Who has experience with sliding barn doors?

[OFC Ranger]

So here is what I will have work something up;

Bi-Parting (5 foot wide doors) 10 Foot Opening on and 18 foot wide wall. From my understanding I also need to add 4-6" of overall length on each side so the doors fully cover the opening. Lets make it easy and just work with 6" on each side. The same concept works for height, but that is not the conundrum.

I can buy exactly an 18 foot track system. In a standard install for a ten foot opening you would need a total of a 21 foot track system. 5 feet or each of two doors, then 6" extra for proper seal. Well I could buy a 21 foot track system, but it will look goofy with 1.5 feet of track poking out on both ends of the wall. I don't mind the doors poking out past the wall when fully open, but the tracks sticking out 24/7 would drive me nuts.

My proposed question and resolution; Normally the hardware is installed symmetrical on the door. Two hangers spaced evenly (see picture 1). What if I take the the outside hanger for each door and simply shift it 1.5 feet inwards (see picture 2). This should create the clearance I'm after when fully opened correct? I know this seems like a simple question, but I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

Photos are just an image I grabbed off Google for visualization.

The last photo is an old modeling, but to give you an idea what the end goal is, but is not size correct.

Edit: The second alternative is running bypass quad doors on the inside as I would only have 4 foot of clearance on each side internally before the door would hit a wall. So instead of two 5.5 foot doors I would do four 3 foot doors.

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[Trigganometry]

I did my own slider. It’s really dependent on the weight of your doors. Heavier they are the farther apart you want your rollers for stability. When they rock back and forth they open hard or come off the tracks. There are stops to prevent that though.

Looks like a dual track can be done in a way to move all four sections without the runners protruding past the side walls.

 

[OFC Ranger]

I did my own slider. It’s really dependent on the weight of your doors. Heavier they are the farther apart you want your rollers for stability. When they rock back and forth they open hard or come off the tracks. There are stops to prevent that though.

Looks like a dual track can be done in a way to move all four sections without the runners protruding past the side walls.

Well if I do the bypass tracking I'll just do the tracks on the inside of the wall for a cleaner look.

 

[KNI]

Make a hidden trolley, much more stable and protected from the elements.

To do so just take a square pipe and mill off an adequate width line out from the bottom. Put the trolley in the pipe and the door fixture through the milled line. Bolts on each end of the pipe to prevent the door dropping and a rubber plug to prevent water/snow entering from the side.

For fixing it to the wall you can make adjustable triangular hangers. Then you weld a bolt or fixture on top of the square pipe and you can adjust it to be on straight line.

That's what we use in our barn

If you want it nice, just add two wooden boards to the triangle fixtures. One one top and one on the side...

wth.. I'll draw you a picture (Ez scetch)

Remember, the rail must not be fixed from the ends. There needs to be some free ends in order to minimize moment and subsequent bending in years to come. Can be overcome with adding material strenght (aka cost).

Hanging the door "outboard" of the trolley fixture is there for the door moment to squeeze it against the wall from the bottom.

More stuff, in Finnish..

https://www.hartman.fi/fi/pyorasto-pps-300-500-teras-2-ip-fv33

https://www.hartman.fi/fi/rakennustarvikkeet/helat/liukuoven-osat?p=4

 

[bentroia]

WTH - can a loaded lifted.fun filled FORD F-ING RANGER fit through the hole?

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