I have 5500 miles on my Tom Woods driveshaft. I would have sold my Ranger if this didn't fix my driveline shudder. Now I drive my truck and enjoy it. I came from a 2016 Audi Allroad so I have to remind myself it is a truck and will not feel like a car. My Ranger has 27,700 miles on it now and...
A fellow forum member, quangdog, did a video which shows the stock driveshaft and center bearing on take-off. See for yourselves. He, as well as I, went to a TW single piece driveshaft and no longer has that issue. He did quite a bit of analysis and we both spoke with Shawn Woods at length...
My first brand new vehicle was a 1994 Ranger Supercab 4x2. Your story reminded me how many years ago that was. The stock Firestone tires on that thing were an oddball 14" and they had no traction in the snow and I lived in the Syracuse, NY area. A friend turned me onto Goodyear Wrangler APT's...
The Tom Woods driveshaft is great. As TJC described, it transforms the truck for those who were having the driveline shudder and vibration.
Check out this thread for info and pictures.
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/one-piece-driveshaft.21381/
The driveline shudder wasn't eliminated until I put a one-piece driveshaft from Tom Woods on the truck. The shudder could also described as a tremble or shake felt through the seat. It is an oscillation of the center bearing due to the soft support material.
MM2, served on USS Dahlgren DDG-43. Was in from 84 to 90. Went to NPS and made it to 18th week, got dropped, long story.
Thanks for serving. What boat were you on?
Back in the early 80's, a friend of mine's Mom had a V6 manual transmission Chevette. That thing would piss of a lot of motorheads at a stoplight drag race.
Stock height 2020 Ranger Lariat FX4. Woods one piece driveshaft was the fix for mine. It's been on for about 1500 miles now with great results. The only changes from stock I made was at 2000 miles I put Eibach Pro Truck rear shocks and around 20,000 miles Eibach Pro Truck front shocks with...
I would think a two piece shaft critical speed would be calculated as each section being a separate shaft and the one with the lower critical speed would be the determining factor.
The factor that will skew this is a non rigid center bearing allowing oscillation of the shaft assembly.
You could probably make a mold out of tin foil and fill it with silicone caulk. The silicone should give you the flex you're looking for. Either that or raid a plastic surgeon's trash bin for some silicone... :p
ECS Tuning added making urethane inserts for various German cars to deal with soft rubber bushings and mounts about 15+ years ago. I used a few as my last four vehicles before my Ranger were Audi's and VW's. If you build something that fixes a problem, they will buy it.
There have been a few people who have put shims/spacers under the center bearing bracket mount to fix the shudder. I did that for a while but it seemed to still have some vibes at other speeds. It would seem that it would preload the rubber support material and reduce deflection. I learned...
You may have better luck at an auto parts store. Maybe some rubber or urethane tubing. I was seeing what I had from my junk project materials that would fit. I'll find out what tubing I had that fit and post the dimensions and material. This was only on my shop floor as I am happy as a pig...
There is a nut that holds the u-joint at the center bearing. Removing it and pressing the shaft out will enable you to remove the center bearing. See the attachment.