Thanks. There is a ground stud close to the battery on my Ranger that is an easy connection spot.
My fridge pulls 22amps on dc. Yes it will pull juice, but not having enough current taxes the alternator trying to push it throug undersized wiring also. I’ve toasted a couple over the last 20...
Did you wire the input directly to the Ranger battery?
I specifically want 20 amps for my planned needs and the truck and trailer wiring won’t do that, and if it did, there would still be too much voltage drop for me.
I’m glad the 10 amp charger works for your needs, but I wonder, given the...
Has anyone added one for towing, and if so, did you just wire it directly to the battery or connect elsewhere? I am considering a Renogy 20amp model.
https://www.renogy.com/12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-6_s0_yf8wIV5mpvBB0w5wceEAQYBSABEgJuZvD_BwE
I find the interior comfortable and really easy to use. I can’t read the buttons in most cars. The ones I drive often, I just memorize after a few days and I just drive it. It doesn’t seem to matter if it’s my Toyota, Chevy, or Ford. Controls are not the same, but it becomes second nature except...
Yep on the ratchet strap question and answer. I too did it just as described. In the “old” days we used a small rope/ line and a screw driver or something to tension the loop and compress the shock. Many of them you can compress by hand, some you can’t, and sometimes it’s just easier to have...
I found the Bilstien 4600’s enough on the rear. Don’t really mind the front, but some do. Very easy to compress the shock with a small ratchet strap and then just stick it in. The rears are a really easy job.
There are lots of threads here, and lots of info other places also. I have a 2wd for gravel and pavement with an emphasis on payload and towing. I found the stock rear too bouncy. I did not want super firm, but wanted less rebound. I put Bilstein 4600’s on the rear. Not as stiff as 5100’s...
My trans temps have not been that hot yet. I will tow 5000lbs with a large truck payload and large frontal wind face several thousand miles almost daily in November. Sometimes on grades and often in heat. Once I’ve done that, I’ll have a better idea about the truck.
I haven’t seen any temps above 200 yet, but I do expect when under load in hot weather to see them. Trans temp is keeping an eye on fluid, water is the general temp and head is in case of some catastrophic rapid change that I might be able to take action to save the engine. I chose that as a...
I haven’t owned the Ranger very long, and won’t tow extensively with it until December. So, I don’t have ”normal” numbers yet. I am watching trans, water, and head temps on my Scanguage. I would not pay much attention until around 220 F. After that, I’d not want to see trans or head above 230...
Here is what Scanguage sent:
Please try the following XGauge code and let me know if it reports
Cylinder Head Temperature (°F)
TXD: 07E0220334
RXF: 046205030634
RXD: 3010
MTH: 000700FA0000
NAM: CYT
Not sure when I’ll take the Ranger for a drive, but I’ll make a post after I have more...
The trans codes are on the Xguage page at Linear-Logic.
Also, I got some new codes for cylinder temp today. I have not had time to look at them yet. I will report back when I know more.
I have set it up in Xguage. It does not read. I still haven’t heard from Linear yet. I’m not sure how their customer support does, but I still hope they or the forum have a solution. Thanks
Brand new Ranger. Installed scan gauge. Set up Xgague for trans temp and cylinder head. I thought I read the 2019+ has a cylinder head temp sensor. I get no reading for cylinder head temp. I’ve checked the data entry on my gauge setup. I contacted Linear and sent them the requested info, but...