What did you do to your Ranger today?

[SD4160]

Sigh… just my luck I get sent the wrong rear shock with my lift… which btw I never got any shipping notification on these at all… they just showed up and now I gotta send one back and wait for the other fun fun… plus side the install seems like a pain but not to awful tbh more work then doing my tacoma but nothing a pizza and a buddy and a couple hours can’t do. Anyone install their own lift and can give me some advice with these trucks that would be great!

I'm hoping to be putting mine in next week. I do have the benefit of my co-worker having a 3 car garage with a lift to work in though. If we hit any snags I'll give you a heads up.

Sponsored

 

[Fredo]

Just finished up the bed rack install, heading to pick up a tent in an hour.

 

[SD4160]

Just finished up the bed rack install, heading to pick up a tent in an hour.

Very nice. Is that the 12" RCI with the tonneau adapter brackets?

Look like any loss of seal on the rail gasket around the adapter?

 

[Venom_z89]

Sigh… just my luck I get sent the wrong rear shock with my lift… which btw I never got any shipping notification on these at all… they just showed up and now I gotta send one back and wait for the other fun fun… plus side the install seems like a pain but not to awful tbh more work then doing my tacoma but nothing a pizza and a buddy and a couple hours can’t do. Anyone install their own lift and can give me some advice with these trucks that would be great!

if your 4x4 add a very small amount to your axle splines when putting back in to keep from seizing together later on. rear shocks should have left the banding strap on until fitting up to the truck as they're a bit hard to compress. lift and block from the frame and droop out the rear suspension to install rear shocks. also if you're 4x4 you will need a 32mm if I recall correctly size socket.

 

[Rhino]

if your 4x4 add a very small amount to your axle splines when putting back in to keep from seizing together later on. rear shocks should have left the banding strap on until fitting up to the truck as they're a bit hard to compress. lift and block from the frame and droop out the rear suspension to install rear shocks. also if you're 4x4 you will need a 32mm if I recall correctly size socket.

There was no banding strap… atm I’m not very happy with the company I ordered from they are not responding to my emails or my msgs…

 

[Rhino]

That takes a whole lot of "don't give a shit" at the packaging department to get this result. I'm sort of impressed.

Dude no kidding atm I’m not to happy with stage 3….

Hey Jacob,

You may have already read some of this but here are are a few things not always included in the YouTube videos to help you avoid some pitfalls and make it easier.

• Jack up both sides of the truck and place on jack stands or use a hoist - do not try this by jacking one side, swapping it out, then moving to the other side - you will likely pop an anti-sway bar link
• Remove the caliper and rotor - they are crazy heavy when heavy is what you don't need - especially at re-assembly (adds 10 mins max)
• Remove the axle nut and push the CV out of the knuckle and tuck it out of the way - you DO NOT want to pop your CV - I zip tied mine to the sway bar
• Remove the anti-sway bar link from the knuckle and loosen both sway bar mounts
• Have your front end alignment appointment set up for the next day

Sure, these steps add a bit of extra time and effort, but they make it so easy to move the knuckle around and to get that upper ball joint re-attached. You also won't pop your CV or an anti-sway bar link and you won't get frustrated trying to get your new, taller strut into a space designed for one that's 2-1/2" shorter.

Good Luck!

Appreciate the extra info man thanks!

I'm hoping to be putting mine in next week. I do have the benefit of my co-worker having a 3 car garage with a lift to work in though. If we hit any snags I'll give you a heads up.

Appreciate it man thanks!

if your 4x4 add a very small amount to your axle splines when putting back in to keep from seizing together later on. rear shocks should have left the banding strap on until fitting up to the truck as they're a bit hard to compress. lift and block from the frame and droop out the rear suspension to install rear shocks. also if you're 4x4 you will need a 32mm if I recall correctly size socket.

Yes I’m 4x4 forgot to mention that in the other msg

 

[OFC Ranger]

Dude no kidding atm I’m not to happy with stage 3….

Stage 3 probably has that stuff drop shipped. 50/50 chance they even have their hands physically on a product they sell.

 

[Rhino]

Stage 3 probably has that stuff drop shipped. 50/50 chance they even have their hands physically on a product they sell.

Ya unsure tbh

 

[zn105]

This is exactly what I'm doing to my truck hopefully in the next week. Only difference is the wheels. Looks great!

What did you do with the crash bars?

They do not rub under normal driving but appears that the front may hit if the wheels flex up while turning. Will experiment some and report back.

What wheels did you go with?

Factory wheels no spacers.

 

[Venom_z89]

Stage 3 probably has that stuff drop shipped. 50/50 chance they even have their hands physically on a product they sell.

@Rhino yea most stuff I've ordered through stage 3 is drop ship. although they're pretty good about responding usually in a day or same day, but first call and speak with someone. I had an issue with my leaf springs and got it resolved rather quick

 

[Rhino]

@Rhino yea most stuff I've ordered through stage 3 is drop ship. although they're pretty good about responding usually in a day or same day, but first call and speak with someone. I had an issue with my leaf springs and got it resolved rather quick

I called em and they gave me the email to do a rma with I got the robot response saying to wait until I get a person so that’s what I’m doing I guess… just slightly annoying

 

[Rhino]

Hey Jacob,

You may have already read some of this but here are are a few things not always included in the YouTube videos to help you avoid some pitfalls and make it easier.

• Jack up both sides of the truck and place on jack stands or use a hoist - do not try this by jacking one side, swapping it out, then moving to the other side - you will likely pop an anti-sway bar link
• Remove the caliper and rotor - they are crazy heavy when heavy is what you don't need - especially at re-assembly (adds 10 mins max)
• Remove the axle nut and push the CV out of the knuckle and tuck it out of the way - you DO NOT want to pop your CV - I zip tied mine to the sway bar
• Remove the anti-sway bar link from the knuckle and loosen both sway bar mounts
• Have your front end alignment appointment set up for the next day

Sure, these steps add a bit of extra time and effort, but they make it so easy to move the knuckle around and to get that upper ball joint re-attached. You also won't pop your CV or an anti-sway bar link and you won't get frustrated trying to get your new, taller strut into a space designed for one that's 2-1/2" shorter.

Good Luck!

I forgot to ask but would you replace any of the nuts or bolts or just re use the existing and put lock tight on em?

 

[Glocker]

Stage 3 probably has that stuff drop shipped. 50/50 chance they even have their hands physically on a product they sell.

This. The company that stocks and ships their stuff is a mess.

 

[Rhino]

After calling and sending emails I finally got it sorted out and a new rear shock is being sent out so that’s good!

 

[mokupilot]

New face.

Ford Performance grille with original surround from my Tremor grille, slightly modified to fit together.

Sponsored