2019 Ranger/need help dropping steering column & replacing mode door actuator motor.

[dokkerdam]

I have a 2019 Ranger with a probable climate control mode door actuator failure (i can't get bi-level air from the panel and the floor - no clicking, everything else works).

I'd like to swap the driver side actuator motor with the one from the heat blend door on the glove box side (same Ford part number) to confirm the failure but while the blend motor is easy to get at the mode door on the driver's side is a nightmare.

do i have to drop or lower or remove the steering column, and even then how do i get around the dash support bracket. can anyone help who's done it or something similar? and are there any manuals available on-line?

thanks,
jim d.

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[RangerBill]

I have a 2019 Ranger with a probable climate control mode door actuator failure (i can't get bi-level air from the panel and the floor - no clicking, everything else works).

I'd like to swap the driver side actuator motor with the one from the heat blend door on the glove box side (same Ford part number) to confirm the failure but while the blend motor is easy to get at the mode door on the driver's side is a nightmare.

do i have to drop or lower or remove the steering column, and even then how do i get around the dash support bracket. can anyone help who's done it or something similar? and are there any manuals available on-line?

thanks,
jim d.

Do you have any DTC codes? HVAC actuator motor failures usually cause a DTC code. Can you observe motor movement as you make changes to the controls?

 

[dokkerdam]

Do you have any DTC codes? HVAC actuator motor failures usually cause a DTC code. Can you observe motor movement as you make changes to the controls?

I have not had the problem diagnosed by Ford (out of warrantly/$ issues). I also don't know if the auto stores can do it. the fact that the motor is working and not clicking makes me think that the motor thinks it's in the correct spot when it's not. would that show up on a code?

There's a great thread on this site that describes the movement of the mode door(s). according to that thread the motor should move through 5 positions with the floor door follower moving accordingly. that all seems to be happening. i can get great floor, panel or defrost flow but on bi-level the panel/floor setting is off. I'm thinking the motor is stopping in a slightly wrong spot that moves the doors to panel/floor but not enough floor to get a flow. if i can switch the motors I'll know instantly (and if that's not the problem then it must be software related).

 

[RangerBill]

I have not had the problem diagnosed by Ford (out of warrantly/$ issues). I also don't know if the auto stores can do it. the fact that the motor is working and not clicking makes me think that the motor thinks it's in the correct spot when it's not. would that show up on a code?

There's a great thread on this site that describes the movement of the mode door(s). according to that thread the motor should move through 5 positions with the floor door follower moving accordingly. that all seems to be happening. i can get great floor, panel or defrost flow but on bi-level the panel/floor setting is off. I'm thinking the motor is stopping in a slightly wrong spot that moves the doors to panel/floor but not enough floor to get a flow. if i can switch the motors I'll know instantly (and if that's not the problem then it must be software related).

Download Forscan and get an OBD II cable to see it there are any codes. An auto store scan will usually only read engine/transmission codes, so that won't be helpful. I would check for codes before tearing the dash apart.

 

[airline tech]

First, Sorry I forgot about your (PM) and did not reply.

The actuators are different part numbers.
Mode Door = AB3Z-19E616-A
Temp Door = AB3Z-19E616-B

Now for your Bi-Level issue, have you tried driving the temp to full hot and then checking it for airflow?
The temp sensors - Ambient, Humidity Temp and the Panel and Floor, play a role is airflow distribution.

So in winter, it primarily pushes air from the floor (Heat Rises) and in the summer it primarily pushes from the panel vents, if I recall the temperature switching point is somewhere around 45 degrees.
I did all of my testing (for that thread) in the colder months with (Heat) it may react differently with (AC), this is why I suggest trying to manually set the temp to full hot and see what it does.

You can also try - pull for 5-Minutes and reseat Fuse 12 (BCM) and also do a FCIM (Self-Test) reset, this will recalibrate the actuator.
To truly see the positions (electrically) it has to be hooked up to a scan tool that will display the PIDs.

With the dropping of the Steering Colum being a (Short Cut) to gain access to the Mode Door actuator vs full removal of the column then, pull the cover plate (support) to get access to these 4 nuts and the steering column should drop down low enough to reach over the top of it to get access to the actuator.
As the service manual has you pull the entire instrument panel for access, so dropping the steering column is a shortcut alternative, IDK exactly how much room it will give but it is defiantly easier than pulling the entire instrument panel.

I highly recommend due to limited access for that specific actuator to get a Live Data view of the actuator positions before going through the labor of shot gunning a actuator at it and as well as performing the (fuse and self test) resets.


EDIT:
Sorry, Just realized the picture did not load.
Use the Torque Sequence (noted) when reinstalling (133 Inch Lbs)

 

[dokkerdam]

Download Forscan and get an OBD II cable to see it there are any codes. An auto store scan will usually only read engine/transmission codes, so that won't be helpful. I would check for codes before tearing the dash apart.

will something like this work? are all the connectors/autos the same or are these specific?

Amazon.com: ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter, Diagnostic Coding Tool for Lincoln Mercury Vehicles, ELMconfig Scanner OBDII Scan Tool with MS-CAN/HS-CAN Switch for Windows, Not Competible with Mustang Ford Mozda : Automotive

 

[RangerBill]

will something like this work? are all the connectors/autos the same or are these specific?

Amazon.com: ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter, Diagnostic Coding Tool for Lincoln Mercury Vehicles, ELMconfig Scanner OBDII Scan Tool with MS-CAN/HS-CAN Switch for Windows, Not Competible with Mustang Ford Mozda : Automotive

Here is a link to the Forscan homepage. Scroll down to the supported adapters.
https://forscan.org/home.html

The connectors for OBD II are all the same.

 

[airline tech]

For Forscan, the OBD-EX is the most popular and recommended adaptor.
However Forscan is excellent for making changes to As-Built (custom) data and reading codes.
It is very limited on - Live PiD data and will not display the actuator positions, it must be a higher end scan tool

 

[dokkerdam]

First, Sorry I forgot about your (PM) and did not reply.

The actuators are different part numbers.
Mode Door = AB3Z-19E616-A
Temp Door = AB3Z-19E616-B

Now for your Bi-Level issue, have you tried driving the temp to full hot and then checking it for airflow?
The temp sensors - Ambient, Humidity Temp and the Panel and Floor, play a role is airflow distribution.

So in winter, it primarily pushes air from the floor (Heat Rises) and in the summer it primarily pushes from the panel vents, if I recall the temperature switching point is somewhere around 45 degrees.
I did all of my testing (for that thread) in the colder months with (Heat) it may react differently with (AC), this is why I suggest trying to manually set the temp to full hot and see what it does.

You can also try - pull for 5-Minutes and reseat Fuse 12 (BCM) and also do a FCIM (Self-Test) reset, this will recalibrate the actuator.
To truly see the positions (electrically) it has to be hooked up to a scan tool that will display the PIDs.

With the dropping of the Steering Colum being a (Short Cut) to gain access to the Mode Door actuator vs full removal of the column then, pull the cover plate (support) to get access to these 4 nuts and the steering column should drop down low enough to reach over the top of it to get access to the actuator.
As the service manual has you pull the entire instrument panel for access, so dropping the steering column is a shortcut alternative, IDK exactly how much room it will give but it is defiantly easier than pulling the entire instrument panel.

I highly recommend due to limited access for that specific actuator to get a Live Data view of the actuator positions before going through the labor of shot gunning a actuator at it and as well as performing the (fuse and self-test) resets.

i just checked (with a cold car and coolant) if moving the heat control and door changes the flow - it doesn't. I believe i have checked when the coolant was hot but will do so again. Also, as of last year i was able to AC the car and split the flow to the floor which i prefer because with panel only the floor area becomes stuffy.

This season it won't split. As of now in bi-level on a hot day there is no floor flow.

i believe i pulled the #12 Fuse before but I remember being unsure which box that fuse is and both or all boxes with a #12 aren't labeled heater or climate control.

I'd love to try a system/software reset but i don't know how. This is a 2019 XL with a manual one-zone climate system so there is no screen to control climate, and I don't know what an FCIM is.

I thought the mode and blend door motors were -B while the recirc. was -A. I was only hoping that the motor was duplicated so i could try a swap (I live miles from a Ford Dealer, i'm basically broke and can't afford their diagnostics and am looking for the Rube Goldberg diagnosis trick so i can fix it myself or live with it - for example if it's a sticking door its game over as there is no way i could afford the whole system box or the R&R dashboard labor.

I've included some photos of the 5 door positions (visual). I have a video of the range and smoothness of the cams

but it's too big to send other than as a text. I'll look into getting the diag. cable and software too.

Thanks,
Jim d.

 

[dokkerdam]

i just checked (with a cold car and coolant) if moving the heat control and door changes the flow - it doesn't. I believe i have checked when the coolant was hot but will do so again. Also, as of last year i was able to AC the car and split the flow to the floor which i prefer because with panel only the floor area becomes stuffy.

This season it won't split. As of now in bi-level on a hot day there is no floor flow.

i believe i pulled the #12 Fuse before but I remember being unsure which box that fuse is and both or all boxes with a #12 aren't labeled heater or climate control.

I'd love to try a system/software reset but i don't know how. This is a 2019 XL with a manual one-zone climate system so there is no screen to control climate, and I don't know what an FCIM is.

I thought the mode and blend door motors were -B while the recirc. was -A. I was only hoping that the motor was duplicated so i could try a swap (I live miles from a Ford Dealer, i'm basically broke and can't afford their diagnostics and am looking for the Rube Goldberg diagnosis trick so i can fix it myself or live with it - for example if it's a sticking door its game over as there is no way i could afford the whole system box or the R&R dashboard labor.

I've included some photos of the 5 door positions (visual). I have a video of the range and smoothness of the cams

but it's too big to send other than as a text. I'll look into getting the diag. cable and software too.

Thanks,
Jim d.

sorry about the big photos without labels.
there are two identical panel photos so they go:

panel
panel
panel-floor
floor
floor-defrost
defrost
off

so for my problem the obd ii and forscan sound like a no-go?
jim d

p.s. anybody know how to send a 77 mb video from an apple phone? says its too big to attach.
it would only show the cams working smoothly and in coordination with the follower and stopping in five positions but im guessing that being off a few degrees in the panel-floor setting keeps the door from allowing more floor air to pass (the floor door seems quite open in panel-floor setting and less so in the defrost-floor setting.

 

[airline tech]

i just checked (with a cold car and coolant) if moving the heat control and door changes the flow - it doesn't. I believe i have checked when the coolant was hot but will do so again. Also, as of last year i was able to AC the car and split the flow to the floor which i prefer because with panel only the floor area becomes stuffy.

This season it won't split. As of now in bi-level on a hot day there is no floor flow.

i believe i pulled the #12 Fuse before but I remember being unsure which box that fuse is and both or all boxes with a #12 aren't labeled heater or climate control.

I'd love to try a system/software reset but i don't know how. This is a 2019 XL with a manual one-zone climate system so there is no screen to control climate, and I don't know what an FCIM is.

I thought the mode and blend door motors were -B while the recirc. was -A. I was only hoping that the motor was duplicated so i could try a swap (I live miles from a Ford Dealer, i'm basically broke and can't afford their diagnostics and am looking for the Rube Goldberg diagnosis trick so i can fix it myself or live with it - for example if it's a sticking door its game over as there is no way i could afford the whole system box or the R&R dashboard labor.

I've included some photos of the 5 door positions (visual). I have a video of the range and smoothness of the cams

but it's too big to send other than as a text. I'll look into getting the diag. cable and software too.

Thanks,
Jim d.

I did not catch this at first look, but IDK for sure what the part number is for the (Air Distribution) actuator - The diagram above is misleading.
I was incorrect on my initial look, as item 13 is the (Air Inlet Door) actuator.
Item #15 is for the (Temp Door) actuators - as the Automatic systems have one on each side which the diagram depicts.
It does not show the (Air Distribution) door actuator.
I went through my various pics of the HVAC and cannot locate a close up pic (showing the P/N)
So I am rescinding my part number statement, until for now, until a online pic can be found.

FYI - Fuse 12 is in the (Cabin Fuse Box) AKA BCM as the fuses are mounted on the front of it.
The FCIM is the Front Controls Interface Module, it is the front panel with the buttons for climate control. The is basically the HVAC control module as its the primary function of it.

Since I have the Automatic system and can only verify operation of indication, does the manual buttons light up when (Bi-Level) is selected?
As the FCIM itself may be the root cause, if the actuator is not receiving the request for Bi-Level position (Panel/Floor) or (Floor/Defrost), this is another reason for Live Data - you can use the tool as the switches and bypass the FCIM switches to check operation (inputs)

 

[airline tech]

I confirmed all the actuator part numbers are the same - AB3Z-19E616-B except the Air Inlet Door Actuator (Recirculation) which is a (-A)
So yes the (Mode Door) and (Temp Door) are the same part number

 

[dokkerdam]

I did not catch this at first look, but IDK for sure what the part number is for the (Air Distribution) actuator - The diagram above is misleading.
I was incorrect on my initial look, as item 13 is the (Air Inlet Door) actuator.
Item #15 is for the (Temp Door) actuators - as the Automatic systems have one on each side which the diagram depicts.
It does not show the (Air Distribution) door actuator.
I went through my various pics of the HVAC and cannot locate a close up pic (showing the P/N)
So I am rescinding my part number statement, until for now, until a online pic can be found.

FYI - Fuse 12 is in the (Cabin Fuse Box) AKA BCM as the fuses are mounted on the front of it.
The FCIM is the Front Controls Interface Module, it is the front panel with the buttons for climate control. The is basically the HVAC control module as its the primary function of it.

Since I have the Automatic system and can only verify operation of indication, does the manual buttons light up when (Bi-Level) is selected?
As the FCIM itself may be the root cause, if the actuator is not receiving the request for Bi-Level position (Panel/Floor) or (Floor/Defrost), this is another reason for Live Data - you can use the tool as the switches and bypass the FCIM switches to check operation (inputs)

if I'm correct fuse 12 is bundled with 13 and i believe i pulled it before. i pulled it again this morning and it disables the sync and fcim. after i replaced it the fault remains.

is there another way to reset the manual system?

and yes, the bi-level command is echoed by the lit panel and floor buttons (photo).

when commanded, the cam moves to an intermediate position somewhere between full panel and full floor. i just don't know if it's the correct position and does a degree or three move the door just enough to add or limit the floor flow?

one other thing came to mind (when i pulled the #12 fuse which affected the sync): i have an ongoing radio problem where the radio functions freeze occasionally to the point where i can't even turn the radio off. i have to pull over and shut the vehicle off, open and shut the driver's door and hope that resets the radio. i run an old but up to date ipod and the iterface is terrible. i think the problem is ford's. i've phoned ford several times and it has been noted by them that the sync reset function does not work on my radio. this problem has been going on for years and the AC bi-level problem is less than a year old. also i remember in colder weather being able to split the panel and floor and i would get warmer stronger flow from the floor.

 

[dokkerdam]

I confirmed all the actuator part numbers are the same - AB3Z-19E616-B except the Air Inlet Door Actuator (Recirculation) which is a (-A)
So yes the (Mode Door) and (Temp Door) are the same part number

Roger. i know these motors have little electrical racetracks and fingers inside for positioning. i'm thinking my mode motor is slightly failing in that one postion and swapping them might indicate that. or it might be software. or some physical problem with the doors BUT i can get full floor or panel or defrost without binding or clicking noises so the actual physical flow issue shouldn't be mechanical.

thanks for that diagram of the column. i had already removed the lower plastic cover but stopped there.

when i remove the four bolts does the column drop to the floor/seat but remain connected at the universal to get at the motor from above?

for years i would work on car radios and i even installed a glideslope, transponder and encoder under the panel of a 1965 C150. now i'm 64 and can't fit or extricate myself under these toys. even worse, if i can get to something then i find that i can't focus with or without my eyeglassed on. everything is just beyond bare eyes but are closer than the reading lenses.

i wish it were a 1967 Bronco where i could fix the heater system with a ball peen hammer and an oil tin.

 

[DonovanJM]

I hope you get this figured out. I have the same issue on my 21. I get good air flow when it's on floor, vents, or defrost individually and even mixed floor/defrost. But if I try and mix vent and floor I get practically zero flow through either. Lots of noise though. I had the dealer look at it and they said it was normal compared to other Rangers.

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