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What did you do to your Ranger today?

Chappy

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I just used some gloss black vinyl i found on ebay and used a heat gun to help stretch it and wrap it around the door handles. It's kind of a pain and doesn't come out perfect (unless you are just really good at wrapping with vinyl), but it still looks better than the stock dull black handles.
Oh, awesome. Thanks! I'll compare using gloss vinyl vs Plastidip.
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Arch Stanton

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Took a picture of my Ranger that was suppose to have the Thule rack installed today except only part of the order showed up lol

Truckinthefield.jpg
Leveled it already? Or just the angle?
 

Mantis

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Installed Weathertech floor mats.

Also got my muffler deleted and had a 4" double wall black tip added while the shop was at it.
 
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HTX1811

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Got half of the leveling kit done. Second half tomorrow. Pic is halfway done on side one.
2ABE5B28-F9F1-4D5E-9948-18F914CC0B89.webp
 
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Jake596

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Curious why you removed the disc brake
 


Mokume

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I had the exact same experience, uncomfortable and bland i hated it and felt spoiled when i got the ranger back
Aren't both you glad you "Escaped" from that loaner? :shock:
 

Mokume

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Got half of the leveling kit done. Second half tomorrow. Pic is halfway done on side one.
2ABE5B28-F9F1-4D5E-9948-18F914CC0B89.jpeg
Can't quite make out what that green rod is, is it to support the spindle so that the outer CV joint does not hyperextend? If so, good man!
That would explain why you removed the caliper/anchor assy. and rotor.
If you have not found out already, attempting to reinsert the upper ball joint stud back into the spindle is close to impossible unless you loosen the upper control arm pivot bolt and allow the arm to hang down sufficiently.
The instructions with my Ford Ranger Lifts 3" kit neglected to say this, but 45 years as a mechanic did.
4x2 models are exactly the same setup, minus the halfshafts.

20200228_155524.jpg
20200228_155543.webp
20200227_111947.webp
 

Mokume

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Here You P.A. TVDVINYLDECALS.com
Got both my grille and dash lettering from TVD, doing the grille took some patience.
Will tackle the dash tomorrow, should be fun, considering they are like 1/8 the size of the grille inserts.
I've had a few beers already, if I attempt the dash letters now they'll either wind up in the trash or on my forehead... :shock:
20200307_185026.webp
 

Mokume

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HTX1811

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It’s a bungie cord holding the brake caliper.
Can't quite make out what that green rod is, is it to support the spindle so that the outer CV joint does not hyperextend? If so, good man!
That would explain why you removed the caliper/anchor assy. and rotor.
If you have not found out already, attempting to reinsert the upper ball joint stud back into the spindle is close to impossible unless you loosen the upper control arm pivot bolt and allow the arm to hang down sufficiently.
The instructions with my Ford Ranger Lifts 3" kit neglected to say this, but 45 years as a mechanic did.
4x2 models are exactly the same setup, minus the halfshafts.

20200228_155524.jpg
20200228_155543.jpg
20200227_111947.jpg
 

James Martincic

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The instructions on my 3” lift says to remove the caliper also.
I used a suspension Specialties lift
 

Mokume

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The instructions on my 3” lift says to remove the caliper also.
I used a suspension Specialties lift
The written instructions provided with my Ford Ranger Lifts leveling kit did not mention removing the caliper, I did so anyway for fear of possibly hyper-extending the hydraulic hose and not having to deal with the spindle flopping around because of the weight.
 

Mokume

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It’s a bungie cord holding the brake caliper.
Yes, I realize that now that another person so eloquently explained...
 

James Martincic

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Aren't both you glad you "Escaped" from that loaner? :shock:
The written instructions provided with my Ford Ranger Lifts leveling kit did not mention removing the caliper, I did so anyway for fear of possibly hyper-extending the hydraulic hose and not having to deal with the spindle flopping around because of the weight.
I couldn’t believe how hard it was to get the strut back in. I actually pulled the joint out of the hub on the transfer side. I would also remove the sway bar link
 

Mokume

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My instructions did say to remove the link, even then it took some wrestling with the strut assy. to get it back into position. I daresay it's impossible to do this without disconnecting the link. You really need to have eaten your Wheaties prior to this...lol

Another member hyper-extended his half shaft, most likely the inner joint was affected. His latest post was that he had to take his truck back to the dealer (towed, no doubt), because of this problem, he was not happy.

Because of this, I strongly suggest all 4x4 owners attempting this installation to remove the axle nut so that splined section of the shaft can move freely within the hub. And, of course, follow shop manual procedures for re-installation.

Based on previous experiences with half-shafts, the inner joint is most likely a cross and roller design, while the outer is a ball and trunion. With the C/R design you'll sometimes get lucky and get the joint to pop back together, sometimes you don't.
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