Infotainment Warning Message

[DanielPierre]

Yes, battery tender will do wonders. Unfortunately my Ranger is parked outside and I would need an extension cord to connect to the battery every night. However, I also own a 2014 C7 Stingray and am still using the original factory installed battery simply because from time to time I plug the battery tender to the "cigarette lighter" port in the trunk. The battery is in the trunk as well. Now I am off to see the dealership.

Sponsored

 

[dtech]

Should people really want to "save" the battery recommend following tjc's advice , mine is simple if you don't wish to use ASS just disco the BMS sensor . I ordered a Weize batt from amazon for $126 but it seems my Ranger's OEM battery is going to last longer than anticipated, so here's a shocker for the board I plan to redeploy the Ranger's batt into the wife's 2013 Hyundai (flooded lead acid) when it fails (6yrs old now) and put the new AGM into the Ranger. The harsh reality is there isn't a huge amount of difference in the charging characteristics of flooded vs agm and after 2 yrs of the bms being disconnected the only real discernible outcome has been preservation and extension of battery life.
One can collect all the empirical data but batteries aren't always predictable in their behavior and the measurements can be inconsistent and impacted by numerous variables.

 

[RMD3819]

I had this problem about a year ago. Dealer did the multi hour deep check and it passed.

I am getting the message again sporadically and dealer did the quick check with passing results:
12.5V
Rated 720CCA
Measured 552CA
Temp above 32F
State of health 76%
State of charge 72%

Somewhere in the timeline I noticed the ASS wasn’t working...but then it started a few months later so I forgot about it.

2019 Ranger with 27,500 miles.

Thoughts?

 

[DanielPierre]

I had this problem about a year ago. Dealer did the multi hour deep check and it passed.

I am getting the message again sporadically and dealer did the quick check with passing results:
12.5V
Rated 720CCA
Measured 552CA
Temp above 32F
State of health 76%
State of charge 72%

Somewhere in the timeline I noticed the ASS wasn’t working...but then it started a few months later so I forgot about it.

2019 Ranger with 27,500 miles.

Thoughts?

Boys & Girls,
thanks for all the valuable feedback on the Warning message on my Infotainment screen.
As indicated earlier, I visited Sheehy Ford in Ashland yesterday afternoon confirming my suspicion that the Battery Control Module (BCM) is more than likely not functioning correctly. The customer service rep’s response was: “having a little over 38,000 miles, I guess you are out of warranty!” Mind you folks, the Ranger was in their shop to perform a diagnostics on 11/02/2022 and 26,024 recorded miles for the exact same reason, and the verdict was, after accessing the diagnostics port and performed a scan using the FDRS to find no relevant diagnostic code(s) - now isn’t that convenient! Charged and tested the vehicles battery using the DCA-8000P tool which found the battery has recharged successfully. Further examination found the vehicle’s battery is discharged - whatever that is supposed to mean. Accessed and recharged the vehicle’s battery, performed a battery monitoring reset. Road tested the vehicle to verify repairs - wonder what repairs. The system is now operating as designed.
What a bunch of Malarkey! I’m definitely done dealing with this dealership, since there is more than this stated incidents.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

Boys & Girls,
thanks for all the valuable feedback on the Warning message on my Infotainment screen.
As indicated earlier, I visited Sheehy Ford in Ashland yesterday afternoon confirming my suspicion that the Battery Control Module (BCM) is more than likely not functioning correctly. The customer service rep’s response was: “having a little over 38,000 miles, I guess you are out of warranty!” Mind you folks, the Ranger was in their shop to perform a diagnostics on 11/02/2022 and 26,024 recorded miles for the exact same reason, and the verdict was, after accessing the diagnostics port and performed a scan using the FDRS to find no relevant diagnostic code(s) - now isn’t that convenient! Charged and tested the vehicles battery using the DCA-8000P tool which found the battery has recharged successfully. Further examination found the vehicle’s battery is discharged - whatever that is supposed to mean. Accessed and recharged the vehicle’s battery, performed a battery monitoring reset. Road tested the vehicle to verify repairs - wonder what repairs. The system is now operating as designed.
What a bunch of Malarkey! I’m definitely done dealing with this dealership, since there is more than this stated incidents.

In my opinion you have a couple of options, have you spoken to the service manager? if so and they have the same response, reach out to Ford customer service and open a ticket. Or take it to a different dealer and see what they have to say about it . . .


If it was in their shop for the same issue before warranty was up, and you are at 38K miles, there is an opportunity for Ford to do the right thing.


When I called Ford Cust service it was a bit of a headache to get things taken care of as I was asking them to take care of something ~8 months after it happened, they still worked to get me a solution I could live with. And she said if I had called right after the incident it would have been taken care of in a different manner, and fully. . . (A dealer doing warranty work on my truck with ~350 miles broke some plastics.)

 

[DanielPierre]

When my 2011 F-150 was having battery issues, the tech at the dealership said that if you leave the key in the ignition but off, it will use voltage maintaining all the electric gismos in the truck. I think she was wrong. (We live in the country at the end of a long driveway so I don't worry about someone stealing the trucks -case someone was going to make an issue of that.) Any way, I get the message about "saving the battery" on the Ranger every so often and the ASS has stopped working. I thought it was just when AC was on but now that it has cooled off, it still doesn't work. So I just ordered an ABLY battery maintainer from Amazon. (yes, I known they are made in China but so are most that I looked at before ordering.) I figured that I could keep the battery going much longer plus use it for my F-150 and Bronco Sport.

I never leave my key in the ignition or in the truck while not running. That for obvious reasons.

 

[dtech]

What a bunch of Malarkey! I’m definitely done dealing with this dealership, since there is more than this stated incidents.

The malarkey you are experiencing is a BMS system that functions well under certain driving parameters, if your vehicle use does not fall into those parameters then the outcome may be what you are currently experiencing, it's not rocket science but basic to lead acid batteries that allowing them to be in a state of discharge shortens their life expectancy, should you wish to extend the life of your current and future batteries advise you to do what I have - disco the bms.

 

[airline tech]

Boys & Girls,
thanks for all the valuable feedback on the Warning message on my Infotainment screen.
As indicated earlier, I visited Sheehy Ford in Ashland yesterday afternoon confirming my suspicion that the Battery Control Module (BCM) is more than likely not functioning correctly. The customer service rep’s response was: “having a little over 38,000 miles, I guess you are out of warranty!” Mind you folks, the Ranger was in their shop to perform a diagnostics on 11/02/2022 and 26,024 recorded miles for the exact same reason, and the verdict was, after accessing the diagnostics port and performed a scan using the FDRS to find no relevant diagnostic code(s) - now isn’t that convenient! Charged and tested the vehicles battery using the DCA-8000P tool which found the battery has recharged successfully. Further examination found the vehicle’s battery is discharged - whatever that is supposed to mean. Accessed and recharged the vehicle’s battery, performed a battery monitoring reset. Road tested the vehicle to verify repairs - wonder what repairs. The system is now operating as designed.
What a bunch of Malarkey! I’m definitely done dealing with this dealership, since there is more than this stated incidents.

To break it down: Nov 2022

First the BCM = Body Control Module
This is the main (module) that controls all functions related to interior / exterior control functions.
Lighting, TPMS, IPC, Door Locks, ASS ETc.
But it also is a feedback and monitor for the BMS = Battery Management System

Now in Nov 2022, you took it in, for Battery issues, they hooked up and found zero codes.
This shows that the Charging system and BMS is working normally, however it was noted you had a low battery charge.
They used a battery charger to get the battery back up to normal charge voltage and performed test on the battery. Test Good

Now the BMS system operates and is designed to maintain fuel economy at the best levels.
This means that the system is not like an old school system that is producing a full charge all the time. The system is controlling the output from the alternator to reduce engine load thus providing a better fuel economy.

Now what the dealer did was performed a BMS - reset. This action reset the BMS system's charging function. It basically programed the system as if a new battery was installed and to charge it as a new battery.

Now:
What is happening is the battery has a high IR and cannot take the low charge that is being produced, note this can be as low as 12.2 volts, driving daytime at a stoplight.

This is where owners who make frequent short trips have issues, the programed design of the BMS system puts fuel economy above what the battery charge level actually is and this is causing the frequent issues owners are having with door locks not working and your issue with the Sync (Message)

Your Options. (Dealer Level) this is as far that a dealer is allowed to do.

1. Replace the battery and perform a BMS reset (again) for a new battery install.
2. Verify the Charging system is working and BMS sensor is working.

Owner Options (Dealer WILL NOT) do

1. Periodically charge the battery with a battery maintainer, this will assist in keeping the battery at a better charge voltage. - I do not like this method - Labor Time

2. Install a Battery Minder - this will help keep the battery at a optimum health, hook it up and walk away - I like this method, but it requires some slight Forscan changes to be 100% effective.
I have recently installed mine and monitoring (baby steps) as to the correct SOC setting for this option to work flawlessly. (This is a battery desulphator) It is intended to lower the battery IR thus creating less resistance in the battery and enables the battery to take a charge easier.

3. SOC = State Of Charge
The BCM (Body Control Module) has a factory programed SOC of 70% or 75% (Based on year and trim level)
So, at factory set levels, the battery will be charged at a minimum of 70/75 percent SOC and the system is designed to maintain that level (minimum) however the system can and will charge above that level to 100%, It has a lot of factors though.
Outside Temp - Day/Night Drive-Length Of Drive

So, what an owner can do is use Forscan and raise the programed SOC up, now there are various proposed settings as to where the optimum setting is,
We know that the F-150 has its SOC set at 80% and we know that a AGM battery likes to be maintained above 80%
So, for the Ranger bumping the SOC to 80% or more will help with the way the battery is charged.

The unknown is what SOC is the best optimum level without overcharging the battery and this setting is currently (In-Work) by me, as I recently installed my Battery Minder, I am baby stepping my SOC up and monitoring the battery health. Started @ Factory 75%, now set to 80%
I am looking to increase my Battery Health and CCA numbers, this SOC change along with the Battery Minder, will accomplish this goal.
But since the Battery Minder (from what I understand) only triggers (works) when the charging voltage is above 13.5 volts.
Now due to the BMS, this is not a constant as depending on driving conditions (factors) Temp, Day/Night etc, the charging voltage may or may not be at that minimum level.
So, the reason for baby stepping the SOC up, is to find the perfect setting that will allow the BMS system to still function as intended (BUT) put the charging voltage above 13.5 volts allowing the Battery Minder to (work)
Not consistent but change the percentage level (time wise) the system spends below 13.5 volts vs the factory setting.
I think the right balance (setting) will ensure a longer battery life and zero issues and functions disabling plus not possibly overcharging the battery, shortening its life.

4. Disconnect the BMS sensor, this will generate a code plus it will disable the ASS (If you like that stupid function) I HATE it and am overjoyed mine was deleted from factory and If I recall you will also lose remote start.
There has been no clear and proven (thus far) results that doing this, what negative or positive effects it has on the battery itself, other than a positive outcome for owners who were having functions stop working.
So, a long-term monitor on battery health is still needed for this option.
This is why I am choosing to keep the BMS system functional and just alter and bump the minimum SOC to a higher level, keeps the system intact and just changes how it actually operates.



An example of my starting point before adding the Battery Minder.
My Goal is to get 100% Health - Higher CCA and a Lower IR reading.
This result is taken after 13 months of ownership, the readings have maintained since new.
I have zero issues with the battery or functions but want to see if I can get better results when testing.
Proactive / Preventive Maintenance
Thus, install of Battery Minder and raised SOC to 80% (Nov 4, 2023)
Will monitor monthly to see progression towards my goal.
Depending on next check (December) will leave SOC as is or bump to 85% and check again the following month.
My hunch is that 85% is the sweet spot.

What this is doing along with the Battery Minder, is setting the SOC to an optimum level per my driving habits and conditions and keeping the battery health maintained to 100% vs although good battery (result) and no noted decline in health since new 91%
Note my first test Jan 23, (4-Months) ownership resulted in similar result on Battery Health.
Hence my goal to get 100% health on every battery test, as at factory setting 75% it is staying the same and zero improvement and zero decline as well.

now

 

[MarioCart]

Baby Sitting my Battery VS Cost Effectiveness

A short study in value

New AGM Battery approximate cost -$250
My time value - $75/hr
Battery cost vs Hours - approx 3.3hrs

So if I spend more than 3 hours babysitting my battery over the approximate 3 year lifespan, basically an hour a year, or 6 minutes per week, its cheaper for me to just buy a battery every three years and stop worrying about how my battery is charging on a daily basis.

Right now, plugging into a battery maintainer every couple weeks is good value.

 

[DanielPierre]

To break it down: Nov 2022

First the BCM = Body Control Module
This is the main (module) that controls all functions related to interior / exterior control functions.
Lighting, TPMS, IPC, Door Locks, ASS ETc.
But it also is a feedback and monitor for the BMS = Battery Management System

Now in Nov 2022, you took it in, for Battery issues, they hooked up and found zero codes.
This shows that the Charging system and BMS is working normally, however it was noted you had a low battery charge.
They used a battery charger to get the battery back up to normal charge voltage and performed test on the battery. Test Good

Now the BMS system operates and is designed to maintain fuel economy at the best levels.
This means that the system is not like an old school system that is producing a full charge all the time. The system is controlling the output from the alternator to reduce engine load thus providing a better fuel economy.

Now what the dealer did was performed a BMS - reset. This action reset the BMS system's charging function. It basically programed the system as if a new battery was installed and to charge it as a new battery.

Now:
What is happening is the battery has a high IR and cannot take the low charge that is being produced, note this can be as low as 12.2 volts, driving daytime at a stoplight.

This is where owners who make frequent short trips have issues, the programed design of the BMS system puts fuel economy above what the battery charge level actually is and this is causing the frequent issues owners are having with door locks not working and your issue with the Sync (Message)

Your Options. (Dealer Level) this is as far that a dealer is allowed to do.

1. Replace the battery and perform a BMS reset (again) for a new battery install.
2. Verify the Charging system is working and BMS sensor is working.

Owner Options (Dealer WILL NOT) do

1. Periodically charge the battery with a battery maintainer, this will assist in keeping the battery at a better charge voltage. - I do not like this method - Labor Time

2. Install a Battery Minder - this will help keep the battery at a optimum health, hook it up and walk away - I like this method, but it requires some slight Forscan changes to be 100% effective.
I have recently installed mine and monitoring (baby steps) as to the correct SOC setting for this option to work flawlessly. (This is a battery desulphator) It is intended to lower the battery IR thus creating less resistance in the battery and enables the battery to take a charge easier.

3. SOC = State Of Charge
The BCM (Body Control Module) has a factory programed SOC of 70% or 75% (Based on year and trim level)
So, at factory set levels, the battery will be charged at a minimum of 70/75 percent SOC and the system is designed to maintain that level (minimum) however the system can and will charge above that level to 100%, It has a lot of factors though.
Outside Temp - Day/Night Drive-Length Of Drive

So, what an owner can do is use Forscan and raise the programed SOC up, now there are various proposed settings as to where the optimum setting is,
We know that the F-150 has its SOC set at 80% and we know that a AGM battery likes to be maintained above 80%
So, for the Ranger bumping the SOC to 80% or more will help with the way the battery is charged.

The unknown is what SOC is the best optimum level without overcharging the battery and this setting is currently (In-Work) by me, as I recently installed my Battery Minder, I am baby stepping my SOC up and monitoring the battery health. Started @ Factory 75%, now set to 80%
I am looking to increase my Battery Health and CCA numbers, this SOC change along with the Battery Minder, will accomplish this goal.
But since the Battery Minder (from what I understand) only triggers (works) when the charging voltage is above 13.5 volts.
Now due to the BMS, this is not a constant as depending on driving conditions (factors) Temp, Day/Night etc, the charging voltage may or may not be at that minimum level.
So, the reason for baby stepping the SOC up, is to find the perfect setting that will allow the BMS system to still function as intended (BUT) put the charging voltage above 13.5 volts allowing the Battery Minder to (work)
Not consistent but change the percentage level (time wise) the system spends below 13.5 volts vs the factory setting.
I think the right balance (setting) will ensure a longer battery life and zero issues and functions disabling plus not possibly overcharging the battery, shortening its life.

4. Disconnect the BMS sensor, this will generate a code plus it will disable the ASS (If you like that stupid function) I HATE it and am overjoyed mine was deleted from factory and If I recall you will also lose remote start.
There has been no clear and proven (thus far) results that doing this, what negative or positive effects it has on the battery itself, other than a positive outcome for owners who were having functions stop working.
So, a long-term monitor on battery health is still needed for this option.
This is why I am choosing to keep the BMS system functional and just alter and bump the minimum SOC to a higher level, keeps the system intact and just changes how it actually operates.



An example of my starting point before adding the Battery Minder.
My Goal is to get 100% Health - Higher CCA and a Lower IR reading.
This result is taken after 13 months of ownership, the readings have maintained since new.
I have zero issues with the battery or functions but want to see if I can get better results when testing.
Proactive / Preventive Maintenance
Thus, install of Battery Minder and raised SOC to 80% (Nov 4, 2023)
Will monitor monthly to see progression towards my goal.
Depending on next check (December) will leave SOC as is or bump to 85% and check again the following month.
My hunch is that 85% is the sweet spot.

What this is doing along with the Battery Minder, is setting the SOC to an optimum level per my driving habits and conditions and keeping the battery health maintained to 100% vs although good battery (result) and no noted decline in health since new 91%
Note my first test Jan 23, (4-Months) ownership resulted in similar result on Battery Health.
Hence my goal to get 100% health on every battery test, as at factory setting 75% it is staying the same and zero improvement and zero decline as well.

now

Hello Airline Tech. Talking about covering all aspects of battery operation and maintenance as well as the difference between the BMS and BCM is very much appreciated. And to be honest, your excellent dissertation is above my pay grade.
But let me digress, in my last write up I obviously was referring to the BCM not performing as it should. Why am I making this assumption? Very simple. Once the dealer had the opportunity to diagnose the operation and functionality of all the hardware related to the auto stop and start feature, reset all system parameters, etc. and making the determination that operation of the battery was sound, it did not take more than a couple of weeks for the auto stop start not to work once again. Also, and what is not listed in the report, is that when I picked up my truck I was informed by the service agent that I should not have connected the battery to a battery tender! Why? The other day I hooked the battery again to a tender and within less than an hour the tender confirmed a full charge. I took the truck for a 5 mile drive, stopped at various intersection and the auto stop start still would not work. Now the same service tech tells me, and makes the assumption that my battery is only working at 60% efficiency! Really? How can he make such a statement without performing an actual test. The same day, and before visiting the dealer, I had the battery tested at O’Reilly Auto Parts Store. Conclusion: my battery is fine and operating as it should.

To break it down: Nov 2022

First the BCM = Body Control Module
This is the main (module) that controls all functions related to interior / exterior control functions.
Lighting, TPMS, IPC, Door Locks, ASS ETc.
But it also is a feedback and monitor for the BMS = Battery Management System

Now in Nov 2022, you took it in, for Battery issues, they hooked up and found zero codes.
This shows that the Charging system and BMS is working normally, however it was noted you had a low battery charge.
They used a battery charger to get the battery back up to normal charge voltage and performed test on the battery. Test Good

Now the BMS system operates and is designed to maintain fuel economy at the best levels.
This means that the system is not like an old school system that is producing a full charge all the time. The system is controlling the output from the alternator to reduce engine load thus providing a better fuel economy.

Now what the dealer did was performed a BMS - reset. This action reset the BMS system's charging function. It basically programed the system as if a new battery was installed and to charge it as a new battery.

Now:
What is happening is the battery has a high IR and cannot take the low charge that is being produced, note this can be as low as 12.2 volts, driving daytime at a stoplight.

This is where owners who make frequent short trips have issues, the programed design of the BMS system puts fuel economy above what the battery charge level actually is and this is causing the frequent issues owners are having with door locks not working and your issue with the Sync (Message)

Your Options. (Dealer Level) this is as far that a dealer is allowed to do.

1. Replace the battery and perform a BMS reset (again) for a new battery install.
2. Verify the Charging system is working and BMS sensor is working.

Owner Options (Dealer WILL NOT) do

1. Periodically charge the battery with a battery maintainer, this will assist in keeping the battery at a better charge voltage. - I do not like this method - Labor Time

2. Install a Battery Minder - this will help keep the battery at a optimum health, hook it up and walk away - I like this method, but it requires some slight Forscan changes to be 100% effective.
I have recently installed mine and monitoring (baby steps) as to the correct SOC setting for this option to work flawlessly. (This is a battery desulphator) It is intended to lower the battery IR thus creating less resistance in the battery and enables the battery to take a charge easier.

3. SOC = State Of Charge
The BCM (Body Control Module) has a factory programed SOC of 70% or 75% (Based on year and trim level)
So, at factory set levels, the battery will be charged at a minimum of 70/75 percent SOC and the system is designed to maintain that level (minimum) however the system can and will charge above that level to 100%, It has a lot of factors though.
Outside Temp - Day/Night Drive-Length Of Drive

So, what an owner can do is use Forscan and raise the programed SOC up, now there are various proposed settings as to where the optimum setting is,
We know that the F-150 has its SOC set at 80% and we know that a AGM battery likes to be maintained above 80%
So, for the Ranger bumping the SOC to 80% or more will help with the way the battery is charged.

The unknown is what SOC is the best optimum level without overcharging the battery and this setting is currently (In-Work) by me, as I recently installed my Battery Minder, I am baby stepping my SOC up and monitoring the battery health. Started @ Factory 75%, now set to 80%
I am looking to increase my Battery Health and CCA numbers, this SOC change along with the Battery Minder, will accomplish this goal.
But since the Battery Minder (from what I understand) only triggers (works) when the charging voltage is above 13.5 volts.
Now due to the BMS, this is not a constant as depending on driving conditions (factors) Temp, Day/Night etc, the charging voltage may or may not be at that minimum level.
So, the reason for baby stepping the SOC up, is to find the perfect setting that will allow the BMS system to still function as intended (BUT) put the charging voltage above 13.5 volts allowing the Battery Minder to (work)
Not consistent but change the percentage level (time wise) the system spends below 13.5 volts vs the factory setting.
I think the right balance (setting) will ensure a longer battery life and zero issues and functions disabling plus not possibly overcharging the battery, shortening its life.

4. Disconnect the BMS sensor, this will generate a code plus it will disable the ASS (If you like that stupid function) I HATE it and am overjoyed mine was deleted from factory and If I recall you will also lose remote start.
There has been no clear and proven (thus far) results that doing this, what negative or positive effects it has on the battery itself, other than a positive outcome for owners who were having functions stop working.
So, a long-term monitor on battery health is still needed for this option.
This is why I am choosing to keep the BMS system functional and just alter and bump the minimum SOC to a higher level, keeps the system intact and just changes how it actually operates.



An example of my starting point before adding the Battery Minder.
My Goal is to get 100% Health - Higher CCA and a Lower IR reading.
This result is taken after 13 months of ownership, the readings have maintained since new.
I have zero issues with the battery or functions but want to see if I can get better results when testing.
Proactive / Preventive Maintenance
Thus, install of Battery Minder and raised SOC to 80% (Nov 4, 2023)
Will monitor monthly to see progression towards my goal.
Depending on next check (December) will leave SOC as is or bump to 85% and check again the following month.
My hunch is that 85% is the sweet spot.

What this is doing along with the Battery Minder, is setting the SOC to an optimum level per my driving habits and conditions and keeping the battery health maintained to 100% vs although good battery (result) and no noted decline in health since new 91%
Note my first test Jan 23, (4-Months) ownership resulted in similar result on Battery Health.
Hence my goal to get 100% health on every battery test, as at factory setting 75% it is staying the same and zero improvement and zero decline as well.

now

 

[DanielPierre]

To break it down: Nov 2022

First the BCM = Body Control Module
This is the main (module) that controls all functions related to interior / exterior control functions.
Lighting, TPMS, IPC, Door Locks, ASS ETc.
But it also is a feedback and monitor for the BMS = Battery Management System

Now in Nov 2022, you took it in, for Battery issues, they hooked up and found zero codes.
This shows that the Charging system and BMS is working normally, however it was noted you had a low battery charge.
They used a battery charger to get the battery back up to normal charge voltage and performed test on the battery. Test Good

Now the BMS system operates and is designed to maintain fuel economy at the best levels.
This means that the system is not like an old school system that is producing a full charge all the time. The system is controlling the output from the alternator to reduce engine load thus providing a better fuel economy.

Now what the dealer did was performed a BMS - reset. This action reset the BMS system's charging function. It basically programed the system as if a new battery was installed and to charge it as a new battery.

Now:
What is happening is the battery has a high IR and cannot take the low charge that is being produced, note this can be as low as 12.2 volts, driving daytime at a stoplight.

This is where owners who make frequent short trips have issues, the programed design of the BMS system puts fuel economy above what the battery charge level actually is and this is causing the frequent issues owners are having with door locks not working and your issue with the Sync (Message)

Your Options. (Dealer Level) this is as far that a dealer is allowed to do.

1. Replace the battery and perform a BMS reset (again) for a new battery install.
2. Verify the Charging system is working and BMS sensor is working.

Owner Options (Dealer WILL NOT) do

1. Periodically charge the battery with a battery maintainer, this will assist in keeping the battery at a better charge voltage. - I do not like this method - Labor Time

2. Install a Battery Minder - this will help keep the battery at a optimum health, hook it up and walk away - I like this method, but it requires some slight Forscan changes to be 100% effective.
I have recently installed mine and monitoring (baby steps) as to the correct SOC setting for this option to work flawlessly. (This is a battery desulphator) It is intended to lower the battery IR thus creating less resistance in the battery and enables the battery to take a charge easier.

3. SOC = State Of Charge
The BCM (Body Control Module) has a factory programed SOC of 70% or 75% (Based on year and trim level)
So, at factory set levels, the battery will be charged at a minimum of 70/75 percent SOC and the system is designed to maintain that level (minimum) however the system can and will charge above that level to 100%, It has a lot of factors though.
Outside Temp - Day/Night Drive-Length Of Drive

So, what an owner can do is use Forscan and raise the programed SOC up, now there are various proposed settings as to where the optimum setting is,
We know that the F-150 has its SOC set at 80% and we know that a AGM battery likes to be maintained above 80%
So, for the Ranger bumping the SOC to 80% or more will help with the way the battery is charged.

The unknown is what SOC is the best optimum level without overcharging the battery and this setting is currently (In-Work) by me, as I recently installed my Battery Minder, I am baby stepping my SOC up and monitoring the battery health. Started @ Factory 75%, now set to 80%
I am looking to increase my Battery Health and CCA numbers, this SOC change along with the Battery Minder, will accomplish this goal.
But since the Battery Minder (from what I understand) only triggers (works) when the charging voltage is above 13.5 volts.
Now due to the BMS, this is not a constant as depending on driving conditions (factors) Temp, Day/Night etc, the charging voltage may or may not be at that minimum level.
So, the reason for baby stepping the SOC up, is to find the perfect setting that will allow the BMS system to still function as intended (BUT) put the charging voltage above 13.5 volts allowing the Battery Minder to (work)
Not consistent but change the percentage level (time wise) the system spends below 13.5 volts vs the factory setting.
I think the right balance (setting) will ensure a longer battery life and zero issues and functions disabling plus not possibly overcharging the battery, shortening its life.

4. Disconnect the BMS sensor, this will generate a code plus it will disable the ASS (If you like that stupid function) I HATE it and am overjoyed mine was deleted from factory and If I recall you will also lose remote start.
There has been no clear and proven (thus far) results that doing this, what negative or positive effects it has on the battery itself, other than a positive outcome for owners who were having functions stop working.
So, a long-term monitor on battery health is still needed for this option.
This is why I am choosing to keep the BMS system functional and just alter and bump the minimum SOC to a higher level, keeps the system intact and just changes how it actually operates.



An example of my starting point before adding the Battery Minder.
My Goal is to get 100% Health - Higher CCA and a Lower IR reading.
This result is taken after 13 months of ownership, the readings have maintained since new.
I have zero issues with the battery or functions but want to see if I can get better results when testing.
Proactive / Preventive Maintenance
Thus, install of Battery Minder and raised SOC to 80% (Nov 4, 2023)
Will monitor monthly to see progression towards my goal.
Depending on next check (December) will leave SOC as is or bump to 85% and check again the following month.
My hunch is that 85% is the sweet spot.

What this is doing along with the Battery Minder, is setting the SOC to an optimum level per my driving habits and conditions and keeping the battery health maintained to 100% vs although good battery (result) and no noted decline in health since new 91%
Note my first test Jan 23, (4-Months) ownership resulted in similar result on Battery Health.
Hence my goal to get 100% health on every battery test, as at factory setting 75% it is staying the same and zero improvement and zero decline as well.

now

Hello Airline Tech. Talking about covering all aspects of battery operation and maintenance as well as the difference between the BMS and BCM is very much appreciated.
In my last write up I obviously was referring to the BCM not performing as it should. Why am I making this assumption? Very simple. Once the dealer had the opportunity to diagnose the operation and functionality of all the hardware related to the auto stop and start feature, resetting all system, etc. and making the determination that operation of the battery was sound, it did not take more than a couple of weeks for the auto stop start not to work once again. Also, and what is not listed in the report, when I picked my truck up I was informed by the service agent that I should not have connected the battery to a battery tender! Why? The other day I again hooked the battery to a tender and within less than an hour the tender confirmed a full charge. I took the truck for a 5 mile drive, stopped at various intersection and the auto stop start still would not work.

Note that I first stopped at a O’Reilly auto parts store to have the test the battery. The test confirmed that the battery was fine. After that I went to the dealer, and after some back and forth with the same service agent I worked with last year, he makes the assumption that my battery is operating at less than 60% efficiency!

To me this all sounds like a bunch of bull. Sorry.

I probably should get the same tester you use.

 

[DanielPierre]

Baby Sitting my Battery VS Cost Effectiveness

A short study in value

New AGM Battery approximate cost -$250
My time value - $75/hr
Battery cost vs Hours - approx 3.3hrs

So if I spend more than 3 hours babysitting my battery over the approximate 3 year lifespan, basically an hour a year, or 6 minutes per week, its cheaper for me to just buy a battery every three years and stop worrying about how my battery is charging on a daily basis.

Right now, plugging into a battery maintainer every couple weeks is good value.

Mario,
I appreciate what you are stating. However, I’m a principled person and when I’m being lied to, why should I compromise and jump through hoops to make things work.

 

[DanielPierre]

To break it down: Nov 2022

First the BCM = Body Control Module
This is the main (module) that controls all functions related to interior / exterior control functions.
Lighting, TPMS, IPC, Door Locks, ASS ETc.
But it also is a feedback and monitor for the BMS = Battery Management System

Now in Nov 2022, you took it in, for Battery issues, they hooked up and found zero codes.
This shows that the Charging system and BMS is working normally, however it was noted you had a low battery charge.
They used a battery charger to get the battery back up to normal charge voltage and performed test on the battery. Test Good

Now the BMS system operates and is designed to maintain fuel economy at the best levels.
This means that the system is not like an old school system that is producing a full charge all the time. The system is controlling the output from the alternator to reduce engine load thus providing a better fuel economy.

Now what the dealer did was performed a BMS - reset. This action reset the BMS system's charging function. It basically programed the system as if a new battery was installed and to charge it as a new battery.

Now:
What is happening is the battery has a high IR and cannot take the low charge that is being produced, note this can be as low as 12.2 volts, driving daytime at a stoplight.

This is where owners who make frequent short trips have issues, the programed design of the BMS system puts fuel economy above what the battery charge level actually is and this is causing the frequent issues owners are having with door locks not working and your issue with the Sync (Message)

Your Options. (Dealer Level) this is as far that a dealer is allowed to do.

1. Replace the battery and perform a BMS reset (again) for a new battery install.
2. Verify the Charging system is working and BMS sensor is working.

Owner Options (Dealer WILL NOT) do

1. Periodically charge the battery with a battery maintainer, this will assist in keeping the battery at a better charge voltage. - I do not like this method - Labor Time

2. Install a Battery Minder - this will help keep the battery at a optimum health, hook it up and walk away - I like this method, but it requires some slight Forscan changes to be 100% effective.
I have recently installed mine and monitoring (baby steps) as to the correct SOC setting for this option to work flawlessly. (This is a battery desulphator) It is intended to lower the battery IR thus creating less resistance in the battery and enables the battery to take a charge easier.

3. SOC = State Of Charge
The BCM (Body Control Module) has a factory programed SOC of 70% or 75% (Based on year and trim level)
So, at factory set levels, the battery will be charged at a minimum of 70/75 percent SOC and the system is designed to maintain that level (minimum) however the system can and will charge above that level to 100%, It has a lot of factors though.
Outside Temp - Day/Night Drive-Length Of Drive

So, what an owner can do is use Forscan and raise the programed SOC up, now there are various proposed settings as to where the optimum setting is,
We know that the F-150 has its SOC set at 80% and we know that a AGM battery likes to be maintained above 80%
So, for the Ranger bumping the SOC to 80% or more will help with the way the battery is charged.

The unknown is what SOC is the best optimum level without overcharging the battery and this setting is currently (In-Work) by me, as I recently installed my Battery Minder, I am baby stepping my SOC up and monitoring the battery health. Started @ Factory 75%, now set to 80%
I am looking to increase my Battery Health and CCA numbers, this SOC change along with the Battery Minder, will accomplish this goal.
But since the Battery Minder (from what I understand) only triggers (works) when the charging voltage is above 13.5 volts.
Now due to the BMS, this is not a constant as depending on driving conditions (factors) Temp, Day/Night etc, the charging voltage may or may not be at that minimum level.
So, the reason for baby stepping the SOC up, is to find the perfect setting that will allow the BMS system to still function as intended (BUT) put the charging voltage above 13.5 volts allowing the Battery Minder to (work)
Not consistent but change the percentage level (time wise) the system spends below 13.5 volts vs the factory setting.
I think the right balance (setting) will ensure a longer battery life and zero issues and functions disabling plus not possibly overcharging the battery, shortening its life.

4. Disconnect the BMS sensor, this will generate a code plus it will disable the ASS (If you like that stupid function) I HATE it and am overjoyed mine was deleted from factory and If I recall you will also lose remote start.
There has been no clear and proven (thus far) results that doing this, what negative or positive effects it has on the battery itself, other than a positive outcome for owners who were having functions stop working.
So, a long-term monitor on battery health is still needed for this option.
This is why I am choosing to keep the BMS system functional and just alter and bump the minimum SOC to a higher level, keeps the system intact and just changes how it actually operates.



An example of my starting point before adding the Battery Minder.
My Goal is to get 100% Health - Higher CCA and a Lower IR reading.
This result is taken after 13 months of ownership, the readings have maintained since new.
I have zero issues with the battery or functions but want to see if I can get better results when testing.
Proactive / Preventive Maintenance
Thus, install of Battery Minder and raised SOC to 80% (Nov 4, 2023)
Will monitor monthly to see progression towards my goal.
Depending on next check (December) will leave SOC as is or bump to 85% and check again the following month.
My hunch is that 85% is the sweet spot.

What this is doing along with the Battery Minder, is setting the SOC to an optimum level per my driving habits and conditions and keeping the battery health maintained to 100% vs although good battery (result) and no noted decline in health since new 91%
Note my first test Jan 23, (4-Months) ownership resulted in similar result on Battery Health.
Hence my goal to get 100% health on every battery test, as at factory setting 75% it is staying the same and zero improvement and zero decline as well.

now

Airline Tech - Do you happen to know if the Battery is a AGM Flat Plate or Spiral? Thanks in advance for your reply!

 

[MarioCart]

probably flat plate since its a big rectangle. it doesnt have the tubular structure

 

[pbethel]

It is simple. Drive 300-500 highway mile in one day. Returns all to normal. Really shouldn't be this way.

This is my town car. 10-15 miles a day. I use the van for long drives. Better for sightseeing and has a toilet.

First car in 50+ years I've had to drive a lot or use a charger or maintainer to keep the battery charged.

Ford truly dropped the ball on this one and they will never admit it.

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