150 watt 120 Power Inverter location

[fob63]

Is this located in the rear of the center console?

I have a yellow blinking LED. I want to check the F81 40 amp circuit at the red wire on 12-pin connector, for power without taking the fuse block apart.
I tried a few different low wattage items with the same results.
The F23 10 amp fuse that turns on the Inverter and checks load to BCM is the same fuse as door locks and they work.
It won't reset and I have never used it before yesterday.
I don't believe there are any options in ForScan to program.

Thanks

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[RangerBill]

Is this located in the rear of the center console?

I have a yellow blinking LED. I want to check the F81 40 amp circuit at the red wire on 12-pin connector, for power without taking the fuse block apart.
I tried a few different low wattage items with the same results.
The F23 10 amp fuse that turns on the Inverter and checks load to BCM is the same fuse as door locks and they work.
It won't reset and I have never used it before yesterday.
I don't believe there are any options in ForScan to program.

Thanks

It is probably a blown F81 fuse in the BJB. Check for power on connector C2239 pin 5 (fed by F23) and pin 6 (fed by F81). C22239 is located on the DC/AC converter.

 

[fob63]

Thanks!
Gee-whiz , I was hoping for an easier access.

 

[airline tech]

The DC / AC Invertor is located just below the Headlight Switch

Pin #5 = Fuse 23 - Brown / Yellow
Pin #6 = Fuse 81 - Red
on that 12-Pin connector

Most Likely - Fuse 81 is blown, and you may try a BCM - Self Test (reset) if it has coded to get it to reset the code.

 

[fob63]

thanks

 

[airline tech]

The frustration part is , that the manual location does not match physical location as I cannot locate it - physically

 

[airline tech]

Update:
I see now as I found it - this pic is showing the location of the Invertor, and it is there.
However, the pic has the BCM removed for clarity - so if you look around the back side of the BCM (Fuse Box) you will see the side of the Invertor and the attaching bracket.
I knew it was there, I just never really took the time to actually locate it.

This is the side you can see and the labels.

If you move the seat all the way back, you can snake your head forward enough to see the bottom of the invertor and see the connector, or you can by feel reach up and disconnect it.

From another post the harness should drop low enough for T/Shoot - (Power)
However, this is from a truck that I believe did not have the invertor installed as it was tapped.
It may be easier to just pull the (BJB) and get access to the bottom for Fuse #81. It depends on how much slack that harness has and will it drop low enough for easy wire checks.

 

[fob63]

Thanks so much!
I’ll pull the battery fuse box though.

 

[Grandaccess]

I would like to switch it out for something usable! a minimum of 1500W a 2200W pure sign wave is a sweet spot
WTF can you run off 150W?
I blew my fuse months ago never bothered to replace it....

 

[EJH]

I would like to switch it out for something usable! a minimum of 1500W a 2200W pure sign wave is a sweet spot
WTF can you run off 150W?
I blew my fuse months ago never bothered to replace it....

From my research and installation on an inverter in my travel travel, 1000W and up you probably need more than the stock battery and wiring. I have a 100AH LiFePo battery in my trailer with a 700W inverter (Both Renogy). Stepping up to 1000W, the recommendation is 2x batteries to source enough current. Inverters have about a 20% loss (worst case), which means a 1000W inverter may source 1200W, which at 12V is 100A current. The stock battery and wiring is unlikely to support that.

Easier option would be to replace with a 300-500W inverter, which I bet the stock wiring could handle. That would still allow more usage than 150W.

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