Raptor grille with lights issue

[cjmdwyer]

I purchased raptor style grille with 3 led light bars built in. Hooked lights up by tapping the drivers side marker lamp as instructed.
Lights turn on, but then after a few minutes turn of, both the grille lights and the marker lamp.
If i turn the light switch off and back on, they come back on again, but will turn off again, both grille lights and the marker lamp. So weird.
Thinking of hooking them up to the up-fitter switches as for some reason the marker lamp just doesn't like the grille lights being hooked to them.
No idea what could be going on....

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[MoldyTaco]

Is the key on or the truck running? The system is setup to cut the lights off to preserve the battery. I do not remember how long the timer is. This may not be your issue but thought I would throw it out there just in case. I know when I was testing wires for lights I had to keep going back and turning it off and on.

 

[cjmdwyer]

Is the key on or the truck running? The system is setup to cut the lights off to preserve the battery. I do not remember how long the timer is. This may not be your issue but thought I would throw it out there just in case. I know when I was testing wires for lights I had to keep going back and turning it off and on.

Nope, it can be running and as soon as I put it in reverse the left marker lamp and the raptor lights turn off. I ended up hooking them to one of the aux switches on the dash and they work fine hooked to that. Weird stuff…

 

[Volkswilliam]

How did you wire them exactly? I just got a grill with the led lights and can’t figure out how to wire. Thanks!

 

[Jrel209]

I purchased raptor style grille with 3 led light bars built in. Hooked lights up by tapping the drivers side marker lamp as instructed.
Lights turn on, but then after a few minutes turn of, both the grille lights and the marker lamp.
If i turn the light switch off and back on, they come back on again, but will turn off again, both grille lights and the marker lamp. So weird.
Thinking of hooking them up to the up-fitter switches as for some reason the marker lamp just doesn't like the grille lights being hooked to them.
No idea what could be going on....

Which setting is your in cabin light on? If you set them to parking lights they should stay on. If you’re using the furthest right option, which is the auto, you may not realize it but its turning off as intended based on lighting conditions. Do you notice them going off at night?

 

[ems]

Just wondering if anybody might know what the deal is with this? I’m having the same issue: everything works fine, but when I actually turn the engine on, the grille lights and side marker that I’m tapped into both go out after a few seconds (the other side marker stays lit), and will not light again until I’ve turned the key all the way off and back into the acc position (just prior to where it starts the engine). As long as I don’t start the engine, the side marker and grille lights work fine, but if I start it they shut off after a couple seconds. Turning the light setting knob reactivates the lights that are malfunctioning for only half a second, otherwise no effect. Anybody have any input?

 

[Teeman]

Just wondering if anybody might know what the deal is with this? I’m having the same issue: everything works fine, but when I actually turn the engine on, the grille lights and side marker that I’m tapped into both go out after a few seconds (the other side marker stays lit), and will not light again until I’ve turned the key all the way off and back into the acc position (just prior to where it starts the engine). As long as I don’t start the engine, the side marker and grille lights work fine, but if I start it they shut off after a couple seconds. Turning the light setting knob reactivates the lights that are malfunctioning for only half a second, otherwise no effect. Anybody have any input?

I have the same problem - I disconnected 1 of the 3 lights and everything works fine. I guess the 3 lights are too much of a load on the circuit? I have not found an answer yet.

 

[JDowns]

I have the same problem - I disconnected 1 of the 3 lights and everything works fine. I guess the 3 lights are too much of a load on the circuit? I have not found an answer yet.

You could have a bad LED. Does the bad LED get hot? These LED's don't have any sort of circuitry or heat-sinking to avoid a thermal runaway. Eventually it will get hot, draw too much current, and the BCM will turn off the circuit. You should test the LED with a secondary 12VDC power source.

While most of the time tapping into a circuit controlled by the BCM will cause you no problems, and folks get away with it just fine. I was advised by a service manager that if you have a BCM issue the dealer can decline any warranty due to 3rd party components tied into the circuit (even after market LED bulbs). The BCM keeps an event counter of failures on the circuit that the dealer can read and clear after a system self test has been performed. Too many faults on a circuit and the BCM will permanently turn off the circuit and issue a DTC until it can be dealer serviced. The BCM uses FET's to protect the circuits. If you brick a FET there is no replacing it like a fuse, you need to replace the entire BCM.

 

[Teeman]

You could have a bad LED. Does the bad LED get hot? These LED's don't have any sort of circuitry or heat-sinking to avoid a thermal runaway. Eventually it will get hot, draw too much current, and the BCM will turn off the circuit. You should test the LED with a secondary 12VDC power source.

While most of the time tapping into a circuit controlled by the BCM will cause you no problems, and folks get away with it just fine. I was advised by a service manager that if you have a BCM issue the dealer can decline any warranty due to 3rd party components tied into the circuit (even after market LED bulbs). The BCM keeps an event counter of failures on the circuit that the dealer can read and clear after a system self test has been performed. Too many faults on a circuit and the BCM will permanently turn off the circuit and issue a DTC until it can be dealer serviced. The BCM uses FET's to protect the circuits. If you brick a FET there is no replacing it like a fuse, you need to replace the entire BCM.

I’ve disconnected each bulb independently and get the same results. 2 lights are fine. 3 seems to just be too much of a draw for the circuit. I’m thinking of just putting an in line resistor into the wiring of the lights to see if that might fix the problem? Finding a lower level bulb might be difficult.

All suggestions are appreciated!

 

[JDowns]

I’ve disconnected each bulb independently and get the same results. 2 lights are fine. 3 seems to just be too much of a draw for the circuit. I’m thinking of just putting an in line resistor into the wiring of the lights to see if that might fix the problem? Finding a lower level bulb might be difficult.

All suggestions are appreciated!

If (3) LED's are too much current, then adding a resistor is just going to increase the current draw. When individuals replace halogens with LED's and need a resistor, this is due to too little current being drawn on the circuit and the BCM issuing a fault, hyper-blinking, etc. Adding the resistor, which needs to be mounted to a heat-sink (solid metal) increases the current and mimicking the current draw of a halogen, as the circuit (BCM) thinks that there is a bulb blown out or a possible power to ground fault.

I previously had my grille lights, side lights, and running board lights all hooked up to the side markers. Never had a problem, but was advised by a service manager to not do that as I could run into a warranty issue. I've since run all LED's with constant current driver(s) and hooked up to the up fitters. I do loose some key on/off functionality, auto dimming, but avoid any warranty issues.

It sounds like you have an over current issue or bad or undersized wiring somewhere. If you have a multimeter you could test the current draw of the (3) LED's as that will help pinpoint issues.

 

[JDowns]

Just wondering if anybody might know what the deal is with this? I’m having the same issue: everything works fine, but when I actually turn the engine on, the grille lights and side marker that I’m tapped into both go out after a few seconds (the other side marker stays lit), and will not light again until I’ve turned the key all the way off and back into the acc position (just prior to where it starts the engine). As long as I don’t start the engine, the side marker and grille lights work fine, but if I start it they shut off after a couple seconds. Turning the light setting knob reactivates the lights that are malfunctioning for only half a second, otherwise no effect. Anybody have any input?

The side marker lights are daylight sensitive as DRL's. You can change the DRL functionality in FORSCAN to include the side marker / rear marker lights to always be on as a DRL. Otherwise the side markers and grille lights will only come on in darker situations.

See @Jrel209 post above. If they always work with the light switch in "C" and not auto then this is your issue.

 

[Teeman]

If (3) LED's are too much current, then adding a resistor is just going to increase the current draw. When individuals replace halogens with LED's and need a resistor, this is due to too little current being drawn on the circuit and the BCM issuing a fault, hyper-blinking, etc. Adding the resistor, which needs to be mounted to a heat-sink (solid metal) increases the current and mimicking the current draw of a halogen, as the circuit (BCM) thinks that there is a bulb blown out or a possible power to ground fault.

I previously had my grille lights, side lights, and running board lights all hooked up to the side markers. Never had a problem, but was advised by a service manager to not do that as I could run into a warranty issue. I've since run all LED's with constant current driver(s) and hooked up to the up fitters. I do loose some key on/off functionality, auto dimming, but avoid any warranty issues.

It sounds like you have an over current issue or bad or undersized wiring somewhere. If you have a multimeter you could test the current draw of the (3) LED's as that will help pinpoint issues.

Thanks - this seemingly simple task has become way to complicated - maybe the best answer is to just disconnect and be done with it?

 

[JDowns]

Thanks - this seemingly simple task has become way to complicated - maybe the best answer is to just disconnect and be done with it?

I wouldn't get discouraged. You can test the circuit with a multimeter, or if you've purchased a bad set then return them, and/or purchase a set from a reputable source like the @Stage3Motorsports grille lights kit.

I only mention the BCM issue to help educate people of possible warranty issues and alternate methods of installation. 99% of the time any aftermarket LED kits whether they be grille lights, plug and play LED halogen replacements, etc, don't cause any issues. It just sucks when you are the 1%, have an issue, and run into further problems usually due to cheap Chinese knock-offs, or suppliers with poor QC.

 

[Md22]

Have you solved this issue? I have the same problem. The grille lights work perfect if I take out the bulb on the marker light

 

[Truthofval]

Nope, it can be running and as soon as I put it in reverse the left marker lamp and the raptor lights turn off. I ended up hooking them to one of the aux switches on the dash and they work fine hooked to that. Weird stuff…

What do you mean aux switch on the dash can you walk me through? Mine kept shutting off too, I got the same bar lights too I bet

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