How to wire a switch panel in my 2022 xlt FX4 and is it worth a shop doing it?

[airline tech]

I see. What i mean by messing up the voltage or electrical system is when i have my cobra 29 LTD classic (peaked and tuned with a wilson 5000) on and i turn on my nilight ditch lights it seems my CB get far less power to the cigarette outlet. I dent know if that is just what happens or fi my cb or the outlet is messing up. Also i do have my lights wired directly to the batterie so the can be used when the truck is off. Then my second concern with this is how much strain is it going to put on that lil alternator if i have led fogs on after market switch with the ditch lights and the 52 in curved light bat i would want to add.

I would too rather have a switch panel but i don't know how easy its going to be to wire all those accessories wires too it. Also i don't know if its gonna heavily effect the electrical system or honestly how to wire a nest of both 2 ditch lights right now and a roof light bar and some ridge fogs in the future.

Where do you have the (Neg) wire for the (Lights) connected?
Neg Terminal or (Before It- Body Ground)?

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[The_Stranger_Ranger]

Where do you have the (Neg) wire for the (Lights) connected?
Neg Terminal or (Before It- Body Ground)?

i cant remember exactly but i think it is on the battery. I'm also out at work so i cant go and look lol

 

[dozxab]

Where do you have the (Neg) wire for the (Lights) connected?
Neg Terminal or (Before It- Body Ground)?

I used a body ground. Either will work.

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

I used a body ground. Either will work.

okay i will switch it. Ford the body ground just a self tapping screw into the crash bar with the wire connected with one of the circle attachments that you crimp on?

 

[dozxab]

okay i will switch it. Ford the body ground just a self tapping screw into the crash bar with the wire connected with one of the circle attachments that you crimp on?

That will work.

 

[airline tech]

You can use the (Body Ground) point for the existing negative cable or even the ground point of the BMS sensor, I was referring to your noted issue of the CB appearing to drop power when in use with other lighting at the same time, I was thinking that possibly the location of the (Neg) connection directly on the negative terminal (if this is the case) would disallow the BMS sensor to see the load.
If is is not seeing the load, then the BMS sensor will not adjust the Alternator Output to compensate for it. (Actually, The BMS sensor is not performing the adjustment, but it is a factor for the PCM to adjust the output charging voltage of the alternator.
If you are still experiencing load issues you may be able to compensate that by upping the SOC with Forscan to get it out of the lower charging rate (Range)

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

what is a PCM or a SOC sensor and where would i fond those? Also where should i switch my ground to in your option?

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

That will work.

thanks for your help!

 

[airline tech]

what is a PCM or a SOC sensor and where would i fond those? Also where should i switch my ground to in your option?

The main point I am making is this:

The sensor that is attached to the (Neg) Terminal is the (BMS) Sensor or (Battery Management System) Sensor

This is a current sensor

For any exterior (Aftermarket) additions outside of Factory should have the (Neg) hookups on the (BMS) connection or Downstream of it - (Not a direct connection) to the Negative Post.
Reason if placed at the (Neg-Post) the sensor is unable to read the extra current draw being pulled from the battery.
So as long as you are connected to the (Top) of the BMS sensor or any (Body Ground) you are good.
If you are already hooked up to the Neg Term (Itself) then just move the connection a few inches over or if you follow the (Neg Cable) it mounts to the fender about 2 feet from the negative terminal of the battery.

This information is being sent to the (BCM-Body Control Module) which then forwards this informational data to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the (PCM) controls the alternator charging output parameters from that data.

The BCM has a (As-Built) data setting for Fuel Economy to maintain the battery (SOC-State of Charge) to a percentage of 75% some are set as 70%.

If you were to get a plug-in voltmeter on your Power-Point (where you have your CB plugged in) and take it for a drive, you will see this setting of low SOC (In-Action)
Sitting at a stoplight and watching the voltmeter you will see a voltage reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts at that stoplight and the engine running.
This would be the point where if you have extra lighting and the CB powered at the same time, where you have noted (appears the CB is being underpowered)

Ford has is set this way to improve fuel economy numbers, keep the alternator from producing output unless it is truly needed and rely heavily on the battery itself to maintain the load as much as possible.

These are the very informative threads on this very issue and ways to improve that SOC or as some have done completely disable this feature of battery management and control.



(1) Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


(1) Maximizing Battery Life | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[dozxab]

The main point I am making is this:

The sensor that is attached to the (Neg) Terminal is the (BMS) Sensor or (Battery Management System) Sensor

This is a current sensor

For any exterior (Aftermarket) additions outside of Factory should have the (Neg) hookups on the (BMS) connection or Downstream of it - (Not a direct connection) to the Negative Post.
Reason if placed at the (Neg-Post) the sensor is unable to read the extra current draw being pulled from the battery.
So as long as you are connected to the (Top) of the BMS sensor or any (Body Ground) you are good.
If you are already hooked up to the Neg Term (Itself) then just move the connection a few inches over or if you follow the (Neg Cable) it mounts to the fender about 2 feet from the negative terminal of the battery.

This information is being sent to the (BCM-Body Control Module) which then forwards this informational data to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the (PCM) controls the alternator charging output parameters from that data.

The BCM has a (As-Built) data setting for Fuel Economy to maintain the battery (SOC-State of Charge) to a percentage of 75% some are set as 70%.

If you were to get a plug-in voltmeter on your Power-Point (where you have your CB plugged in) and take it for a drive, you will see this setting of low SOC (In-Action)
Sitting at a stoplight and watching the voltmeter you will see a voltage reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts at that stoplight and the engine running.
This would be the point where if you have extra lighting and the CB powered at the same time, where you have noted (appears the CB is being underpowered)

Ford has is set this way to improve fuel economy numbers, keep the alternator from producing output unless it is truly needed and rely heavily on the battery itself to maintain the load as much as possible.

These are the very informative threads on this very issue and ways to improve that SOC or as some have done completely disable this feature of battery management and control.



(1) Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


(1) Maximizing Battery Life | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Thanks! Good info. I haven't stayed up with auto tech for the last 15 years or so since I made the switch to IT and never knew this. Whole different world now.

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

The main point I am making is this:

The sensor that is attached to the (Neg) Terminal is the (BMS) Sensor or (Battery Management System) Sensor

This is a current sensor

For any exterior (Aftermarket) additions outside of Factory should have the (Neg) hookups on the (BMS) connection or Downstream of it - (Not a direct connection) to the Negative Post.
Reason if placed at the (Neg-Post) the sensor is unable to read the extra current draw being pulled from the battery.
So as long as you are connected to the (Top) of the BMS sensor or any (Body Ground) you are good.
If you are already hooked up to the Neg Term (Itself) then just move the connection a few inches over or if you follow the (Neg Cable) it mounts to the fender about 2 feet from the negative terminal of the battery.

This information is being sent to the (BCM-Body Control Module) which then forwards this informational data to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) the (PCM) controls the alternator charging output parameters from that data.

The BCM has a (As-Built) data setting for Fuel Economy to maintain the battery (SOC-State of Charge) to a percentage of 75% some are set as 70%.

If you were to get a plug-in voltmeter on your Power-Point (where you have your CB plugged in) and take it for a drive, you will see this setting of low SOC (In-Action)
Sitting at a stoplight and watching the voltmeter you will see a voltage reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts at that stoplight and the engine running.
This would be the point where if you have extra lighting and the CB powered at the same time, where you have noted (appears the CB is being underpowered)

Ford has is set this way to improve fuel economy numbers, keep the alternator from producing output unless it is truly needed and rely heavily on the battery itself to maintain the load as much as possible.

These are the very informative threads on this very issue and ways to improve that SOC or as some have done completely disable this feature of battery management and control.



(1) Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com


(1) Maximizing Battery Life | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

perfect this is exactly what i was looking for! Thank you so much!

 

[ScarzRanger21]

So recently ish I added some nilight ditch lights to my ford ranger and have the hooked up to a switch inside that came with the kit off of amazon. I want to eventually add a roof light bar and maybe a few other smaller lights or a winch. However i wanted to know how hard it is to run a switch panel thru the dash of the ranger almost to the center console area like under the screen. I have never taken apart the dash or anything because i just poked the wire for my ditch lights thru the already existing fire wall wire boot on the drivers side with a drain snake. (nothing was damaged in the process). I was wondering if i would have to take apart the whole dash and would it be super annoying and hard to do? Bottom line is it worth possibly paying a shop like 200-300 bucks to run those wires with accessory wires so i wont have to run new wires from the switch panel to the inside of the engine bay. (As seen on the tremor accessories switches where the wires are just left in the engine bay so accessories can be easily wired to them. Anything helps thank you!

P.S this is the switch panel in question (Nilight 3 Gang Toggle Switch 12V Rocker Switch Panel with LED Light and Flip Cover Heavy-Duty ON/Off Switch Plate 3 Pin SPST，2 Years Warranty) its from amazon. If you have any recommendation on switch panels that are no bigger than 4 switches i would love to see those!

It’s not really that hard at all. When I put lights on my truck, I used the existing hole in the firewall to run the wires through and up to the switches in the dash. The hardest part, for me anyway, was deciding where I wanted the switches located.

Taking the dash apart isn’t that difficult but it’s kind of meticulous. You need to be gentle with the plastic pressure clips, don’t force anything. There’s a surprising amount of dead space behind the dash and running wires behind it is pretty simple once you pick your path. You really shouldn’t need to disassemble that much.

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

It’s not really that hard at all. When I put lights on my truck, I used the existing hole in the firewall to run the wires through and up to the switches in the dash. The hardest part, for me anyway, was deciding where I wanted the switches located.

Taking the dash apart isn’t that difficult but it’s kind of meticulous. You need to be gentle with the plastic pressure clips, don’t force anything. There’s a surprising amount of dead space behind the dash and running wires behind it is pretty simple once you pick your path. You really shouldn’t need to disassemble that much.

okay perfect that is just what i wanna hear! do you have pictures of behind the dash?

 

[airline tech]

Not precisely what you are looking for - but it will give you the general idea.

 

[The_Stranger_Ranger]

Not precisely what you are looking for - but it will give you the general idea.

thank you so much!

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