Extended flares, but without the dumb gas-door cut out?

[Msfitoy]

For just the fuel door I would suspect you could do it just fine with most printers out there. The fender flare on the otherhand I would just but and modify

My Ender 3 has a build box of 220x 220y 220z...plenty of room...but I think a block will gather more attention than the black vinyl I've placed there to visually fill in the void...especially the swing clearance needed at the front end...

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[khyros]

My Ender 3 has a build box of 220x 220y 220z...plenty of room...but I think a block will gather more attention than the black vinyl I've placed there to visually fill in the void...especially the swing clearance needed at the front end...

Looking at that picture, I think you could design it such that the outer visible edge wouldn't have a notch for the hinge. Obviously the bottom left corner is the area of concern, but the height of the flare right there is relatively small. Notch the backside of the flare (such that you don't have contact between the fuel door flare and the fuel door in the bottom left corner), and grow it as a trapezoid to the final surface area. I *think* between the gap in the flare to the door (and keeping the same gap on the door itself), there's only going to be about 10mm that you need to gain additional clearance for, and your top surface will clear overtop the flare...

 

[Msfitoy]

Looking at that picture, I think you could design it such that the outer visible edge wouldn't have a notch for the hinge. Obviously the bottom left corner is the area of concern, but the height of the flare right there is relatively small. Notch the backside of the flare (such that you don't have contact between the fuel door flare and the fuel door in the bottom left corner), and grow it as a trapezoid to the final surface area. I *think* between the gap in the flare to the door (and keeping the same gap on the door itself), there's only going to be about 10mm that you need to gain additional clearance for, and your top surface will clear overtop the flare...

Hi Jeff...not to be Debby Downer but you ever notice the hideous notch on thick door claddings? That's due to door swing clearance...allowing for this swing will make the add on ten times worse...

 

[OFC Ranger]

I'm thinking a magnet backed piece would work. If the door is aluminum, add magnets to the inside. Then you don't need clearance, just pop it off when you get gas.

 

[Frenchy]

I'm thinking a magnet backed piece would work. If the door is aluminum, add magnets to the inside. Then you don't need clearance, just pop it off when you get gas.

Just make sure the magnets stick to the door in some way.

 

[OFC Ranger]

Just make sure the magnets stick to the door in some way.

Well yea, the magnets on the inside of the gas door would need to be secured.

 

[khyros]

Hi Jeff...not to be Debby Downer but you ever notice the hideous notch on thick door claddings? That's due to door swing clearance...allowing for this swing will make the add on ten times worse...

Yup, but there are two huge differences between the two instances... First, the door cladding is perpendicular to the axis of motion. There's only a very small amount of overlap that needs to be dealt with on the fuel door scenario. But second and more importantly, there's a large difference between the two in regards to the distance between the pivot axis and the cladding - when you open your rear passenger door, the body panel stays tucked up real tight to the front door. When you open your fuel door, it actual pivots away from the body of the truck. This makes it so that the extruded rotation of travel is further away from the existing cladding, yielding to not only less overlap, but the point of contact of overlap is (potentially) not at the cladding surface.

I concur that scans would be required in order to mock up everything to determine clearances, but I was putting a suggestion on there on overall design strategy. The easy answer is to do the divot like on the doors, but the full effect of that might not be required due to the above two points, and a subset of the divot maybe sufficient.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I've got another idea. What if I re-fabricate the factory hinge for the door cap to be on the roof of the inside instead of the left of side. (gull wing door gas cap!)

 

[OFC Ranger]

Yup, but there are two huge differences between the two instances... First, the door cladding is perpendicular to the axis of motion. There's only a very small amount of overlap that needs to be dealt with on the fuel door scenario. But second and more importantly, there's a large difference between the two in regards to the distance between the pivot axis and the cladding - when you open your rear passenger door, the body panel stays tucked up real tight to the front door. When you open your fuel door, it actual pivots away from the body of the truck. This makes it so that the extruded rotation of travel is further away from the existing cladding, yielding to not only less overlap, but the point of contact of overlap is (potentially) not at the cladding surface.

I concur that scans would be required in order to mock up everything to determine clearances, but I was putting a suggestion on there on overall design strategy. The easy answer is to do the divot like on the doors, but the full effect of that might not be required due to the above two points, and a subset of the divot maybe sufficient.

I just realized looking at this photo, clearance may not even be a thing...

Ill get the tape measure out tomorrow.

Edit: You know ideally it would be great if one had a spare flare. Then you could just cut out a section, fab it up to close off the openings from the cut and bam done deal with same curvature.

The guy I bought my Bushwacker extendos from gave me a pair of the RTR front bumper extensions, but they didn't really match up. I wonder if I could butcher one of them for this gas door project.

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