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Update

So I noticed that this bolt circled blue was loose, I am thinking maybe the mechanic could have connected the accessory back to the battery negative instead of grounding it to the chassis ( as mentioned by @RangerBill) as this accessory cable was also damaged but I don't know where it was connected before they did the timing cover.

I have moved it to the loose bolt and tightened it, reset BMS again and cleared fault code but unfortunately the issue persists. I then tried disconnecting the Accessory all together reset everything but the issue continues. I still get the battery charging service now light, 4x4 light and sometimes check differentional.

I can't see any loose connections as yet. The search continues!! Ranger starts fine every time even after not using it for a few days, no issues whilst driving.

My next plan is the put the original battery on an optimiser and stick it back in the truck

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Also, I've just done a voltage test on the battery under full load after driving around town for 40 mins and the voltage is now only 11.5 with the engine running!

I assume this could be an issue with the alternator or the garage haven't reconnected everything properly as it was fine before it went in?
 

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Also, I've just done a voltage test on the battery under full load after driving around town for 40 mins and the voltage is now only 11.5 with the engine running!

I assume this could be an issue with the alternator or the garage haven't reconnected everything properly as it was fine before it went in?
Have you checked the tightness of the cable that connects to the alternator itself? It is the cable connected to the other end of the 300 amp fuse that you replaced.
 
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Have you checked the tightness of the cable that connects to the alternator itself? It is the cable connected to the other end of the 300 amp fuse that you replaced.
To be fair I haven't. I'll follow that cable as I'm not sure where it connects. Thanks
 

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To be fair I haven't. I'll follow that cable as I'm not sure where it connects. Thanks
It attaches to a stud on the alternator.
 


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Here is a drawing of the alternator connections. The top one has a boot over it that would have to be pulled back to check the tightness of the wire underneath it. Be aware that that wire is connected to the battery through the fuse that you replaced, so remove the battery ground terminal before tightening the nut on the alternator.

Screenshot 2025-07-05 114004.jpg
 
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Here is a drawing of the alternator connections. The top one has a boot over it that would have to be pulled back to check the tightness of the wire underneath it. Be aware that that wire is connected to the battery through the fuse that you replaced, so remove the battery ground terminal before tightening the nut on the alternator.

Screenshot 2025-07-05 114004.jpg
Thank you, this is very helpful ?
 

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Thank you, this is very helpful ?
I forgot to mention that the picture is for the North American 2.3 liter gas engine. Yours may be somewhat different but should be similar.
 

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Also, I've just done a voltage test on the battery under full load after driving around town for 40 mins and the voltage is now only 11.5 with the engine running!

I assume this could be an issue with the alternator or the garage haven't reconnected everything properly as it was fine before it went in?
When you say "under full load" do you mean that you ran a load test on the battery? Or simply drove the truck around with accessories and lights on?

If you actually performed a load test, did you isolate the battery from the truck before running that test?
 
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When you say "under full load" do you mean that you ran a load test on the battery? Or simply drove the truck around with accessories and lights on?

If you actually performed a load test, did you isolate the battery from the truck before running that test?
Yeah sorry I mean I drove it around for 40 mins, returned home with engine running and turned everything on, aircon, wipers, lights, windscreen etc, and checked the voltage on the battery which was 11.5v.
 

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As a test try unplugging the BMS Sensor on the negative terminal, and drive the same load test again. Measuring voltages as before. UInplugging the BMS sensor will modify the BMS charge parameters to that of previous generation Rangers, at least it does on the US models.

This may help you isolate the issue, If symptoms stay the same, it points more to external wiring or alternator issue. If symptoms change, the problem may be in the controlling electronics or firmware.

Best of luck.
 
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As a test try unplugging the BMS Sensor on the negative terminal, and drive the same load test again. Measuring voltages as before. UInplugging the BMS sensor will modify the BMS charge parameters to that of previous generation Rangers, at least it does on the US models.

This may help you isolate the issue, If symptoms stay the same, it points more to external wiring or alternator issue. If symptoms change, the problem may be in the controlling electronics or firmware.

Best of luck.
Thanks I'll try it.
 
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So I think this is solved fingers crossed. It was so simple! The diagram helped from @RangerBill thanks. The connection to the actual alternator I was able to turn it a quarter to half a turn but then decided to unscrew it fully as I could feel something at the back which was like a non-sticky brown glue or silicone type substance over the connection as seen in the photo. Some of this substance was dangling down and must have wedged between the connection when the garage reinstalled the alternator. Been driving a week now no issues since removing this and tightening it back up!!

PXL_20250706_105200163~2.webp
 
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Thanks for everyone's help
 

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So I think this is solved fingers crossed. It was so simple! The diagram helped from @RangerBill thanks. The connection to the actual alternator I was able to turn it a quarter to half a turn but then decided to unscrew it fully as I could feel something at the back which was like a non-sticky brown glue or silicone type substance over the connection as seen in the photo. Some of this substance was dangling down and must have wedged between the connection when the garage reinstalled the alternator. Been driving a week now no issues since removing this and tightening it back up!!

PXL_20250706_105200163~2.jpg
From your picture, it looks like you have the alternator terminal nut removed. The lug beneath the nut looks corroded. I would remove the lug (after taking the battery negative terminal off to prevent shorting the lead out) and clean it up with Scotch Brite or steel wool and put it back together to improve the connection.
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