It's been just fine! No hum or other weirdness in either direction. I'd imagine the hot side of the fuse block would come directly from the battery, so I'm sure the route isn't very circuitous (heh). Mine is a temporary install, I'm eventually going to run a distribution block to the rear seat...
Coming up a rainy on-ramp in Pennsylvania, the truck got a little loose under a 30% throttle applied acceleration. 20 hours out of the Ford Performance ST Octane Academy, I was pretty fresh in my vehicle handling, but I was certainly not expecting it.
285/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs and stock FX4...
Zero chance of clearing chains in the front of my setup. I was considering stepping down to a 32" tire for dedicated winter tires, but Nokian makes the Hakkapeliitta LT3 in a 285/70R17 and I'm not sure a 32 would clear chains anyway. Plenty of room on the spindle with the 285s and 1.5" spacers...
With the 10-speed transmission, I notice I'm usually one gear down from where I was before cruising around town, but I still get 21mpg highway (10th gear is effectively longer now) and the engine doesn't really work any harder to it. The rotating mass is obviously a little higher but it'll still...
If you've never used a grommet piercing tool, it's worth three times what it costs. I went through the right side of the main harness grommet about midway between the wires and the edge and ran a scrap piece of 16 gauge wire through it. From there, I soaped up an 8-wire jacketed cable and pulled...
The "more finesse" way to get those tabs seated is to take a flat plastic trim tool and wedge it up above the touchscreen between the dash and the plastic that surrounds the screen. Push up against the bottom of the dash to support it and the clips will click right in when you push on them.
I do pretty regular maintenance washes, but I also just drove 1,000 miles up the east coast in a rain storm. The beads of water formed "lanes" on the hood they pretty much stuck to all day; left a really neat design on the hood when I got on the boat. Nothing more than the fine stuff in the...
Yes and no. I bought Pro Comp crash bars that are slimmer and clear the 285s no problem. I took some photos today to show the clearance I have with my RokBlokz XL mud flaps, and you can see the new crash bars in each pic.
I just found some 1/8" Polyurethane sheet on Amazon for $24, the same stuff Rally Armor uses. RokBlokz are High Density Polyethylene (HDPE), they're sturdier and stronger, but less flexible. I'm gonna order some up and mess with it.
I'm actually thinking of making an extension piece for my XL's for the winter months to make them another 2-3" longer to keep EVERYTHING off the side of the truck. Still tinkering with possible materials, I'd want something a little more flexible than the base flap for the extensions.
I've crept up on something real slow and had the auto start/stop kick in while I'm still moving a bit. Scared the hell out of me, I was pulling up tight behind a brand new Range Rover on the ferry! Started right back up when I eased up on the brake.
I've been towing a lot of trailers lately, and, while most of them are light, they're getting heavier. Time to install the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite that's been in my back seat for two months.
Installing the Redarc was simple enough, but dang, the factory harness wires are SHORT! They had me bent at...
I have one little rock chip on my bed side right behind the cab, but the RokBlokz would have to be touching the ground to keep something from flying all the way back there. They keeps all of the big stuff off the truck, and sand/mud spray doesn’t start until midway down the drivers door.
I also...
Here are my 285/70R17 tires on stock Sport/FX4 wheels with a 1.5" spacer. They JUST clear the mudflaps, like, they brush them a little full lock turning into a driveway sometimes. If you run a less aggressive offset, you'll be fine. Others seem to have excellent luck with a 1" spacer instead of...