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Clicking Noise

yuck6

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Hello all. I have a new clicking noise that happens when braking. I recently had my brakes done and about a week later the noise started. It isn’t on every brake application and only happens at lower speeds. I brought it back to the shop that did the breaks and they found that the tie rods were loose. Tightened them up and then went for a drive and it still made the noise and they were a little loose again. They recommended to change the tie rods as the looseness may have messed up the bushing. He said they aren’t that expensive and it’s a good place to start. Going to do that on Monday. But I figured I should ask the hive mind if anyone has had similar problems. Also worth noting the sound is more prevalent on the drivers side. If I roll down the passenger side it’s more muffled and much louder when drivers window is rolled down



I’ve attached a video and it happens twice. Once in the beginning and once at the end.

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airline tech

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If it were Tie Rod Ends - you would feel it in the steering wheel as you could induce the pop when turning, plus you would have a steering wheel shake.

To me it sounds like a pad (out of place) and rocking as you apply the brake, did they pull it apart and inspect the calipers?
and or
CV Joint:
Try an open parking lot and get it into low speed hard turns (left & right)

Were all brakes done or just the fronts?

If it were me, I would pull it apart and inspect - paying attention to this detail

NOTICE: Make sure the brake pads are installed in the correct position. The inner brake pads are not interchangeable from right-to-left. The outboard brake pads can be installed on either side of the vehicle. Failure to install the brake pads in the correct position may result in damage to the brake components.

This I believe MAY be the issue, if you look at the I/B Pad, the wear indicator (squealer) should be orientated downward, if you can see the indicator mounted upwards (they are backwards)

Now I have not done the Ranger yet, but the new pads may or may not be marked (L/R), it's the attention to detail on when you remove the pads.

NOTE: The notice I posted above is the ONLY mention of this in the manual.
 
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yuck6

yuck6

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I'm sure you have already checked the obvious, but your title reminded me of Henry Cho's bit

Never seen that one before, got a good laugh.
 
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yuck6

yuck6

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If it were Tie Rod Ends - you would feel it in the steering wheel as you could induce the pop when turning, plus you would have a steering wheel shake.

To me it sounds like a pad (out of place) and rocking as you apply the brake, did they pull it apart and inspect the calipers?
and or
CV Joint:
Try an open parking lot and get it into low speed hard turns (left & right)

Were all brakes done or just the fronts?

If it were me, I would pull it apart and inspect - paying attention to this detail

NOTICE: Make sure the brake pads are installed in the correct position. The inner brake pads are not interchangeable from right-to-left. The outboard brake pads can be installed on either side of the vehicle. Failure to install the brake pads in the correct position may result in damage to the brake components.

This I believe MAY be the issue, if you look at the I/B Pad, the wear indicator (squealer) should be orientated downward, if you can see the indicator mounted upwards (they are backwards)

Now I have not done the Ranger yet, but the new pads may or may not be marked (L/R), it's the attention to detail on when you remove the pads.

NOTE: The notice I posted above is the ONLY mention of this in the manual.
I’m going to have him take a look on Monday as that seems like a likely possibility. I did get the Powerstop brakes and rotors I wonder if they are Marked I’ll have to call tomorrow and talk with them. Thank you for the detailed response.
 


airline tech

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If it started after brake work it is in the brakes.
This is where my thought is at, I could be wrong, but it does need a deeper look to ensure security.
The proposed Tie Rod ends would be a DEEPER - Thud Pop

The noise I hear - is a pad rocking and snapping around. (appears) as I am using the resonation of the sound coming off the vented rotor. Again, I am not at the truck and only using the short video sound as my reference.

1. Be it a stuck piston (dual piston calipers) cocking the inner pad sideways.
2. Inner pads installed (opposite sides)
3. Pads not fully seated into the anti-rattle clips.
 

5thranger

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This is where my thought is at, I could be wrong, but it does need a deeper look to ensure security.
The proposed Tie Rod ends would be a DEEPER - Thud Pop

The noise I hear - is a pad rocking and snapping around. (appears) as I am using the resonation of the sound coming off the vented rotor. Again, I am not at the truck and only using the short video sound as my reference.

1. Be it a stuck piston (dual piston calipers) cocking the inner pad sideways.
2. Inner pads installed (opposite sides)
3. Pads not fully seated into the anti-rattle clips.
Likely just pads or hardware or both installed incorrectly
 

Friday yet?

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Dammit. I'm to the age where I think "Screw that. Don't want to do it. So I'm just going to pay someone to do the brake jobs from now on." Then I read something like this thread. Sigh....
 
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yuck6

yuck6

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Here is a new video of the truck on a lift and you can see lots of movement. Brake pads were checked and seemed to not be the issue.

 
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yuck6

yuck6

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Video 2

 
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yuck6

yuck6

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video. 3

 
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yuck6

yuck6

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Just to add it’s a 2020 with 81000 miles on it. So not a super old truck.
 
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yuck6

yuck6

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going to swap out motor mounts



 

airline tech

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Good Find, so it appears that the (Clicking) noise is still the sound (of the pads) due to the knuckle and rotor movement. (as you drive and hit the brakes)
Due to the Motor and UCA shifting, as with it on the lift you cannot produce the (clicking) noise.
The motor shift is (twisting) the CV Shaft thus twisting the UCA which in turn is shifting the rotor.
When you hit the brakes, the pads are shifting from the rotor movement.
So, it's the chain of movements that are producing the clicking sound.
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