DIY Hillbilly II Hard, Incline Truck Bed Cover for the 2019/2020 Ford Ranger (New, enhanced designed pretty Tonneau)
DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #17
Future upgrades and additions (prioritized in order):
1. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add SealOnce "Nano Guard" preminm wood sealant only to bottom panel cover surface for wood protection from water, mold and decay. (For sealed, weather protective cover panel)
2. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add exterior Latex bonding and primers (white - top/sides/edges only). (For sealed, weather protective cover panel)
3. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add exterior Latex Sherwin William "WeatherShield" plus primer (semi gloss black - top/sides/edges only). (For sealed, weather protective cover panel + Nano)
4. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - (required due to plywood 5' width span) - add 2" x 2" ladder frame below the cover bottom using only Fuze-IT (no screws) industrial adhesive and pine furring strips for "possible" future warp control and superior panel strength.
5. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add one gas lifter/strut/gas compression spring and mounting hardware - only one is needed for this panel weight. Updated - changed to 2 gas struts.
6. Design a flap gasket or use blocking material near the front truck bed bulkhead and hinge gap area for superior water/snow/ice prevention.
7. Design and replace cross brace mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of the front bulk head, cross brace and hinge assembly) (in about ~ 30 seconds)
8. Design and replace gas strut mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of gas lifter top arm) (in about ~ 10 seconds)
9. Add a remote controlled lock/latch to open the truck bed cover and have it automatically incline up with a push of a button. <- - updated - very problematic and not feasible?
10. Add diamond aluminum 0.025" sheet metal to truck bed cover top for a fancy sleek, macho, expensive, shiny look. (wait to aluminum prices to decrease)
11. Add several flexible 100 watt solar panel(s) array(s) to the cover top since the "fixed" cover panel can now only incline. (now you can move your Ranger, for solar charging, for the best sun direction/angle)
1. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add SealOnce "Nano Guard" preminm wood sealant only to bottom panel cover surface for wood protection from water, mold and decay. (For sealed, weather protective cover panel)
2. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add exterior Latex bonding and primers (white - top/sides/edges only). (For sealed, weather protective cover panel)
3. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add exterior Latex Sherwin William "WeatherShield" plus primer (semi gloss black - top/sides/edges only). (For sealed, weather protective cover panel + Nano)
4. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - (required due to plywood 5' width span) - add 2" x 2" ladder frame below the cover bottom using only Fuze-IT (no screws) industrial adhesive and pine furring strips for "possible" future warp control and superior panel strength.
5. (Done) Upgrade from the no frills panel - add one gas lifter/strut/gas compression spring and mounting hardware - only one is needed for this panel weight. Updated - changed to 2 gas struts.
6. Design a flap gasket or use blocking material near the front truck bed bulkhead and hinge gap area for superior water/snow/ice prevention.
7. Design and replace cross brace mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of the front bulk head, cross brace and hinge assembly) (in about ~ 30 seconds)
8. Design and replace gas strut mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of gas lifter top arm) (in about ~ 10 seconds)
9. Add a remote controlled lock/latch to open the truck bed cover and have it automatically incline up with a push of a button. <- - updated - very problematic and not feasible?
10. Add diamond aluminum 0.025" sheet metal to truck bed cover top for a fancy sleek, macho, expensive, shiny look. (wait to aluminum prices to decrease)
11. Add several flexible 100 watt solar panel(s) array(s) to the cover top since the "fixed" cover panel can now only incline. (now you can move your Ranger, for solar charging, for the best sun direction/angle)
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DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #18
DIY project construction problems:
The hardest part, of this DIY project, was designing, constructing and installing the hardware for the two pivot hinges and the mounting brackets for the gas lifter plus the gas lifter angle/load/fastener simulation and testing. The hinges were custom made from A36 steel material and welded together at a local shop. They needed to be cleaned, primed and painted to prevent any rusting.
Thread Galling per Bolt Depot …
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Thread-galling.aspx
What is Thread Galling?
Thread galling occurs during installation when pressure and friction cause bolt threads to seize to the threads of a nut or tapped hole. It is also known as "cold welding". < --- I had to use an angle grinder to cut the bolts and nuts off - this happened several times in this project. What a pain @#$%$#?
What Bolts Are Susceptible To Galling?
Galling is most often seen in stainless steel (especially when using nylon lock nuts) <---- These parts are what I used in this project for rust prevention and vibration!
Using an anti-seize lubricant can be very effective in preventing galling.
Project Disclaimer: This DIY truck bed cover project is a "work in progress" and needs further testing especially the gas lifter mechanical mechanism. You cannot/should not physically compress the gas lifter by yourself due to safety concerns. Securing the gas lifter(s) to the Ranger's truck bed rails was/is/still very problematic but keep in mind there is the 53 pound truck bed plywood cover the gas lifter(s) are supporting and any mishaps, due to operator/user injury is NOT my fault! Please use your common sense and keep your arms, hands and body parts away from any extended/inclined truck bed cover for safety.
The hardest part, of this DIY project, was designing, constructing and installing the hardware for the two pivot hinges and the mounting brackets for the gas lifter plus the gas lifter angle/load/fastener simulation and testing. The hinges were custom made from A36 steel material and welded together at a local shop. They needed to be cleaned, primed and painted to prevent any rusting.
Thread Galling per Bolt Depot …
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Thread-galling.aspx
What is Thread Galling?
Thread galling occurs during installation when pressure and friction cause bolt threads to seize to the threads of a nut or tapped hole. It is also known as "cold welding". < --- I had to use an angle grinder to cut the bolts and nuts off - this happened several times in this project. What a pain @#$%$#?
What Bolts Are Susceptible To Galling?
Galling is most often seen in stainless steel (especially when using nylon lock nuts) <---- These parts are what I used in this project for rust prevention and vibration!
Using an anti-seize lubricant can be very effective in preventing galling.
Project Disclaimer: This DIY truck bed cover project is a "work in progress" and needs further testing especially the gas lifter mechanical mechanism. You cannot/should not physically compress the gas lifter by yourself due to safety concerns. Securing the gas lifter(s) to the Ranger's truck bed rails was/is/still very problematic but keep in mind there is the 53 pound truck bed plywood cover the gas lifter(s) are supporting and any mishaps, due to operator/user injury is NOT my fault! Please use your common sense and keep your arms, hands and body parts away from any extended/inclined truck bed cover for safety.
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James Martincic
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I think everyone on this forum is very disciplined and don’t want kicked off.
DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #21
I have a policy that anything added to my new Ford Ranger there will be no drilling and machining on the Ranger. That being said, I added only one gas lifter (two is much better but I wanted to keep one as a spare) to the truck bed rails was a totally bone head, insane design decision plus there are no convenient mounting holes to use from Ford for the gas lifters. Twisting of the mounting hardware clamps for the gas lifter on the truck "flimsy" bed rails created a safety hazard. I set out again to redesigned the gas lifter mounting hardware. See pictures (below). If the new mounting hardware, for the gas lifters can last for over 100 cycles and not fall off then it's Miller time.
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DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #24
Added two Polyurethane suspension bump stops, to keep the gas lifter mounting hardware from twisting. Keep in mind, that one gas strut is being used to hold 53 pounds spanning 5 feet wide. Using two gas lifters would have been better. Updated - changed to using two gas lifters (not one) Back to the junkyard for more aluminum angle materials for the extra gas strut.
The pic below is the bottom of the gas lifter mounting hardware with the bump stops.
The pic below is the bottom of the gas lifter mounting hardware with the bump stops.
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jsphlynch
Well-Known Member
Wish I had known that 5'-wide plywood was a thing.
How's it attached to the bulkhead? I've got a design going for a hard tri-fold cover, but it would require a similar attachment point.
How's it attached to the bulkhead? I've got a design going for a hard tri-fold cover, but it would require a similar attachment point.
DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #28
I found the 5' wide plywood sheathing "by accident" by going to Menards.
Two 3/8" 18-8 SS hex bolts/nylon nuts were used. I used a pressure treated 2 x 4 so the bolt length is
~ 2 3/4" for easy fastener (nuts) and bulk head attachment. See all the above pictures.
A trifold with 3 seams will leak. My single piece cover design had zero leaks - so far.
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DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #29
Future upgrades and additions for the incline truck bed cover (prioritized in order):
#8. Design and replace gas strut mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of gas lifter top arms (in about ~ 10 seconds)
Since having two common "universal" gas struts (I now have two gas struts instead of one for the incline truck bed cover) releasing both gas strut arms takes time with two wrenches. I was going to design and "weld up" a toolless design but I found a better "off the shelf" solution. The universal gas struts, I bought, have a fixed ball/socket arm strut ends (non removeable) that has mountings studs/nuts on each end for the support brackets. Unscrewing the ball/socket end from one end of the gas strut and adding a "spring loaded 10 mm ball socket" to each strut end will solve my problem. In addition, you have to add/install a separate 10 mm balls with mounting studs/nuts to the mounting brackets. In the end, I now have two easy, toolless, removeable gas strut arms. Having the ability to separate both gas strut arms makes it very convenient to add odd shaped and large cargo like mulch to the truck bed without having a fixed incline angle on the truck bed cover. Also, it aids in quick and easy complete truck bed cover removal. Please note - stating the obvious: Warning - to remove both gas strut arms you need to allow the cover to extend in the incline, "non-compressed" state. Only then, you can release both gas strut arms BUT you need to brace the cover (use a 2 x 4) or else the 50 pound cover will fall on you - have the EMS on your smartphone ready for medical help.
Parts - for ref. only - shop around:
You need only two.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPQF85P/coliid=I871MTFZKHU0N&colid=1PBJDNYJ1AIY&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
You need only two - not four - edit/updated new link - again
https://www.amazon.com/Beneges-Hard...VHC19AXZYSKN&refRID=8ZFBPHWVVHC19AXZYSKN&th=1
You need two
https://www.amazon.com/ARANA-Universal-Supports-Spring-Cabinet/dp/B07K8DLPK2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F8U1M0T0GJ49&dchild=1&keywords=arana+gas+struts&qid=1584285550&s=automotive&sprefix=gas+strut+arana,automotive,182&sr=1-2
#8. Design and replace gas strut mounting hardware with universal 3/8" clevis pins with hairpins for quick, toolless removal of gas lifter top arms (in about ~ 10 seconds)
Since having two common "universal" gas struts (I now have two gas struts instead of one for the incline truck bed cover) releasing both gas strut arms takes time with two wrenches. I was going to design and "weld up" a toolless design but I found a better "off the shelf" solution. The universal gas struts, I bought, have a fixed ball/socket arm strut ends (non removeable) that has mountings studs/nuts on each end for the support brackets. Unscrewing the ball/socket end from one end of the gas strut and adding a "spring loaded 10 mm ball socket" to each strut end will solve my problem. In addition, you have to add/install a separate 10 mm balls with mounting studs/nuts to the mounting brackets. In the end, I now have two easy, toolless, removeable gas strut arms. Having the ability to separate both gas strut arms makes it very convenient to add odd shaped and large cargo like mulch to the truck bed without having a fixed incline angle on the truck bed cover. Also, it aids in quick and easy complete truck bed cover removal. Please note - stating the obvious: Warning - to remove both gas strut arms you need to allow the cover to extend in the incline, "non-compressed" state. Only then, you can release both gas strut arms BUT you need to brace the cover (use a 2 x 4) or else the 50 pound cover will fall on you - have the EMS on your smartphone ready for medical help.
Parts - for ref. only - shop around:
You need only two.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPQF85P/coliid=I871MTFZKHU0N&colid=1PBJDNYJ1AIY&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
You need only two - not four - edit/updated new link - again
https://www.amazon.com/Beneges-Hard...VHC19AXZYSKN&refRID=8ZFBPHWVVHC19AXZYSKN&th=1
You need two
https://www.amazon.com/ARANA-Universal-Supports-Spring-Cabinet/dp/B07K8DLPK2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F8U1M0T0GJ49&dchild=1&keywords=arana+gas+struts&qid=1584285550&s=automotive&sprefix=gas+strut+arana,automotive,182&sr=1-2
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DIYAndy
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #30
Incline Truck Bed Cover Construction Tips/Hints/Suggestions
The required bottom ladder frame supports the top truck bed cover and adds strength to keep it from warping and bending. Keep the ladder frame away from both truck bed rail edges by at least 3/4" or you will have trouble installing the gas struts/lifters hardware to the truck cover. Since the distance between truck bed vinyl rail to rail ~ 55 3/4" then the ladder frame maximum width should be less than 54 1/4" and centered between both rails on the plywood panel bottom. If not, get out mister hammer and chisel and chop away for hours.
The required bottom ladder frame supports the top truck bed cover and adds strength to keep it from warping and bending. Keep the ladder frame away from both truck bed rail edges by at least 3/4" or you will have trouble installing the gas struts/lifters hardware to the truck cover. Since the distance between truck bed vinyl rail to rail ~ 55 3/4" then the ladder frame maximum width should be less than 54 1/4" and centered between both rails on the plywood panel bottom. If not, get out mister hammer and chisel and chop away for hours.
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