me. I think my gut is telling me that the extra cost will be worth it? I can see future me doing something stupid, and needing a little bit extra cushion for the pushin'. But I don't friggin' know.

Now, back to learning for me!
If the funds are available, coil over and UCAs are a good option. Certainly. I think you're right. (the cliche -buy once, cry once - applies). I've been happy with the Fox 2.0 set up plus after market UCAs, but it's early. There are too many good options b/t Fox, Icon, OME, and Eibach. Makes things fun.

Another item to consider if you plan to purchase after market wheels - hub size and hub centric rings (aka spigot ring). Knowing the stock hub diameter and new wheel hub bore-out diameter will help in your purchase.

Forgive if this is well known to you; I was naive to it:

The Ranger wheel hub is 93.1mm in diameter. After-market rims often have a larger hub cut out (the hole or lift/cap in the middle of the rim). E.g., 106.1mm+ bore size for a 6x139.7 lug pattern (aka 6x5.5) is a common wheel made for Tacomas and sold for other 6-lug trucks like the Ranger.

Most newer alloy after-market rims are also hub centric, meaning that they use the center hole to help align the wheel for better fit and balance; in concert with the wheel nuts (lug nuts) as the primary positioning mechanism to achieve true center.

Low tolerance for deviation from center means that small/micro errors in the wheel mounting posture may result in mild vibrations at higher speeds, which causes uneven or faster tire wear.

Per the big internet and an ASE mechanic friend, the wheel nuts (lug nuts) seem to be 90% effective in seating the wheel correctly. Many shops will use the wheel nuts only to fit a new wheel onto the truck. BUT - for a more refined fit a hub centric ring, also called a spigot ring, is beneficial if not required. The rings are plastic or aluminum alloy; they do not carry load and are intended to center the fit when placing the wheel onto the truck.

I mention because I purchased Black Rhino Attica wheels with a 112.1mm hub bore, not knowing the bore size. I knew only that it fit the truck (purchased from Stage3, with which I've experienced wonderful customer service, and sold as a wheel for the Ranger). Technically, they do. They're universal in hub bore size (meaning - bigger than needed). At 75 mph+ I've noticed a slight vibration which is likely due to lack of a hub centric ring. It may also be bad Michigan roads and E-rated tires transferring every bump into the cab.

The old wheel set was after market as well (I bought the truck with 4k miles after it was used as a dealer showroom enticement demo), and had a hub bore of 106.1. I had the new wheels/tires/suspension mounted at the same time by the dealer. I asked for the old lift/suspension and wheels/tires back after. In the box of items were four green rings - hub centric rings for "106.1 to 93.17 spacing". Enter additional highway driving recently > slight vibration > lightbulb. I think I need a 112.1mm to 93.1mm spigot ring. Issue? Hard to find (found 112 to 93.1, which I'll try knowing that .1mm may still be too much).

Another piece of the puzzle to consider, if not already. Along with offset, diameter, lift type/level vs. lift, load capacity (winch; bumper weight; RTT), looks, ride....etc. etc.
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