275/55-R20 Installed

[daczone]

I was in the quest for a more aggressive look, but didn't want to kill my mileage. I searched for the lightest rim and tire combo with cost in mind.
I came up with the MAMBA M14

Just 29 lbs each in a 20x9 rim (+12 offset)

Mounted on a low cost Renegade RT (RASYTH0153) just 43 lbs each. So 72 lbs each.

Stock Ford rim is around 33-37 lbs each depending on the module + 35 lbs for a Dynapro (18" Lariat model) So I could actually have a slight reduction in weight or the same. pretty close.

These tires have a HWY tread down the middle to reduce noise.

2 styles depending how you mount them:

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[daczone]

Trying to show the offset. They stick out slightly. Honestly the truck drives better. It has a leveling kit on stock suspension. It's just a 4x4 so no FX4 option.

 

[Jason B]

Truck looks good. Toppers look a whole lot better on a SCAB than a SCREW.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Looks sharp Dave. I’m going to guess that you are very close to rubbing at full lock.

31.9” and +12mm isn’t much different than the 32.2” and +15mm I have, and man, I was close!

 

[daczone]

Looks sharp Dave. I’m going to guess that you are very close to rubbing at full lock.

31.9” and +12mm isn’t much different than the 32.2” and +15mm I have, and man, I was close!

It reality... no rubbing. I ordered new crash bars last night. However with any movement of the suspension it rubs at full lock.

I had originally wanted +18 offset but they don't have that with this bolt pattern so I got a little more tire and rim. But it drives so much better, Maybe the tires, maybe the track width, maybe OEM hankock tires are just cheap, maybe all of it.

I used this https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ to see clearances.

I was stuck between wanting to go BIG or being sensible and when I saw the cutting involved in doing a big lift I decided to be sensible.

 

[daczone]

Truck looks good. Toppers look a whole lot better on a SCAB than a SCREW.

I would agree, I have a toneau cover for it and I loved it, but hated the look. I purposely bought a SCAB for the 6' bed. As I didn't need a back seat. I love the look of the Aussie Rangers with the sail panels. But most of all my dog loves his new topper.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

It reality... no rubbing. I ordered new crash bars last night. However with any movement of the suspension it rubs at full lock.

I had originally wanted +18 offset but they don't have that with this bolt pattern so I got a little more tire and rim. But it drives so much better, Maybe the tires, maybe the track width, maybe OEM hankock tires are just cheap, maybe all of it.

I used this https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ to see clearances.

I was stuck between wanting to go BIG or being sensible and when I saw the cutting involved in doing a big lift I decided to be sensible.

Mine were close and I wasn’t sure I could get away without rubbing off-road, so I swapped in ReadyLIFT crash bars, just to make sure. I did the remove and replace thing instead of cutting them out. Good luck with your swap - bit of a PITA - there are some good threads on here that explain the process - also some bad threads that show how not to do it. ?

 

[daczone]

Mine were close and I wasn’t sure I could get away without rubbing off-road, so I swapped in ReadyLIFT crash bars, just to make sure. I did the remove and replace thing instead of cutting them out. Good luck with your swap - bit of a PITA - there are some good threads on here that explain the process - also some bad threads that show how not to do it. ?

Dang, I thought you were going to give me a tip! Yeah not looking forward to that for sure. I've heard it's not fun. I went with the same ones, via stage5motorsports.

 

[Discount Tire]

Trying to show the offset. They stick out slightly. Honestly the truck drives better. It has a leveling kit on stock suspension. It's just a 4x4 so no FX4 option.

Great looking set up! Thank you for sharing!

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Front bars are easier than the rears.

Okay, here’s a tip: Mark the gap between the bumper and upper valance using painter’s tape and leave the tape attached to the upper valance so you can get it re-aligned properly after.

Second tip: Loosen both sides of the bumper but do not remove bumper bolts completely - you just need enough room to slide the front bar out - loosening only one side at a time might not allow you to move the bumper out of the way enough.

Third tip: Some of the small retainer clips for the lower plastic bumper valance might get bent, damaged, fall off, or remain attached to the truck - needle-nose pliers and a drop cloth are your friends.

Another: Be patient and careful peeling back the wheel well liner to get at the rear crush blocks behind the liner - don’t fold it back out of the way unless you want to tear it or crease it.

And another: You might have to pop the bottom of the fender trim to bend or push on the bottom lip of the fender to wiggle the crash bar past it - try to remove the clip from inside the fender or have a proper trim removal tool.

Final tip: The bolts are on the top of the bracket - the nut on the bottom is welded to the bracket. A member here used a big friggin’ breaker bar and tore the welded nut from the bracket. Never arm wrestle that guy - you will lose.

 

[MXGOLF]

Dave I have the Ready Lift crash bars for $100. I did not have to use them. I am in Beaverton! That's a good deal. Brand New.

 

[PltFX4]

Looks sharp Dave. I’m going to guess that you are very close to rubbing at full lock.

31.9” and +12mm isn’t much different than the 32.2” and +15mm I have, and man, I was close!

Yep, Dave... with my 275/50R20s they did rub at full lock or going over a good bump while turning (driveways and such). But with the stock crash bars, you hardly heard it. My tire are more highway tires so no big lugs to catch. After the replacement crash bars are installed are all good.

 

[daczone]

Dave I have the Ready Lift crash bars for $100. I did not have to use them. I am in Beaverton! That's a good deal. Brand New.

I ordered a set, wish I would have seen that sooner. Hopefully they will be here next week. I'm going to try to remove my stock ones tomorrow

 

[daczone]

Front bars are easier than the rears.

OMG your not kidding!!! I got 1 done, I'd rather put another leveling kit on than do this... I though it wouldn't be the hard. My fender liners seem to be attached to the fender trim. So I did NOT remove it. I also didn't remove my tires, as there was plenty of room to work turning the wheel. I did CUT them to remove them. The inner plastic thing does need to swing out of the way to remove the 2nd bolt. Doing it with the fender liner in the way was a challenge but I got it with an electric rachet.

So the 1 side done, 1 side to go.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

OMG your not kidding!!! I got 1 done, I'd rather put another leveling kit on than do this... I though it wouldn't be the hard. My fender liners seem to be attached to the fender trim. So I did NOT remove it. I also didn't remove my tires, as there was plenty of room to work turning the wheel. I did CUT them to remove them. The inner plastic thing does need to swing out of the way to remove the 2nd bolt. Doing it with the fender liner in the way was a challenge but I got it with an electric rachet.

So the 1 side done, 1 side to go.

It’s more work than it seems, for sure. The second side should go a little better. Good luck. ??

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