Looking For ACC (Switchable) Fuse Location On Lariat FX4

[RangerGuy55]

Hey -

Anyone know of (FOR SURE) or has indeed fuse tapped into a 15A or 20A switched fuse in the panel underneath the steering wheel? I have reviewed lots of conflicting information on this for both locations under the hood and in cabin. Some sources state there are none, while other sources (including Google AI), provide fuse numbers that are not ACC. I have not yet seen or know of any credible information as to a switched fuse location. Geeeesh!! Just trying to attach a 20ga. red power wire from my LED white/fog lights to a switchable source so that the LED light on the power on/off mouse is not constantly powered and illuminated.

I would greatly appreciate a reply showing the location of a switched fuse... if there is one.

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[RangerBill]

Hey -

Anyone know of (FOR SURE) or has indeed fuse tapped into a 15A or 20A switched fuse in the panel underneath the steering wheel? I have reviewed lots of conflicting information on this for both locations under the hood and in cabin. Some sources state there are none, while other sources (including Google AI), provide fuse numbers that are not ACC. I have not yet seen or know of any credible information as to a switched fuse location. Geeeesh!! Just trying to attach a 20ga. red power wire from my LED white/fog lights to a switchable source so that the LED light on the power on/off mouse is not constantly powered and illuminated.

I would greatly appreciate a reply showing the location of a switched fuse... if there is one.

F21 is hot in start or run. It is located in the BCM (body control module), the fuse box under the steering wheel.

From the 2019 shop wiring diagram:

 

[RangerBill]

Here are some more fuses that are powered in start or run.

 

[RangerGuy55]

Here are some more fuses that are powered in start or run.

Thanks for the info and diagrams. I'll check it out.

 

[airline tech]

These should be the switched power fuses in the BCM:
The (Connector - Pin #) = what the output leg of the fuse is feeding

Since you have a 2019 - These should be Valid, the confusion you are getting is that in or about 2020 all the unused fuse sources were removed and (Blank Holes) no place to actually install the fuse. example you should have Fuse #24 Installed - later production Rangers - it has been removed and no (Fusebox) contacts to install a fuse. (It's a Circuit Board)
So honestly it takes a visual check and a (Test Light or Meter) to verify as there are too many varied reports on what you actually have.

So -BJB - Fuse 1 / 13 / 14 would be good candidates - If Installed & Second Verf of SWITCHED
and BCM: Fuse 20 / 37 would be good candidates - if Installed but Second Verf of SWITCHED

 

[RangerGuy55]

These should be the switched power fuses in the BCM:
The (Connector - Pin #) = what the output leg of the fuse is feeding

Since you have a 2019 - These should be Valid, the confusion you are getting is that in or about 2020 all the unused fuse sources were removed and (Blank Holes) no place to actually install the fuse. example you should have Fuse #24 Installed - later production Rangers - it has been removed and no (Fusebox) contacts to install a fuse. (It's a Circuit Board)
So honestly it takes a visual check and a (Test Light or Meter) to verify as there are too many varied reports on what you actually have.

So -BJB - Fuse 1 / 13 / 14 would be good candidates - If Installed & Second Verf of SWITCHED
and BCM: Fuse 20 / 37 would be good candidates - if Installed but Second Verf of SWITCHED

I have looked and used a test light on fuses in the top portion of the 2-tier fuse box under the hood. My truck does have numerous (unused) blank fuse locations. Thanks for sending the info but I do not believe there is truly an ACC switch-on only fuse on the whole truck! Some of the possible fuse locations recommended are too low amperage for my set up.

 

[RangerGuy55]

I have looked and used a test light on fuses in the top portion of the 2-tier fuse box under the hood. My truck does have numerous (unused) blank fuse locations. Thanks for sending the info but I do not believe there is truly an ACC switch-on only fuse on the whole truck! Some of the possible fuse locations recommended are too low amperage for my set up.

 

[RangerBill]

I have looked and used a test light on fuses in the top portion of the 2-tier fuse box under the hood. My truck does have numerous (unused) blank fuse locations. Thanks for sending the info but I do not believe there is truly an ACC switch-on only fuse on the whole truck! Some of the possible fuse locations recommended are too low amperage for my set up.

How many amps are you looking to draw? If you tap on the power supply side of an existing fuse (as opposed to the downstream side), you won't be drawing any additional current through existing fuses.

 

[airline tech]

I have looked and used a test light on fuses in the top portion of the 2-tier fuse box under the hood. My truck does have numerous (unused) blank fuse locations. Thanks for sending the info but I do not believe there is truly an ACC switch-on only fuse on the whole truck! Some of the possible fuse locations recommended are too low amperage for my set up.

Ok, I think the Test Light is misleading you and picking up residual or phantom voltage - I forgot about that.
If you were to use a (Meter) you would see that it's not 12 volts (1-9 Volts) or so - enough to power the (Test Light) but not enough to produce a (Real Load) so if you have an actual load on the circuit (Fog Lights) the voltage you see with a test light will be pulled to (0).

Let me - Show and Prove

Using the BJB - Fuses - 1 / 13 / 14
Fuse 1 = Case type fuse and Fuse 13 & 14 = (3-Leg) fuse

Note: Leg F = Hot Battery & Leg E = Switched Power via PCM Power Relay, in order for the PCM Power Relay to close - the BCM must supply the ground - (Wake Circuit)

BJB - Fuse #1 - Incoming Power to the Relay - Comes from Leg F

BJB - Fuses 13 & 14 - Incoming Power - Is provided via Leg E

BCM - Fuse 20 & 37 - Originates via BCM (Hot Battery) Fuse 2 - 125 Amp (Leg B), This is the main power feed into the BCM - so all power from this fuse = BCM Power Controlled Output

Leg B (Above) feeds Fuse 34 - For the (BCM-Run Start Relay) - When the relay closes, power is provided to Fuse 20 & 37.
Note: As you can see here with this diagram (Fuse 20 = 7.5 Amps) however then Fuse location charts note it as a 30 Amp fuse.

So: In reality here for (non-tremor) Most Likely is wired for Fuse 19 & 20 (3-Leg) fuse 7.5 Amp and for the (Tremor-Only) Fuse 19 is 7.5 Amp and Fuse 20 is 30 Amp - They have it wired differently than the (Fuse Location Charts) show,
Plus, it is noted that this diagram & fuse location charts show fuse 37 as 15 Amp, however via Ebay pic of the Fuse Box show a 20-amp fuse in that location.

This is WHY - you must physically check what you actually have when it comes to fuses, too many variables to confirm as they differ so much.

BCM Fuse Box - Pic via Ebay - So this is most likely, what you have but fuse 37 amp could be a 15- or 20-amp fuse. (On Print it is 15-Amp) - I would have to physically check mine as well.

So, there is switched power fuses on the truck, it is just the remaining power in the circuit that is misleading when using a test light - if you were to use a meter, you would see about 9-Volts or less, and if Appling an actual load, it would drop to (0-Volts)

Now, with that covered

What is the (TOTAL) Wattage - of the Lights being installed?
If you are installing a (Switch) to power them on and off, why not just use a lower amp fuse to provide a (Trigger) for an additional relay and then (Direct) wire the Light Power to the battery, relay will still be using switched power - so if the lights are on when you turn off the truck the power would drop,
The Total Wattage is the KEY question for determining fuse size, and if using an added relay, you can use your own (wire gauge / fuse size) to match the lighting.

 

[RangerGuy55]

Wow! Lots of info to learn and digest. Thank you much. My set up is typical; nothing crazy. 2 - LED lights (4 wire) that connect to a controller and inline 15A fuse. There is red power wire connected directly to positive battery terminal, also a short antenna for remote function of lights. From controller, have 3-wire harness to mouse button on/off switch in cab. Constantly lit/powered from the truck battery. I prefer to cut the red power wire and tap it to an ACC/switchable fuse so: 1) The LED mouse light is not constantly on, 2) The power draw isn't constant (although I realize the draw on the battery is so very little). Lights are 10W.

 

[RangerGuy55]

How many amps are you looking to draw? If you tap on the power supply side of an existing fuse (as opposed to the downstream side), you won't be drawing any additional current through existing fuses.

My setup has 15A fuse / 10W

 

[RangerBill]

My setup has 15A fuse / 10W

10 watts would be about a 1 amp current draw. 15 amps is 180 watts at 12 volts.

See my diagram in post post #3 above.
You should be able to tap into one of those (upstream side of an existing fuse) with no issues.

 

[RangerGuy55]

Here are some more fuses that are powered in start or run.

OK, thanks again.

 

[ScarzRanger21(2.0)]

Hey -

Anyone know of (FOR SURE) or has indeed fuse tapped into a 15A or 20A switched fuse in the panel underneath the steering wheel? I have reviewed lots of conflicting information on this for both locations under the hood and in cabin. Some sources state there are none, while other sources (including Google AI), provide fuse numbers that are not ACC. I have not yet seen or know of any credible information as to a switched fuse location. Geeeesh!! Just trying to attach a 20ga. red power wire from my LED white/fog lights to a switchable source so that the LED light on the power on/off mouse is not constantly powered and illuminated.

I would greatly appreciate a reply showing the location of a switched fuse... if there is one.

Wouldn’t an easier solution just be to buy a switch that isn’t illuminated all the time? The toggle switches I installed for my auxiliary lights only illuminate when the switch is turned on. Not sure what type of lights or switches you’re using.

 

[RangerGuy55]

The switch I have is a mouse, push button, two tiny LED lights. On/off that shows red light when off and green light when on. The harness from control box to the mouse is 3-wire: red - power, black - ground, yellow - trigger (for strobe function). As I've stated earlier, I don't want constant power to the truck battery regardless of what kind of switch I use.

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