Trey on Martha's Vineyard, MA. Picked mine up in November from McGovern Ford in Lowell (helped a family member buy from Paul there last spring and he was great so I dealt with him again)
Truck is lifted 2.25" on 285/70R17 Duratracs, XLT grille swap, Baja Designs lights, and a few other things...
Depends on where, a roof light bar mount or hood mount would probably work, but anything below the headlights is likely different since the Australian trucks don't have a steel front bumper.
Happy to (kinda) help! Additionally, last time I was messing with Forscan, I thought I saw an option to have the tail lights active with the DRL, which I imagine would turn on the fender marker lights too any time the truck is out of Park with the lights in Auto.
Less mods, more road trips! I've been busy putting some miles under Rainier.
First off, a trip to Atlanta and Charlotte for my girlfriend's birthday weekend. I took her to her two favorite places, the Georgia Aquarium and ST Octane Academy! 2,467.9 miles. The trip fuel economy worked out pretty...
If you're going for ease of installation, light pods can be mounted in the holes left when you remove the five pop clips in steps 4 and 5 in the Rough Country directions. Just put the stud mount of the light through the hole, reach back in there and tighten the nut inside the bumper, no removal...
You really can't get behind that panel without removing it. It's three bolts, 5 pop clips and some gentle prying. You'll spend more time messing with the brackets trying to get them in place than you would just following the directions. Takes about 5-8 minutes to come off and 2 minutes to put on.
It would! I think you only need like 3/8" or so. I've seen people run a 1/4" spacer up front with 285s and they don't have any issues.
Would also fit between the crash bars waaay better
1.5" FactionFab here, bought them from Stage 3. They are hub-centric. I like the extra width and would do the 1.5" again given a second chance.
Pics before and after the 285s
Here's the best picture I have of that piece removed. There are a tonnnn of clips below the silver piece, you COULD put lights there, but they'd have to be pretty shallow and narrow. The smooth part of the upper piece has a clip behind it, and the honeycomb part is very close to the end of the...
I'm pretty sure you can change your DRL from the signature bar to the turn signal in Forscan. It won't affect the parking light dim illumination, but when your headlights are in auto in the daytime, the turn signals will be substituted for the DRL bar. Won't do the mirror or the side ones.
To...
What are you running for a visor bar? I'm slowly compiling lights to be run by my Whelen Cantrol and I'm interested to see how you mounted it. Mine's gonna be full duo red/amber, with four trio red/amber/white in the windshield and the grille trio red/amber/white.
Would love to see a video if...
Are those Marathon seat covers? A few of my coworkers have them in their trucks (excavation is hard on the interior) and swear by them. Super customizable.
The Lightforce fascia has an RJ45 pass through as a switch option, I just ran a regular cat5 extension cable from the faceplate down to the fascia and it works great.
I do.
I think a 1" spacer would give the best middle ground between spindle clearance and fender clearance with a 285. A 3/4" spacer would be pretty tight on the spindle with a chain. The best option would be to run something like a 255/80/17 in the winter, just need to find something that...
I wired the switch for my driving lights to only be hot with the high beams.
Switch off, lights off
Switch on, lights on with high beams
Makes turning them all off a one-switch deal when someone pops up in the middle of nowhere.
Yeah it was about a truck length after the change. Definitely deer country.
I think I mostly found it strange because I didn't add any throttle, it happened right as I straightened the wheel.
Guess this means I have to go find some weird intersections for...science :sunglasses:
Once you clear the side tabs, the two tabs on the bottom are significantly sturdier and require more force. The closer you can get to prying on the bottom of the tray instead of the edges, the better.
It's an awesome spot for a radio face plate!
Also, if you're running wires down the dash to a...