Flat towing

[jro58]

We tow our 2019 behind the motorhome and have no issues. This time after we return home we notice a strange smell. It only last a short time.
Just wondering if anyone has info on this and what it may be. Transmission was recently flushed not a filter change at that time.
Our Ranger is flat towable.

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[DukeCanBuildit]

So many questions John…

Was it a burnt wire kind of smell, burnt rubber kind of smell, or burnt clutch/brake pad kind of smell?

Is it possible it was coming from the RV and not the Ranger?

Do you recall if all the lights on the Ranger were still working while plugged into the RV? Maybe a wiring issue - I saw some sketchy tow wiring on a towed Ranger recently - plenty of opportunities for shorting.

Could the parking brake have been engaged, even partially?

Was the smell present when you stopped while still connected to the RV or was it something you noticed after unhooking and driving the Ranger? Maybe a stuck calliper.

 

[jro58]

Sorry I was not very clear.
it happens after we disconnect and are driving the Ranger. We returned yesterday from a trip and had the smell a little this morning. It passed already.
it does not smell like electoral.
More like rubber type smell wierd.
Not running hot. I have wondered if maybe it the breaks.
I am just not sure.

 

[Davidjc]

Sorry I was not very clear.
it happens after we disconnect and are driving the Ranger. We returned yesterday from a trip and had the smell a little this morning. It passed already.
it does not smell like electoral.
More like rubber type smell wierd.
Not running hot. I have wondered if maybe it the breaks.
I am just not sure.

I've noticed that while disconnecting the ranger after flat towing. Only from the outside. I've used a lazer thermometer to check wheels, tires etc and never found anything hot. What I have found is a thick road film on the front that was never there after towing behind our gasser, only the new diesel pusher. Smell was never there with the gasser either.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I've noticed that while disconnecting the ranger after flat towing. Only from the outside. I've used a lazer thermometer to check wheels, tires etc and never found anything hot. What I have found is a thick road film on the front that was never there after towing behind our gasser, only the new diesel pusher. Smell was never there with the gasser either.

Your post made me think of a member from years ago.

 

[D K]

When you tow, what gear are your transmission and tx case in?

We tow our 2019 behind the motorhome and have no issues. This time after we return home we notice a strange smell. It only last a short time.
Just wondering if anyone has info on this and what it may be. Transmission was recently flushed not a filter change at that time.
Our Ranger is flat towable.

 

[Davidjc]

When you tow, what gear are your transmission and tx case in?

According to manual. All settings are electronic and both stay in neutral. Dash screens confirms neutral tow is ready when done properly. Mine is 2021 lariat 4x4.

 

[D K]

If it was my truck, and the electronics would allow it, I would keep the transmission in park and tx case in neutral, no matter what the owner's manual said.

Period.
0 discussion about it.

If you keep the trans in neutral, you have drag from the input shaft of the tx case to the output shaft of the trans and if its not in park, the hydraulic drag will cause the shafts to turn.
It is 'possible' that you are smelling the clutches and hydraulic fluid.

It would be awesome if someone could check the following:

Go through the neutral tow sequence, once everything is done, shift the trans to park. See if the truck will still roll?
Next step would be what happens if you turn off the ignition? Will it allow the tx to stay in neutral?
If the tx doesnt stay in neutral, I would see what happens when you disconnect the battery before switching off ignition.
Whatever the case, I would do my best to figure out how to shift and keep the tx in neutral with the transmission in park.

I don't care what the owner's manual says and I am not telling anyone to follow my directions.
This is what I would on my own truck, that's all.

 

[Davidjc]

If it was my truck, and the electronics would allow it, I would keep the transmission in park and tx case in neutral, no matter what the owner's manual said.

Period.
0 discussion about it.

If you keep the trans in neutral, you have drag from the input shaft of the tx case to the output shaft of the trans and if its not in park, the hydraulic drag will cause the shafts to turn.
It is 'possible' that you are smelling the clutches and hydraulic fluid.

It would be awesome if someone could check the following:

Go through the neutral tow sequence, once everything is done, shift the trans to park. See if the truck will still roll?
Next step would be what happens if you turn off the ignition? Will it allow the tx to stay in neutral?
If the tx doesnt stay in neutral, I would see what happens when you disconnect the battery before switching off ignition.
Whatever the case, I would do my best to figure out how to shift and keep the tx in neutral with the transmission in park.

I don't care what the owner's manual says and I am not telling anyone to follow my directions.
This is what I would on my own truck, that's all.

Wow. Thats the first I've seen advice to ignore the owners manual.

 

[airline tech]

The (Neutral Tow) disconnects the transmission (Output Shaft) from the transfer case so the transmission internals will not be spinning to generate any heat (smell) and no hydraulic drag.

The reasoning for placing the transmission in (Neutral) is a secondary safety, if the truck inadvertently shifts out of (Neutral Tow) and the transmission is in (Park) now you have immediate damage to the transmission - Broken Park Pawl for one and the damage would be more extreme than if the transmission is in (Neutral)
So, by leaving the transmission in (Neutral) prevents a hard lock on the driveline and still allows the transmission to spin (internally) however overheat damage is occurring as the pump is not moving fluid.

My personal issue with the whole (Neutral Tow) is that it's an (Computer Controlled) state and any voltage anomaly can abruptly change that state back to normal (2-High) without you ever knowing it happened.

My though on the subject was to get it in (Neutral Tow) and then disconnect the shift motor connector, this way electrically it cannot be commanded to move, but the circuit monitoring may drop it out of neutral tow as it will have lost the position feedback of the motor and Can Bus wise it's not in (Neutral Tow) as the position is now invalid and when you reconnect the connector after towing - may generate issues getting the truck to resync position to the shift motor.

 

[D K]

I haven't given anyone advice to ignore the owner's manual

Wow. Thats the first I've seen advice to ignore the owners manual.

 

[D K]

You said some good things, and some not so good.

First, please understand where I am coming from.
I am talking mechanics here.
Not Ford. Not Ranger. Just mechanics.

The statement that the Neutral Tow disconnects the trans out from the tx is only partially right.
It's not wrong, but it's not entirely right either.
It's true that there is no mechanical connection. We can all agree on that.
But, through hydraulic resistance, there is 'some' force that will transfer.
Let's get a tx case on a bench and see?

When I worked at AAA, I say many, many transmissions get ruined this way.

You don't need all much force to ruin the trans over many miles.

So, what needs to happen here is to figure out what the system is that switches the tx case to neutral.

If someone can help me figure out what the best way forward is - for me.

Again, I am NOT asking anyone to contradict the owner's manual for you guys that like to wear lace underwear.
I am simply saying, this is what I will do for MY truck.

Thanks.

The (Neutral Tow) disconnects the transmission (Output Shaft) from the transfer case so the transmission internals will not be spinning to generate any heat (smell) and no hydraulic drag.

The reasoning for placing the transmission in (Neutral) is a secondary safety, if the truck inadvertently shifts out of (Neutral Tow) and the transmission is in (Park) now you have immediate damage to the transmission - Broken Park Pawl for one and the damage would be more extreme than if the transmission is in (Neutral)
So, by leaving the transmission in (Neutral) prevents a hard lock on the driveline and still allows the transmission to spin (internally) however overheat damage is occurring as the pump is not moving fluid.

My personal issue with the whole (Neutral Tow) is that it's an (Computer Controlled) state and any voltage anomaly can abruptly change that state back to normal (2-High) without you ever knowing it happened.

My though on the subject was to get it in (Neutral Tow) and then disconnect the shift motor connector, this way electrically it cannot be commanded to move, but the circuit monitoring may drop it out of neutral tow as it will have lost the position feedback of the motor and Can Bus wise it's not in (Neutral Tow) as the position is now invalid and when you reconnect the connector after towing - may generate issues getting the truck to resync position to the shift motor.

 

[airline tech]

You said some good things, and some not so good.

First, please understand where I am coming from.
I am talking mechanics here.
Not Ford. Not Ranger. Just mechanics.

The statement that the Neutral Tow disconnects the trans out from the tx is only partially right.
It's not wrong, but it's not entirely right either.
It's true that there is no mechanical connection. We can all agree on that.
But, through hydraulic resistance, there is 'some' force that will transfer.
Let's get a tx case on a bench and see?

When I worked at AAA, I say many, many transmissions get ruined this way.

You don't need all much force to ruin the trans over many miles.

So, what needs to happen here is to figure out what the system is that switches the tx case to neutral.

If someone can help me figure out what the best way forward is - for me.

Again, I am NOT asking anyone to contradict the owner's manual for you guys that like to wear lace underwear.
I am simply saying, this is what I will do for MY truck.

Thanks.

It is a Can Bus data transmission via the IPC menu to move the shift motor to a hidden command position that cannot be obtained from the switch on the console the only way to get it in neutral is by the IPC selection or physically moving the shaft with the case motor removed.
The switch on the console will only command the 3 positions and it is also Can Bus data command the neutral command comes from the IPC selection, if I recall correctly the transmission must be in neutral for this to actually shift to neutral the same as 4-Low requires and I suspect that if you shift to park it may pull it out of neutral- I would have to play and verify this

 

[D K]

I would have to play and verify this

At the end of the day, isn't this why we are doing this, lol..

the only way to get it in neutral is by the IPC selection or physically moving the shaft with the case motor removed.

As we understand it currently

if I recall correctly the transmission must be in neutral for this to actually shift to neutral

which, in fact, is the million dollar question

 

[airline tech]

Ok I played - as i said - I do not flat tow and have never used this other than playing with operation

1. Key to (Accy)
2. Press Brake Pedal
3. Transmission to (Neutral)
4. Select IPC - to (Neutral Tow) - you see shift in progress and then shift complete
5. The IPC indicates (N) for transmission - even if you shift to park - this is the Can Bus control for indication (only)

If you are not set up (exactly) it will tell you, conditions not met

So, to get it in (Neutral Tow) the transmission must be in neutral (Conditions Required to be met)

From the Manual

Switching Neutral Tow On

1. Switch your vehicle to accessory mode by pressing the push button ignition switch without pressing the brake pedal or by turning the key to the on position.

2. Press and hold the brake pedal.

3. Rotate the four-wheel drive control to 2H.

4. Shift the transmission to neutral (N).

5. Using the instrument cluster controls on the steering wheel, select Settings.

6. Select Vehicle.

7. Select Neutral Tow.

8. Press and hold the OK button until a confirmation message appears in the information display.

Note: If completed successfully, the information display shows Neutral Tow Enabled Leave Transmission in Neutral. This indicates that your vehicle is safe to tow with all wheels on the ground.

Note: If you do not see a confirmation message in the instrument cluster display, you must switch your vehicle off and perform the procedure again from the beginning.

Note: You could hear noise as the transfer case shifts into its neutral position. This is normal.

9. Leave the transmission in neutral (N) and switch your vehicle off by pressing the push button ignition switch once without pressing the brake pedal or turning the key as far toward the off position.

Note: Vehicles with keys do not turn to the off position when the transmission is in neutral (N). You must leave the key in the ignition when towing. Use the keyless entry keypad or an extra set of keys to lock and unlock your vehicle.

10. Release the brake pedal.



Switching Neutral Tow Off

1. With your vehicle still properly secured to the tow vehicle, switch your vehicle to accessory mode by pressing the push button ignition switch without pressing the brake pedal or by turning
the key to the on position.

2. Press and hold the brake pedal.

3. Shift the transmission out of neutral (N) and into park (P).

Note: If completed successfully, the four-wheel drive control indicates 2H and the instrument cluster display shows Neutral Tow Disabled.
Note: If the indicator light and message do not display, you must perform the procedure again from the beginning.
Note: You could hear a noise as the transfer case shifts out of its neutral position. This is normal.

4. Apply the parking brake, then disconnect your vehicle from the tow vehicle.

5. Release the parking brake, start your vehicle, and shift into drive (D) to make sure the transfer case is out of its neutral position.



So, what actually takes it out of neutral tow (In ASSY) - while the brake is applied (input Logic)
the physical shift from (N) to (Park) (Input Logic)
This means that (reading between the lines) that it takes the complete sequence to cancel neutral tow - NORMALLY

The bottom line is that we know that electrically the T-Case motor can shift out of (Neutral Tow) on its own - as it has proven to be true and the only way to prevent it would be to either disconnect the connector (but that will lead to system faults) as position feedback will be lost the big question is - how much of a fight will it give when reconnected - to get it to reset
or
Remove the shift motor and install an adaptor plate would work as long as it fully locked the shaft from rotation, and you have it, so it's also sealed (fluid) and the motor is tied off and connector stays connected

So, unless you use a (alternate) procedure to secure or prevent the physical movement of the shift motor (commanding a shift out of neutral tow) its better or safer (Fail Safe) to leave the transmission in neutral vs park normally it (SHOUD) stay in neutral tow command its just when the truck drops voltage even briefly below minimum when the modules reboot and it has lost the neutral tow command or position feedback that the T-Case was in neutral it commands a reset to normal and it shifts to 2-Hi
So, if you were in Park and driving at HI way speeds think of what would happen to the transmission and drivetrain if it shifted out of neutral tow, this is Fords reasoning for keeping the transmission in (N) - still damaging the transmission (Yes)

For me personally, if I were to flat tow, I would not 100% TRUST the way Ford has it set up, yes most on this forum flat tow all the time without issues, but just a slight chance alone makes me cringe as you are rolling the dice of any damage occurring. It should be 100% failsafe the problem is for warranty work (in the past) posts for damage they blamed the owner for improper set-up, which it could have been, but when realizing the truck can shift out of neutral on its own brings in a
whole new outlook and that is the voltage drop and how the modules react to it.
This is where I lose my 100% trust it will stay in the commanded position

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