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I would check the bulb or LED and connections to the stop light. Do you have the Ford Trailer Brake controller with the connections to the high mounted stop light installed? If so, check those connectors in the headliner.

Good to hear. Does the high mount stop light work? If I remember correctly, you had another post about the air inlet damper a while ago. If so, it is an old problem.

You want it flexible so it can allow a slight wobble of the clutch and not damage the fan bearing. Do not make it out of solid material.

You are going to have to address the water intrusion into the taillight assembly. Possibly will need a new taillight housing and BLIS module (if water entered into the BLIS module).

Yes, those would be good steps to follow. It is possible that that corrosion and water is causing most of your "U type" communications faults. If you clean it and dry up the water and you still have issues, it is likely that the BLIS module is damaged from water intrusion. You could leave the...

I believe that you have to enter the VIN number in the BLIS module if a new one is installed. Forscan should be able to handle that.

BLIS sensors are in the taillights.

You need to look at both taillights and their BLISS modules.

You could also try unplugging both taillights and clear all the codes. Then rescan to see what codes come back.

Have you checked for water/moisture in either taillight and its corresponding BLIS module? You might want to remove each BLIS module from the taillights and check for corrosion on the module and in its connector. Many of your DTCs are communications related and a corroded BLIS module or wiring...

Look in the menus under Driver Assist to turn BLISS and Cross Traffic off.

Have you read the DTC codes using Forscan? Knowing any codes will help narrow the problem down.

Check all hose clamps and piping in the intake air stream. It sounds like an air leak in the intake section, somewhere between the turbo charger and the throttle body.

It will attempt to spin fast at the fan pulley speed, with the only thing holding it back is the wiring to the speed sensor/clutch solenoid. The hose is the only thing preventing rotation of the clutch. When it breaks, the wiring will be overstressed and pulled into the belt pulley and...

Not aftermarket, but junkyard?

See this post: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/rubber-tubing-by-fan.36430/

The fan clutch position is not part of the fan clutch feedback. The PCM only needs fan speed. So, if a replacement hose put the clutch in a slightly different position, it is not an issue.

You should replace the hose if broken. Its main purpose is to prevent the fan clutch from rotating (anti-rotation device), not to support the wiring. Its secondary purpose is to support the wiring. The wires are not up to the job of preventing the clutch from rotating.

If the wires are not broken right at the connector, you should be able to splice them. You should make sure that the splices are waterproof.

Try jacking up the truck at the rear and looking at the bumper end of the leaf springs for being intact and not broken. You will have to jack on the frame, not the rear axle, to inspect.