2019 Ranger/need help dropping steering column & replacing mode door actuator motor.

[RangerBill]

I have a 2019 Ranger with a probable climate control mode door actuator failure (i can't get bi-level air from the panel and the floor - no clicking, everything else works).

I'd like to swap the driver side actuator motor with the one from the heat blend door on the glove box side (same Ford part number) to confirm the failure but while the blend motor is easy to get at the mode door on the driver's side is a nightmare.

do i have to drop or lower or remove the steering column, and even then how do i get around the dash support bracket. can anyone help who's done it or something similar? and are there any manuals available on-line?

thanks,
jim d.

I just tried mine with panel and floor vents selected. I can barely feel any air flow from the floor. I have to put my hand right on the floor registers to feel any air flow. What you are experiencing may be normal.

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[DonovanJM]

That's weird. I just checked mine again because it's been awhile since I have tried both. It's actually my dash vents that stop blowing. My floor loses some flow as expected but my vent has essentially zero flow. I wish I had some yarn or light weight string to show in a video.

 

[airline tech]

The only thing I never 100% investigated is how the system fully controls airflow, I know it uses the temp sensors and the FCIM programming uses that information and dictates what vents it needs to use to obtain the desired temperature (selected) the quickest.
This is all in the programming in the FCIM
Plus I fully understand how the actuators can separate temperature- side to side but where I kinda get lost is how the system has the ability to set (1) actuator (airflow) mode door and can separate side to side flow, example would be stronger airflow on drivers side (foot) and weaker on passenger side.
Or even vent on passenger but not drivers side.
There are a set of internal doors that do not show in the diagrams that must be movable (dependent) on the mode door actuator position, I am kinda wondering of those separate doors are sometimes hanging up on a dislodged foam (seal)
This would be the foam seal that is finding its way down to the bottom of the drain pan and clogging some of the drains up.
When I get time in the AM I will highlight these doors, this is where I wish I had a unit in my hands to actually see the internal operation on how these doors actually move and can be separated in control.

 

[dokkerdam]

The only thing I never 100% investigated is how the system fully controls airflow, I know it uses the temp sensors and the FCIM programming uses that information and dictates what vents it needs to use to obtain the desired temperature (selected) the quickest.
This is all in the programming in the FCIM
Plus I fully understand how the actuators can separate temperature- side to side but where I kinda get lost is how the system has the ability to set (1) actuator (airflow) mode door and can separate side to side flow, example would be stronger airflow on drivers side (foot) and weaker on passenger side.
Or even vent on passenger but not drivers side.
There are a set of internal doors that do not show in the diagrams that must be movable (dependent) on the mode door actuator position, I am kinda wondering of those separate doors are sometimes hanging up on a dislodged foam (seal)
This would be the foam seal that is finding its way down to the bottom of the drain pan and clogging some of the drains up.
When I get time in the AM I will highlight these doors, this is where I wish I had a unit in my hands to actually see the internal operation on how these doors actually move and can be separated in control.

exhibit).
your description of the system is excellent and with your automatic control i understand how the zone (vs. mode)doors can further modulate the system.

i don't think that the system in a manual climate control car further modulates airflow depending on environmental inputs. furthermore, whether it does or doesn't, i am certain that i used to be able to split warm air in winter between the two outputs - panel and bi-level - higher flow at floor versus lighter air at panel (also exactly as per your description of the panel/floor bi-level output).

and in past summers i routinely split AC air between panel or floor. another reason i am certain of the systems past performance is because i split panel and floor to get my dog some dash air while still heating or cooling the floor. in bi-level/heat mode the panel output was slightly cooler than the floor and perfect for the animal. no, this condition is new.

and i can still get full airflow at the floor or panel separately so internally whatever doors are at play are operating smoothly and correctly save for one bi-level position entirely controlled by the mode door motor (the other bi-level position, 75% in your specifications, works correctly and in fact you mentioned that this position provides a slightly lesser flow at the flow vs. defrost. this is exactly how that is working in my vehicle).

too bad i cannot manually move the mode cam a few degrees fore and aft in bi-level to determine if that's all it takes to fix this condition. and if that motor was easy to get at swapping or replacing it would be a lot less expensive than having Ford scope it (and i'm absolutely certain that no one in that Ford's service department would know what we are even talking about and they would start by pulling the dash and replacing the entire heater manifold. when i did initially speak to them on the phone the advisor immediately talked about clicking and the BLEND door - apparently a common and catastrophic problem rangers
i did note the temperature sensor in the driver's floor output duct on my manual XL. i might try disconnecting that this morning to see if it makes any difference.

thanks,
jim d.

 

[dokkerdam]

I just tried mine with panel and floor vents selected. I can barely feel any air flow from the floor. I have to put my hand right on the floor registers to feel any air flow. What you are experiencing may be normal.

something has changed. in past summers i routinely split AC air between panel or floor - i find that in panel only the floor gets stuffy. another reason i am certain of the systems past performance is because i split panel and floor to get my dog some dash air while still heating or cooling the floor.

no, this condition is new. you might have the exact same condition.

try splitting between defrost and floor. the floor flow would be LESS in that mode than in panel-floor.

are you in warranty and could you get Ford to scope your vehicle?

thanks,
jim d.

 

[dokkerdam]

That's weird. I just checked mine again because it's been awhile since I have tried both. It's actually my dash vents that stop blowing. My floor loses some flow as expected but my vent has essentially zero flow. I wish I had some yarn or light weight string to show in a video.

it sounds like you could have a different flow variation from perhaps the exact same actuator motor or software problem. i assume you have no clicking. can you get a full floor or panel or defrost flow without bi-level?

my floor flow might move a candle flame but i don't feel it with my hand. do you have a manual system and is the flow reduced on the passenger side as well?

I've included a photo of the cams next to the actuator motor in the panel-floor bi-level. you can barely view this cam if you remove the fuse cover panel below the steering column. it might be impossible to tell but see if you can determine any slight change in the position of the cam (i find its better to take a cell phone photo and then you can blow it up).

jim d.

 

[dokkerdam]

I hope you get this figured out. I have the same issue on my 21. I get good air flow when it's on floor, vents, or defrost individually and even mixed floor/defrost. But if I try and mix vent and floor I get practically zero flow through either. Lots of noise though. I had the dealer look at it and they said it was normal compared to other Rangers.

if you have clicking plastic noises you might have a damaged cam or the small plastic gears inside the actuator motor have stripped and you would need a new motor (and the associated labor to get to it).

if no motor noise than you have a variation of my problem and i still think its the motor but am looking elsewhere to rule out anything else.

i spoke to Ford again this afternoon - their only response is to go to the dealer (yeah, the folks that told you no bi-level is normal). so i'm not going to pay them to tell me i've got nothing wrong when i know something has changed.

and two phone reps told me they could not find an FCIM reset for the manual climate control system in my XL, nor any campaign involving the climate control system. My gut says they know about bad motors/cams/sticking doors and the last think they want to do is start R&Ring dashboards at their expense.

unfortunately you are probably out of the 36 month bumper to bumper warranty and its not drivetrain.

jim d.

 

[dokkerdam]

p.s

if you have clicking plastic noises you might have a damaged cam or the small plastic gears inside the actuator motor have stripped and you would need a new motor (and the associated labor to get to it).

if no motor noise than you have a variation of my problem and i still think its the motor but am looking elsewhere to rule out anything else.

i spoke to Ford again this afternoon - their only response is to go to the dealer (yeah, the folks that told you no bi-level is normal). so i'm not going to pay them to tell me i've got nothing wrong when i know something has changed.

and two phone reps told me they could not find an FCIM reset for the manual climate control system in my XL, nor any campaign involving the climate control system. My gut says they know about bad motors/cams/sticking doors and the last think they want to do is start R&Ring dashboards at their expense.

unfortunately you are probably out of the 36 month bumper to bumper warranty and its not drivetrain.

jim d.

p.s. can you get of a photo of the motor/cams in the panel/floor bi-level setting?

 

[RangerBill]

something has changed. in past summers i routinely split AC air between panel or floor - i find that in panel only the floor gets stuffy. another reason i am certain of the systems past performance is because i split panel and floor to get my dog some dash air while still heating or cooling the floor.

no, this condition is new. you might have the exact same condition.

try splitting between defrost and floor. the floor flow would be LESS in that mode than in panel-floor.

are you in warranty and could you get Ford to scope your vehicle?

thanks,
jim d.

I never use the dash and floor vent modes, I just tried it to see if it acted the same as yours.

 

[airline tech]

I never use Bi-Level either, I generally just leave it in (Auto)

You can reset the FCIM by using Forscan or Scan Tool, and perform a (Self-Test) when this runs, it performs a reset of the module and recalibrates the actuators (stops)
All Rangers have the FCIM installed, the only difference is the design and programming.

 

[DonovanJM]

if you have clicking plastic noises you might have a damaged cam or the small plastic gears inside the actuator motor have stripped and you would need a new motor (and the associated labor to get to it).

if no motor noise than you have a variation of my problem and i still think its the motor but am looking elsewhere to rule out anything else.

i spoke to Ford again this afternoon - their only response is to go to the dealer (yeah, the folks that told you no bi-level is normal). so i'm not going to pay them to tell me i've got nothing wrong when i know something has changed.

and two phone reps told me they could not find an FCIM reset for the manual climate control system in my XL, nor any campaign involving the climate control system. My gut says they know about bad motors/cams/sticking doors and the last think they want to do is start R&Ring dashboards at their expense.

unfortunately you are probably out of the 36 month bumper to bumper warranty and its not drivetrain.

jim d.

Mine doesn't make the clicking sound either. I'll if I can get the pictures tomorrow.

 

[airline tech]

Repost (Due to Server Issue) dumped the post

I played with mine and ran temps full hot and full cold while in manual mode.
Noted that the Mode Door actuator did not move, so I can confirm that in Bi-Level the percentage position should be 25%, but did note that it may read 24% - I do not think a 1% variance will make any difference.
No noted airflow issues

Let id idle for an extended period for testing to ensure both Temp Sensors (Panel & Foot) would closely match

Viewing the FCIM PID data is the only true way to see what the actual position of the door is.

I wanted to include the Temp Sensors as they are the Feedback to the FCIM for actual temperature being delivered and I do not have a full and clear understanding on what the FCIM does with that information (reaction of control)
That is all tied into how the FCIM is programmed.
Basically - will a misreading temp sensor - block the mode selection from going into (Bi-Level) as it would be relying on a valid temp reading.
Note: in (Auto) it automatically adjusts the temp doors and mode doors (using the temp sensors) but unknown if in manual what (control) do the temp sensors have within the FCIM programming (is what I am uncertain)
Just something to check and note what they are reading, however note that they are slow to respond and are not an immediate read, example I idled for about 10 minutes to get these readings (Temp Selected - LO) to drive them down this low.

The most important is they closely match.
The Internal Temp (Humidity Temp Sensor) matched a handheld thermometer when shot into the vent (by your right knee) on the dash

 

[dokkerdam]

Repost (Due to Server Issue) dumped the post

I played with mine and ran temps full hot and full cold while in manual mode.
Noted that the Mode Door actuator did not move, so I can confirm that in Bi-Level the percentage position should be 25%, but did note that it may read 24% - I do not think a 1% variance will make any difference.
No noted airflow issues

Let id idle for an extended period for testing to ensure both Temp Sensors (Panel & Foot) would closely match

Viewing the FCIM PID data is the only true way to see what the actual position of the door is.

I wanted to include the Temp Sensors as they are the Feedback to the FCIM for actual temperature being delivered and I do not have a full and clear understanding on what the FCIM does with that information (reaction of control)
That is all tied into how the FCIM is programmed.
Basically - will a misreading temp sensor - block the mode selection from going into (Bi-Level) as it would be relying on a valid temp reading.
Note: in (Auto) it automatically adjusts the temp doors and mode doors (using the temp sensors) but unknown if in manual what (control) do the temp sensors have within the FCIM programming (is what I am uncertain)
Just something to check and note what they are reading, however note that they are slow to respond and are not an immediate read, example I idled for about 10 minutes to get these readings (Temp Selected - LO) to drive them down this low.

The most important is they closely match.
The Internal Temp (Humidity Temp Sensor) matched a handheld thermometer when shot into the vent (by your right knee) on the dash

i'm dragging my feet on tearing into my ranger to swap the actuator motors. i'm thinking that even with the steering column removed entirely i just don't see how i'm going to get my hands around that one heavy forward dash support. i don't see how it can be done. Has anyone removed the mode actuator successfully without removing the dash?

another question specifically for you: if you remove the mode motor does that yellow cam stay on the manifold or is it free floating between the two. and if that cam or the bosses on it are broken what then? the cam is not shown as a separate buyable part.

thanks,
jim d.

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