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Adding strobe module to lighting.

OFC Ranger

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I want to wire the ability for my various lighting equipment to strobe. My question is not so much about strobe modules themselves, but in my specific case I want my switches physically separated while also retaining constant on ability. Yes I know there are all sorts of fancy systems out there, but my system are rocker switch in style as I'm trying to KISS and avoiding any wireless or fancy lighted buttons.

In usual fashion I have crafted a masterful schematic using MSPaint.

Basically I have my standard switch box for standard on/off. Then I have a different switch in a different location to feed power and then momentary capability to cycle patterns.

Is this wired correctly or did I botch something simple?

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D Fresh

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Looks legit to me, but what happens if you accidentally throw both switches? Aren't you an LEO? Could you run it by the guys that outfit your cars?

Aren't there light control solutions with switching AND strobe capability? Seems to me that would really keep it simple and possibly clean up the install a bit.

Also, other than giving people seizures and making it impossible for anybody but you to see, I don't get the purpose of strobes.
 
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OFC Ranger

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Looks legit to me, but what happens if you accidentally throw both switches? Aren't you an LEO? Could you run it by the guys that outfit your cars?

Aren't there light control solutions with switching AND strobe capability? Seems to me that would really keep it simple and possibly clean up the install a bit.

Also, other than giving people seizures and making it impossible for anybody but you to see, I don't get the purpose of strobes.
Its for amber pods and marker lighting not any of my white spot lights.
 
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OFC Ranger

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Looks legit to me, but what happens if you accidentally throw both switches? Aren't you an LEO? Could you run it by the guys that outfit your cars?
I don't ever really speak to them, someone else is over all that. If it was a simple matter of always strobe and just pattern change that is easy anyhow.

Aren't there light control solutions with switching AND strobe capability? Seems to me that would really keep it simple and possibly clean up the install a bit.
I try not to discard perfectly good working items. My current gang switch box is exactly what I want. I kind of look at it as keeping some things analog as oppose to digital metaphorically. I could go out and buy an entire system with a fancy flat back-lit push button panel - but I am keeping my controls old school. While I appreciate systems like Trigger has, I have no interest in introducing wireless / blutooth capability without a physical connection still being present.

There are dual switches - but its a power on (strobe starts) and a secondary momentary switch to cycle patterns. In my setup I retain simple on/off on a different regularly accessed switch. There are some strobe controllers that have a constant on feature with pattern memory - but again, its like adding an extra possible failure point. If my strobe module goes bad I want to retain bypass capability more or less.
 

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The way you have it drawn out...it ain't gonna work.

From your drawing and your explanation in the preceeding posts, you're trying to strobe your marker lights and an auxiliary amber. Unless you have a strobe module that works specifically with CAN BUS vehicle lighting sytems, you will likely backfeed voltage into a module not designed for that.

Assuming you have all the correct components, if you connect everything as you show, all current flowing to both the strobe module and your lightbar will flow through your switch. If you're ok with this, you need to make sure your switch panel (and all wiring) is rated to handle the amperage(current) flowing through it. Ideally, you should switch the circuit with a relay.

The momentary switch should be connected to the wire from the strobe module that controls pattern selection which usually requires either a voltage or a groung signal to switch patterns. Not to the lights.

In this case, the KISS rule necessitates purchasing the correct equipment and utilizing correct implementation processes for the task at hand. It'll save you time and money in the long run.
 


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OFC Ranger

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The way you have it drawn out...it ain't gonna work.

From your drawing and your explanation in the preceeding posts, you're trying to strobe your marker lights and an auxiliary amber. Unless you have a strobe module that works specifically with CAN BUS vehicle lighting sytems, you will likely backfeed voltage into a module not designed for that.

Assuming you have all the correct components, if you connect everything as you show, all current flowing to both the strobe module and your lightbar will flow through your switch. If you're ok with this, you need to make sure your switch panel (and all wiring) is rated to handle the amperage(current) flowing through it. Ideally, you should switch the circuit with a relay.

The momentary switch should be connected to the wire from the strobe module that controls pattern selection which usually requires either a voltage or a groung signal to switch patterns. Not to the lights.

In this case, the KISS rule necessitates purchasing the correct equipment and utilizing correct implementation processes for the task at hand. It'll save you time and money in the long run.
When I refer to marker lights I mean ones I am installing on my roof platform, not the factory marker lights.

My current system is walled behind proper relays and fuses. The drawing is for basic troubleshooting, it is not my literal setup.

Sorry that was an error in my drawing - I am looking at combo switches where the third line is internally built in (aka why it is a combo of a switch and a push button. However this is still a third line which I believe is going to be your ACC connection.

To me KISS is not putting all my eggs in one basket. Hence I do not want one of the plethora of switch panels currently on the market where everything is operated by a single panel. I like having back up systems. Nothing wrong with running a setup like mine, the various wiring can be can be done clean and bundled into a harness no problem.

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D Fresh

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I don't ever really speak to them, someone else is over all that. If it was a simple matter of always strobe and just pattern change that is easy anyhow.
I can understand that. Not knowing the size or organization of your department I thought they might be accessible.

I try not to discard perfectly good working items. My current gang switch box is exactly what I want. I kind of look at it as keeping some things analog as oppose to digital metaphorically. I could go out and buy an entire system with a fancy flat back-lit push button panel - but I am keeping my controls old school. While I appreciate systems like Trigger has, I have no interest in introducing wireless / blutooth capability without a physical connection still being present.

There are dual switches - but its a power on (strobe starts) and a secondary momentary switch to cycle patterns. In my setup I retain simple on/off on a different regularly accessed switch. There are some strobe controllers that have a constant on feature with pattern memory - but again, its like adding an extra possible failure point. If my strobe module goes bad I want to retain bypass capability more or less.
Makes some sense. I can certainly get down with the redundancy aspect.

I try to avoid discarding perfectly good items as well. But the way I do it, on the front end, leads me to a bit of "analysis paralysis" sometimes.
 

P. A. Schilke

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I might just say screw it and get a Feniex Flasher module. Trusted enough for emergency vehicle use so I may just have to go the practical route.
Hi Jack,

As other said...I was concerned with back feeding and what we call sneak path. Sneak path analysis of a wiring loom is sophisticated but ids areas of problem not readily available to a visual wiring diagram. Airline industry is a leader in sneak path analysis as it is critical. I thought about your wiring diagram and instead of an immediate response I pondered maybe installing diodes and then concluded that this would not work either. Probably better to take the Feniex route...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
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