*Click/Tone* Every 45 Seconds

[Scott D]

2020 Ranger Supercab STX, built in September 2020.

You know the sound you'll usually hear from under the hood when you open the driver's side door? I'm guessing it's the fuel pump priming itself.

My Ranger gets around 1,200 miles a year on it and I keep a battery minder on it.

I could walk into the garage in the middle of the night and hear the *Click/Tone* happen and wondered if the truck knew I was there. lol.

I could be eating breakfast at the dinette table that is next to the garage and would hear *Click/Tone* once in a while.

Then recently I noticed the display on the battery minder was indicating that it wasn't keeping the battery fully charged. That's when I discovered the *Click/Tone* was happening every 45 seconds. So I pulled the negative cable off of the battery.

I looked through the last 10 pages of this section and didn't see any similar posts. Has anyone seen this before? I would like to have an idea before I hand the truck over to the dealership.

I have a short video of the sound it's making, but I imagine we've all heard it before. If I need to upload it, just let me know.

Thanks for reading.

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[airline tech]

If the sounds you are hearing are exactly the same as opening the drivers door then it is the Wake-Up circuit.
The main noise is the Waste Gate Actuator- self checking and moving to a engine start position, the other noise which you can barely hear is the Low Pressure fuel pump (in-tank) priming for about 5 to 10 seconds.

The noise occurring every 45 seconds can is an indication of Ford Pass constantly checking for truck status or a bad door ajar switch sensing the door is being opened -or another issue with the Wake Circuit.
The door ajar wake circuit ties into the upper dome light, if the light triggers on - so is the wake circuit

 

[Scott D]

If the sounds you are hearing are exactly the same as opening the drivers door then it is the Wake-Up circuit.
The main noise is the Waste Gate Actuator- self checking and moving to a engine start position, the other noise which you can barely hear is the Low Pressure fuel pump (in-tank) priming for about 5 to 10 seconds.

The noise occurring every 45 seconds can is an indication of Ford Pass constantly checking for truck status or a bad door ajar switch sensing the door is being opened -or another issue with the Wake Circuit.
The door ajar wake circuit ties into the upper dome light, if the light triggers on - so is the wake circuit

Holy mackerel, if that's what is causing it, I would happily uninstall the Fordpass app. I don't even use it to begin with.

Big, big thanks for the lead. ? I'm wondering if uninstalling the app will be enough to solve it. Maybe I need to delete the Fordpass account before the uninstall, if that is possible.

Edit to add: I'm wondering if it's doing it because the hood is always open when it's sitting in the garage and on the charger. I know it puts a "hood ajar" alert on the dash screen when it's open and the truck is running.

I chose the "Remove Vehicle" option and I'll find out tomorrow if that solves it. If it does, I'll uninstall the app, as well.

 

[airline tech]

Holy mackerel, if that's what is causing it, I would happily uninstall the Fordpass app. I don't even use it to begin with.

Big, big thanks for the lead. ? I'm wondering if uninstalling the app will be enough to solve it. Maybe I need to delete the Fordpass account before the uninstall, if that is possible.

Edit to add: I'm wondering if it's doing it because the hood is always open when it's sitting in the garage and on the charger. I know it puts a "hood ajar" alert on the dash screen when it's open and the truck is running.

I chose the "Remove Vehicle" option and I'll find out tomorrow if that solves it. If it does, I'll uninstall the app, as well.

If it is the Ford Pass, you can see last update on the App, when the App is open you can slightly pull down on the page to refresh it.
this may possibly show if it is stuck on trying to communicate to the truck

 

[Scott D]

Just an update. I put the battery cable back on and it's still doing the click/tone thing.

I drove it to the hardware store to get a new hot water heater for the house earlier this week and I listened to it in the parking lot, trying to hear it do the click/tone thing, but I wasn't hearing it.

I left the cable on when I got back home and unloaded the hot water heater later in the afternoon. I stood there and listened and there were no click/tone until I got in the back of the truck to slide the hot water heater back to the tailgate. Did shaking the truck make it start doing it again? :|

I drove it to another hardware store closer to the house the next day and I left the cable on, same as before. I checked on it later and it was in full click/tone mode every 45 seconds, doing its darndest to kill the battery.

I don't get it. The salesman set up the Fordpass app the day I picked it up back in 2020 and maybe removing the truck from the app wasn't the correct way to do it.

I wonder if removing the positive cable would force a reset or something. It looks it would be a nightmare to attempt it.

I really, really don't want to take it to the dealership.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Gremlins Scott. I think it’s your Ranger telling you to take it out for a drive. I kid but I hope you get this figured out. ?

 

[airline tech]

Just to confirm the noise you are hearing.

Is this the noise? Video Below

If yes - Then this is the Wastegate Actuator cycling to a engine start position, self-check.
This is powered from the Wake Circuit.
The Wake Circuit is triggered from a few ways.

1. Opening of the Driver's Door, triggering the Courtesy Lights circuit, this trigger also provides the Wake Signal to the PCM

2. Key / PB - Cycle also triggers the Wake Circuit

3. If engine is off and you press the Brake Pedal, triggers the Wake Circuit

4. TCU - The TCU - Receives a Communication Update request from Ford Pass, its looking for current location and truck status. (This is periodic timed events and automatic)
This Wake request from the TCU can also be a Remote Start - Request.
So, you have 2 scenarios for the TCU to trigger the Wake Circuit.

5. Remote start from the FOB, triggers the Wake Circuit using the RTM (Radio Transceiver Module)

Wake Circuit - Simplified Explanation

The Wake Circuit, is a Pre Engine Start event that preps the PCM for an intended engine start and the main thing that happens here is the PCM Power Relay - Closes to power the primary circuit, the PCM Power Relay closing is what is powering the LP Fuel Pump (in tank) on for a few seconds to purge any vapor out of the fuel line going to the HP Fuel Pump and it also provides the power to the Wastegate Actuator - At Wake it power cycles for a self-check of operation.

The only factor that does not meet your description is the Time Cycle (45-Seconds)

Normal Ops of the Wake Circuit is the PCM Power Relay will Time Out and Open at (3-Minutes)
Thereby, shutting off the Wake Circuit if a Engine Start has not been performed.

Note I stated (Normal Ops), if this the noise you are hearing, and you can physically see the Wastegate Actuator cycling (as viewed from the Passenger Side wheel well)
Then we can confirm that something is array and triggering the Wake Circuit, out of normal operation.


Isolation steps:

1. Does Ford Pass App - (Vehicle Tab) Show a constant update status?
Look at the top of the screen, it shows last update (Time)
If on that page and you touch the top half of the screen and pull down and release, you can generate a communication update from the App to the Truck (Force the Wake Circuit - On)
The Ford Pass App, communicates to the TCU, the TCU powers up via (Wake Circuit) and provides the Health Status from the truck modules via the TCU
If you can confirm that the Ford Pass or TCU is in constant - Wake Cycle, then Pull the TCU Fuse #9 at the BCM (Interior fuse box)
This is a 3-legged fuse, powering the TCU & Anti-Theft Alarm Horn (more on this below)

2. If you scan the system, do you get any fault codes?

3. When you open and close the doors, does the courtesy lights operate normally (on / off) and do you get the Door Ajar message in the IPC and message goes away when the doors are closed.

4. Check the Brake Lights for operation, do they go on and off normally with brake pedal input

5. Possible bad FOB, sticking buttons or bad PCB trying to remote start the truck.
Pull the battery out of it, to see if that resolves the issue.

6. Using the IPC menu screen, try deselecting the Remote Start (System Off)

Note: The 3-Leged Fuse (BCM Fuse 8 & 9)
I recently became aware of this (3-Legged) fuse shared power feed, as all the wiring diagrams do not reflect or show this detail, however if you actually view the fuse box, you can see it.

The BCM / Fuse Box receives main power feed from the BJB Fuse 2 (125-Amp), some of the fused circuits are wired to share a common power source - so the middle leg is always hot power for both circuits, which brings us to a possible noise that you may be hearing that some owners have experienced, and it is a whistling noise (like a very weak horn)
This is a mystery noise that some owners are getting, that I thought was a possibility of it being the Anti-Theft horn being partially powered.

Thanks to TJC and his quest to disable the TCU, and noting that the fuse 8 & 9, tie together the circuit. He pulled the 3-Legged fuse and installed a regular fuse in spot 8, so the TCU is disabled.
This noted confirmation tells me I am possibly on the right track as the source of the noise, but the question is why and how the power is bleeding over (and how is the Anti-Theft Alarm horn relay be triggered to close to enable the horn)

For a location reference: The Anti-Theft Alarm Horn is located in the Driver's Fender area, near the battery.

I am certain but not yet confirmed that the noise in the second video is the Ford Pass App, powering the Wake Circuit and the Anti-Theft Alarm (Relay-Horn) is partially powering to trigger
When it should not be triggering.
This event happens rather quickly in succession, this may be what you are experiencing.

This video is taken as the Driver's Door is opened - Normal Wake Noise of the Waste Gate Actuator

Or is this the sound you are hearing (Link Below)

Strange beeping from engine bay (youtube.com)

Ref: This related thread on this noise

(1) Engine noise coming from a shutoff engine | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

If either of these videos do not match what you are hearing, please post a short clip

I am certain the noise is being triggered by the Wake Circuit, it's just down to what specific on that circuit is triggering it to power.

Hope this info helps isolate it for you.

 

[TJC]

He could also temporarily pull the plug on the modem in the passenger well to isolate Ford Pass (and the modem) and keep FordPass Cloud infrastructure from contacting the truck. If the sound stays it isn't FordPass interrogation at play.

It is a 3 minute effort to pull the plug and then reinstall it. No need to even mess with the Glovebox either. Simply look up just above the passenger foot well. It's a white socket that faces towards the passenger at the base of the modem. It is obvious once you take a peek. There is no other component that big to confuse it with in that area.

it will throw a "Failure to Communicate to modem" DTC.

As a precaution, I'd also pull the battery ground before plugging the connector back into the modem.

 

[airline tech]

Just an update. I put the battery cable back on and it's still doing the click/tone thing.

I drove it to the hardware store to get a new hot water heater for the house earlier this week and I listened to it in the parking lot, trying to hear it do the click/tone thing, but I wasn't hearing it.

I left the cable on when I got back home and unloaded the hot water heater later in the afternoon. I stood there and listened and there were no click/tone until I got in the back of the truck to slide the hot water heater back to the tailgate. Did shaking the truck make it start doing it again? :|

I drove it to another hardware store closer to the house the next day and I left the cable on, same as before. I checked on it later and it was in full click/tone mode every 45 seconds, doing its darndest to kill the battery.

I don't get it. The salesman set up the Fordpass app the day I picked it up back in 2020 and maybe removing the truck from the app wasn't the correct way to do it.

I wonder if removing the positive cable would force a reset or something. It looks it would be a nightmare to attempt it.

I really, really don't want to take it to the dealership.

Question, by attention to detail
But it depends on whether you have the (remote unlock) feature on the Tailgate.

If Yes - Was the Truck Locked and did you use the FOB to unlock it?
and
Was the Hood Opened for the Batt Minder?

This question ties into the noise from the second video - Security Horn

 

[TJC]

I have the remote locking tailgate, but I have never seen the hood open warning when I have left the hood up when charging my 2020 XLT Sport truck. In fact the hood is up right now and my Battery Minder 8amp charger is doing its thing. The truck was not locked. Under what normal conditions would the hood warning activate?

I just stepped out to the garage to see if I could see if there was a switch on the latch on the lower passenger side. Too much plastic to tell, but I did see a very round robust cable down there. I doubt that it was for a 2 conductor cable though. I did see the latch release cable which comes in from the drivers side.

Maybe it is an option my truck does not have.

 

[airline tech]

I have the remote locking tailgate, but I have never seen the hood open warning when I have left the hood up when charging my 2020 XLT Sport truck. In fact the hood is up right now and my Battery Minder 8amp charger is doing its thing. The truck was not locked. Under what normal conditions would the hood warning activate?

I just stepped out to the garage to see if I could see if there was a switch on the latch on the lower passenger side. Too much plastic to tell, but I did see a very round robust cable down there. I doubt that it was for a 2 conductor cable though. I did see the latch release cable which comes in from the drivers side.,

Maybe it is an option my truck does not have.

Normal Ops of the Perimeter Alarm
All Doors and Hood Switch are Monitored

To Test:
Lock the Truck with all doors and hood closed, Roll down Driver's Window
Take FOB away from the truck
After a 20-Second delay of the truck being locked
Reach in through the window and either pull the Hood Release or Interior Door handle and open the Hood or Door.
After a 30-Second delay the Security Horn will sound in 30-Second intervals.

The alarm needs all doors / hood to be closed - To Arm by description, so unclear if the doors arm with the hood open and truck is locked and by-passing the hood switch.
I doubt it will arm due to the fact that in order for Remote Start to work, all doors and hood must be closed, plus the Mis-Lock feedback of the system.

The tie in for the possible noise in video #2 is the Security Horn Relay, it is a 5-Pin relay, and the relay / horn is a dual purpose. Constant Power - For Feedback-Momentary Horn - (current depicted position)) & Switched Power (Security Alarm) (relay energizes to the other point)
1. Security Alarm - Anti-Theft
2. It is the Horn that sounds as feedback for:
a. Exit the cabin with FOB in pocket and truck running (DBL Honk)
b. The feedback Honk when you press the lock button on the FOB (2x), and you get the honk and the parking lights flash
c. The FOB / Phone - Panic Alarm
d. Program the TPMS sensors - Horn Feedback confirmation of successful learn
e. Door Mis-Lock feedback, if you lock the doors and any door or hood is opened.

So, the point is that the Security Horn has the TCU & RTM tying into it for external influence via Phone and FOB controlling the door lock system plus the trucks on-board door locking system as well as the panic alarm.
The door locking system and door ajar tie together, however it is the Door / Hood Ajar circuit that actually triggers the alarm - The Door Locking System (Only Arms It)
This is where I am (uncertain) ref video #2 noise, as it has not been 100% confirmed by any owner that that noise is actually coming from the Security Alarm Horn.
To me it makes the most logical sense that it is.
What specific voltage input is the cause, be it a faulty input from any of the door/ hoor ajar inputs partially trying to trigger the alarm or a stuck (feedback) signal trying to sound the horn - IDK
It could even be low battery voltage

So, my assumption on how the TCU (Ford-Pass) and the Wake Circuit tie into this is that Constant Power being on that (Current @ Rest) position of the relay, the Wake Circuit is the only normal way for power to be applied to the circuits and modules after they enter sleep mode. So, if power is applied and that relay is receiving a activate signal on either side (Point 87-(In line with the Fuse 8) point or (Point 87a - Current @ Rest Position) 87 & 87a are ref to the relay contacts, would indicate that power is somehow partially bleeding over to the horn.
The timing of the noise has me stumped -Ref Video #2 and the OP's 45-Seconds, as they do not match any (programmed - timed) events known for the truck unless there is a faulty signal trigger.
1. PCM - wake circuit should be 3-minutes on and then time out - if engine is not started
2. Alarm - Should be 30-seconds on and then off, 30-seconds on to a max of 10-cycles

NOTE: The Hood / Door Ajar - Message will show if the truck is running on the IPC message center.

Partial Circuit Diagram:

 

[TJC]

Thanks! I'll give it a try later today.

Complex system with a lot of software running behind it. Unless a person has a full set of schematics and logic diagrams, it is near impossible to effectively diagnose these issues.

I have heard of the hood unlocked display issue in some Fords (with the problem usually being a dirty or sticking momentary switch that never completes the circuit) at the lock, but never anything like this.

These types of problems remind me of my early days at IBM. Back when the System 360 came out in 1964, to encourage companies to commit to them, IBM promised that whatever applications that were written for the S/360 would be able to run on all future mainframe systems.

To keep that compatibility promise, IBM built successive firmware / software layers on each succeeding generation of the mainframes. Think pancake stacks of software layers each talking to the layer just above and below it. This is an over simplification, but the analogy works.
Each system layer being far more complex than the previous generation.

Fast forward 30 years to the 1990's. All of the original assembly code(microcode/firmware/SW) designers/coders are retired or dead, and the source code has long since been lost.

When a new system was developed, the next layer of SW had to be fully tested to insure compatibility with all the receding layers down to the tiny 360 core layer at the bottom of the stack. If an incompatibility was found, SW engineers had to reverse engineer the instruction sets in the microcode (as the assembly code and assembler (compiler) no longer existed) at the failing layer and patch it, then rerun all manner of extensive tests to insure there were no unexpected ripple effects in the patched code and each layer of code above.

What a pain in the @ss! You can not imagine how tedious this effort is.

When I left IBM in 2005 to join Lenovo (who purchased the IBM PC Company), that compatibility promise was still in play, and probably still is today.

The more complex the plumbing, the easier it is to stop it up, and the harder it is to diagnose and correct. We appear to be closing in on that level of complexity in modern automotive engineering.

 

[Scott D]

Sorry I haven't given an update on this, I didn't have any time to address it last week.

I still need to re-add the truck to the Fordpass app and see if there was any kind of alert.

One thing I did check was the Nationwide Smartmiles module that is plugged into the diagnostic port. I removed it and it was still doing the click/tone thing every 45 seconds. It is definitely the wastegate actuator making the sound under the hood.

The hood has always been open when the battery minder is on it, and it didn't start doing this click/tone every 45 seconds until recently.

I don't have a remote start button on my key fob, it's just a STX.

I did make a couple pictures underneath the dash, passenger side. I have no idea who one is the modem.

This one is above your feet.

And this mess is to the right of your feet.

 

[TJC]

The Black box with the white label is the modem, and the cable that I unplugged is circled in red. (White socket with a black cable plug.)

 

[Scott D]

The Black box with the white label is the modem, and the cable that I unplugged is circled in red.

/QUOTE]

Great, I'm going pull the truck out of the garage and give this a try before the day is over. I'll see if I can add the truck back to Fordpass first.

Thanks again to everyone for helping.

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