Window Trim Puckers

[rdgallo]

Hi Ron,

Same here. So I just used my fingertips to push the seal home where the bulged area is located. Seal is nice and strait. Sealing has never been an issue. All of one minute a side...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Phil, I have pushed it back many times and it just comes right back like the picture shows. I pushed several back on trucks sitting at the dealer and they spring right back out of place. I believe Ford needs to take a look at this. My rear door window seals are not really good either, but not as bad as the fronts.

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[2020FX4]

My truck has this too.... I noticed it a few weeks ago when I was washing it. I agree with the OP, I too came from an F150 and the build quality was definitely better on the F series.

 

[CO2Ranger]

Mine are the same. I thought it was the guy that did the tint job, but I guess it's factory.
Any idea if hitting it with a heat gun could help if done properly?

 

[Housemanager]

My dealer is going to replace two seals, saying it is just not right. While at the dealer I walked around the lot and every one of the Rangers had the same issue. Not sure where the "new" seals will come from. It has been a while since this started prior to the virus uptick.

 

[rdgallo]

My dealer is going to replace two seals, saying it is just not right. While at the dealer I walked around the lot and every one of the Rangers had the same issue. Not sure where the "new" seals will come from. It has been a while since this started prior to the virus uptick.

Please post the results of your seal replacement once done. Good luck. I believe Ford needs to take a look at their design dimensions of the seal and the window opening. If these are correct, then someone needs to check the seals and the doors to make sure they are conforming. Something definitely is not correct.

 

[rdgallo]

I would like to make Ford aware of this seal issue, but if I contact their Customer Care, they will just generate whatever they do and leave it up to the dealer to replace the seals. It seems that all of the trucks have this issue; so, having the dealer replace the seals would not do anything as far as a permanent resolution. Is there a way to just make Ford aware of the problem and let them come up with a fix?

 

[AzScorpion]

Mine have the issue but hasn't shown any signs of leakage. I've chalked it up to a "meh" experience as I rarely even notice it. The only other issue I've had with my truck was resolved by a TSB so it may be that you just got a bad luck build.

Only my front passengers side is doing this but not even as bad as the OP's. I'm pretty OCD and this really doesn't bother me,it would if it were to completely come off though.

I'm curious if it has anything to do with the black plastic film between the two doors? There's been a few on here who have removed it and it's painted the truck color underneath. Maybe they will see this and chime in as to whether theirs are doing this to?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Phil, I have pushed it back many times and it just comes right back like the picture shows. I pushed several back on trucks sitting at the dealer and they spring right back out of place. I believe Ford needs to take a look at this. My rear door window seals are not really good either, but not as bad as the fronts.

Hi Ron,

Checked and my seals are still nice and strait. What I did was force the vertical strip down as well as push the bulge in,,,This forced the end that goes below the bottom seal to travel downward just a tad. Seems to work for me. Both sides are still good.

Just use your thumb and pull the seal in a downward manor starting at the top and work your thumb all the way to the lower glass seal. Might work for you too.

Looks like the manufacturer that makes the molded seal has a bit of a quality issue

You can write the Plant Vehicle Team Manager at:
38303 Michigan Ave.
Wayne, Mi 48184
Phone 734-467-0500

Phone call is unlikely to get you anywhere, but try if you like to get to the PVT Engineering

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[rdgallo]

Hi Ron,

Checked and my seals are still nice and strait. What I did was force the vertical strip down as well as push the bulge in,,,This forced the end that goes below the bottom seal to travel downward just a tad. Seems to work for me. Both sides are still good.

Just use your thumb and pull the seal in a downward manor starting at the top and work your thumb all the way to the lower glass seal. Might work for you too.

Looks like the manufacturer that makes the molded seal has a bit of a quality issue

You can write the Plant Vehicle Team Manager at:
38303 Michigan Ave.
Wayne, Mi 48184
Phone 734-467-0500

Phone call is unlikely to get you anywhere, but try if you like to get to the PVT Engineering

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Thanks for the information, Phil. I will try your technique on the seal and report back. One other unrelated question, Phil....are the doors adjustable at all? I have a lot of road noise coming from the passenger side of the truck. The driver's side is quiet, but the passenger side sounds like the doors are not shut tightly. I spent a lot of time looking them over today in an effort to find a difference between the quiet side and the noisy side and did not find anything obvious. I did notice that the driver's side rear door "pops" open when I pull the handle to open it and the noisy side opens without a "pop" like it is not as tightly closed. I really thought something was wrong with the tight side, but because it is quiet, think it might be better than the other side. If I should post this problem as a separate thread, please let me know and I will. Thanks in advance!

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Thanks for the information, Phil. I will try your technique on the seal and report back. One other unrelated question, Phil....are the doors adjustable at all? I have a lot of road noise coming from the passenger side of the truck. The driver's side is quiet, but the passenger side sounds like the doors are not shut tightly. I spent a lot of time looking them over today in an effort to find a difference between the quiet side and the noisy side and did not find anything obvious. I did notice that the driver's side rear door "pops" open when I pull the handle to open it and the noisy side opens without a "pop" like it is not as tightly closed. I really thought something was wrong with the tight side, but because it is quiet, think it might be better than the other side. If I should post this problem as a separate thread, please let me know and I will. Thanks in advance!

Hi Ron,

There is ajustability in the doors, both the hinge side and the latch striker. Adjustments should be based on understand on the source of the noise. In other threads I recommend using a mechanics stethoscope with the plastic diaphram and the steel probe removed. the ear piece and the single tube to which the stethoscope diaphragm was attached makes a very directional tool to analyze door leakage or other possible noise sources

Have someone drive the vehicle in the range of speed where you hear the noise...then search the doors with the end of the tube...the source of the leak will become evident. Then try the back doors and repeat. If it is a sealing and adjustment issue, best to take it back to the dealer with the info you gained from the "development" you found. The mechanic stethoscope is very cheap and available at any automotive parts store. I do not have the link to the thread where my wife discovered the door leak on our RV. The whistle of the door leak almost blew out her ear drums after she learned how to search with the end of the tube. I had resources of tens of thousands of sophisticated sound equipment but in the field the lowly cheap mechanics stethoscope worked more quickly to find wind noise leaks.

Best.
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[rdgallo]

Hi Ron,

There is ajustability in the doors, both the hinge side and the latch striker. Adjustments should be based on understand on the source of the noise. In other threads I recommend using a mechanics stethoscope with the plastic diaphram and the steel probe removed. the ear piece and the single tube to which the stethoscope diaphragm was attached makes a very directional tool to analyze door leakage or other possible noise sources

Have someone drive the vehicle in the range of speed where you hear the noise...then search the doors with the end of the tube...the source of the leak will become evident. Then try the back doors and repeat. If it is a sealing and adjustment issue, best to take it back to the dealer with the info you gained from the "development" you found. The mechanic stethoscope is very cheap and available at any automotive parts store. I do not have the link to the thread where my wife discovered the door leak on our RV. The whistle of the door leak almost blew out her ear drums after she learned how to search with the end of the tube. I had resources of tens of thousands of sophisticated sound equipment but in the field the lowly cheap mechanics stethoscope worked more quickly to find wind noise leaks.

Best.
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Thanks, Phil. I have read your posts about using the stethoscope and as a matter of fact, I purchased one from Amazon. The darned thing had such a strong spring to hold the ear pieces in my ears that it actually was painful to use. I sent it back for a refund. Looks like I better go purchase a new one. Thanks again for your help. By the way, I tried to work the window seal down as you suggested and I guess I am not strong enough. I couldn't get it to move.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Thanks, Phil. I have read your posts about using the stethoscope and as a matter of fact, I purchased one from Amazon. The darned thing had such a strong spring to hold the ear pieces in my ears that it actually was painful to use. I sent it back for a refund. Looks like I better go purchase a new one. Thanks again for your help. By the way, I tried to work the window seal down as you suggested and I guess I am not strong enough. I couldn't get it to move.

Hi Ron,

Take a plastic putty knife or a plastic trim tool and slide it down the seal to "free" it up...then try again. Do both sides if you can. This rubber can stick when baked in the sun... I hope this helps. Sad that you have to do this, but it appears assembly workers just slap the seal onto the door and call it installed. How this missis the Quality inspections is beyond me. I had to attend Ranger Plat Quality Audits when at the plant and I was amazed at the things they flagged. I thought most were like picking fly shit out of the pepper....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[CO2Ranger]

I tried and was able to work the rubber down like you suggested but the bulge is still there. I'm gonna shove some gorilla snot in those spots and see if I can get them to settle.

 

[rdgallo]

Hi Ron,

Take a plastic putty knife or a plastic trim tool and slide it down the seal to "free" it up...then try again. Do both sides if you can. This rubber can stick when baked in the sun... I hope this helps. Sad that you have to do this, but it appears assembly workers just slap the seal onto the door and call it installed. How this missis the Quality inspections is beyond me. I had to attend Ranger Plat Quality Audits when at the plant and I was amazed at the things they flagged. I thought most were like picking fly shit out of the pepper....

best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Thank you, Phil. I also don't know how this type of defect can go undetected at the factory. It is pretty obvious. One of the trucks I checked out at the dealer was a white one, and this really looks bad on it as the white shows in the area the seal should have covered. An assembler would have to be blind or brain dead not to notice it.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

I had the same problem on mine but on the drivers rear door, it also appeared like it just needed to be reseated. It would not though, my neighbor who has never owned a new car in his live wanted to goop it up with weatherstrip glue..which is a noble pursuit to solve someone elses problem [the manufacturers]. Since I had only had it at that point a couple of weeks I brought it back to the stealership's service center and after they ordered the weatherstrip it took 20 minutes to replace at no charge. Maybe my neighbor's method would have worked but if not they would have blamed it on me.
I have noticed a lot of flaws and tolerance issues on many makes of vehicles fit & finish lately. My wife's 2020 escape has an interior a-pillar firment issue where the plastic trim meets the headliner on both sides. It looks like it is also not seated properly. You can see the edge quite a bit where it is not covered by the rubber trim. This is unacceptable. She has an appointment tomorrow.

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