Help, so I can pull the trigger on these.

[Jms81661]

Advised to post it over here.
Just gonna ask you guys, can't find good help locally. This is what I want, what do I need,(spacers, rings) to get these Rims and tires on my Ranger asap? I don't want any poke if possible.
Got the 3 1/2" lift and Fabtechs intrusion bars on the way. 17" rims.

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[Dr. Zaius]

Those wheels have 0 offset (according to that part number) so they will stick out a bit.

Search the site here as there are many running that size tire with 17x9 zero offset rims. You can get a good idea of what it will look like.

And I highly recommend getting the hub-centric centering rings.

I had my wheels on for 5000 miles and always dealt with a steering wheel shudder when transitioning through 60-65 mph.

Finally spent the $20 (in twelve easy monthly payments!) for the set of centering rings and the shudder is basically gone.

Do it at the start.

 

[Jms81661]

Those wheels have 0 offset (according to that part number) so they will stick out a bit.

Search the site here as there are many running that size tire with 17x9 zero offset rims. You can get a good idea of what it will look like.

And I highly recommend getting the hub-centric centering rings.

I had my wheels on for 5000 miles and always dealt with a steering wheel shudder when transitioning through 60-65 mph.

Finally spent the $20 (in twelve easy monthly payments!) for the set of centering rings and the shudder is basically gone.

Do it at the start.

I just posted that pic for the look of the rims I want. I'll have to ck to see if they're available in different offsets.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

For reference, my wheels are 17x9 with a +20 offset and 265/70/17 tires and the edge of my tread lines up almost perfectly with the edge of my fenders.

Edit: Looking at the Raceline page for that wheel, it is only available in Zero offset.

 

[Jms81661]

For reference, my wheels are 17x9 with a +20 offset and 265/70/17 tires and the edge of my tread lines up almost perfectly with the edge of my fenders.

Edit: Looking at the Raceline page for that wheel, it is only available in Zero offset.

Well that sucks. I don't like the spoked rims "everyone" is selling, and I want to go chrome. I guess, I'll have to keep looking.

 

[r1ch999999]

Those tires will give you the look you want, but at the cost of ride. Someone else just posted that they're not happy with them after a few hundred miles.

 

[Jms81661]

Those tires will give you the look you want, but at the cost of ride. Someone else just posted that they're not happy with them after a few hundred miles.

Do you know where? I'm looking for sidewall strength. The Duratracs won't cut it

 

[r1ch999999]

Do you know where? I'm looking for sidewall strength. The Duratracs won't cut it

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/regretting-my-new-tires.11696/

 

[Jms81661]

Got it. Checked it out. If I stick with the C rated tires I should be good. I'm still going with them because of the amount off roading I do. Literally every week.

 

[tehschkott]

3 things.

1. If you are offroading that often you might find it valuable to find some cheaper and stronger steel rims that won't break the bank while you figure out what offset/size to pick. Funny thing, the story has always been that aluminum rims are lighter, but my aluminum Fuel Shok 666 rims weigh 29lb and cost $250/ea, and my steel rims weigh 30lb and cost $99/ea. I can get a set of 4x powder coated bronze for $200 at a professional shop. It's a direction I'm in process of flushing out now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK95YZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. Instead of 9in width, consider stepping back to 8in. Narrower rims are preferable because it's harder to dislodge the bead and at lower PSI's that's a bigger thing. Coming from bicycle world the opposite is preferable, get wider rims for better tire profile. In auto world it's opposite. Bigger forces at play. I've learned this the hard way.

3. Free unasked for advice is free and worth every penny. Apologies if I'm overstepping.

 

[tehschkott]

also for scale, I'm at +20 offset and I barely poke. This is I think the lower minimum. I bet at +25mm I wouldn't have any poke at all, it's really close. Anything lower will result in poke - hence my +20mm pictured here

the above ones you posted at 0 offset will poke further, or the most common upper max ones mounted by guys like @jakelife at -12 will poke further still.

 

[Jms81661]

3 things.

1. If you are offroading that often you might find it valuable to find some cheaper and stronger steel rims that won't break the bank while you figure out what offset/size to pick. Funny thing, the story has always been that aluminum rims are lighter, but my aluminum Fuel Shok 666 rims weigh 29lb and cost $250/ea, and my steel rims weigh 30lb and cost $99/ea. I can get a set of 4x powder coated bronze for $200 at a professional shop. It's a direction I'm in process of flushing out now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK95YZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2. Instead of 9in width, consider stepping back to 8in. Narrower rims are preferable because it's harder to dislodge the bead and at lower PSI's that's a bigger thing. Coming from bicycle world the opposite is preferable, get wider rims for better tire profile. In auto world it's opposite. Bigger forces at play. I've learned this the hard way.

3. Free unasked for advice is free and worth every penny. Apologies if I'm overstepping.

Excellent free advice. Thank you. I've put the rims on hold for now. I just can't find any I like. I guess I'm old cuz everything I like is called "retro", and any rims I do like the offset is as always 0 or -12mm or more. Screw it. Got the tires coming. Im just gonna stick with the stock rims for now.

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