OEM running boards torque specs

[Ranger Roger]

Anyone know the torque specs for installing OEM running board bolts? Also only bolts provided, no lock washers. Bought them from another forum member who gave me all hardware. Someone on another thread said to use Loctite Blue. Another said he calculated torque for a grade 8.8 bolt but didn’t mention what is was—don’t really understand his remark.

Sponsored

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Anyone know the torque specs for installing OEM running board bolts? Also only bolts provided, no lock washers. Bought them from another forum member who gave me all hardware. Someone on another thread said to use Loctite Blue. Another said he calculated torque for a grade 8.8 bolt but didn’t mention what is was—don’t really understand his remark.

Hi Roger,

I cannot speak exactly for the running boards, but let me express my opinion on these fasteners. First is that in all likelihood, they are metric and thus not Grade 8. Likely these are 10.3. Grade 8 by the way are excellent in clamp load but lousy in shear and for a running board the fasteners are in shear, so grade 5 would be better...Most folks do not get this, but as part of my job, I had a fastener engineer, Steve M....what a learning curve I got from Steve....

Ford rarely uses lock washers for OEM parts. In an assembly plant, the time to pick up a bolt, slide an lock washer in, not drop it and install with a nut is way too time consuming. We use trapped washers, UBS flange nuts etc. It would be rare to find a lock washer in an assembly plant, but not a steadfast rule...just unusual as a loose washer be it flat or lock or serrated is a recipe for misassembly. Aftermarket seems so fond of lock washers because they use hardware grade fasteners. Most OEM applications are torque prevailing and these fasteners can retain their torque/tension for 5 on/offs. Examine the nuts you have. If you see indents on three of the six faces...you have a torque prevailing nut....no loctite required.

BTW....I never use blue loc tight. Only works if the parts are extremely clean and you use their Kleen N Prime. I use red almost exclusively when needed. I have blue and red but blue had almost never seen the light of day from my shop cabinet where I keep adhesives and glues...

Wish I could give you the torque specs, but I have no access to this kind of info...

Kudos to you for asking for the specs as most folks just do it until it "feels" tight!

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[Ranger Roger]

Hi Roger,

I cannot speak exactly for the running boards, but let me express my opinion on these fasteners. First is that in all likelihood, they are metric and thus not Grade 8. Likely these are 10.3. Grade 8 by the way are excellent in clamp load but lousy in shear and for a running board the fasteners are in shear, so grade 5 would be better...Most folks do not get this, but as part of my job, I had a fastener engineer, Steve M....what a learning curve I got from Steve....

Ford rarely uses lock washers for OEM parts. In an assembly plant, the time to pick up a bolt, slide an lock washer in, not drop it and install with a nut is way too time consuming. We use trapped washers, UBS flange nuts etc. It would be rare to find a lock washer in an assembly plant, but not a steadfast rule...just unusual as a loose washer be it flat or lock or serrated is a recipe for misassembly. Aftermarket seems so fond of lock washers because they use hardware grade fasteners. Most OEM applications are torque prevailing and these fasteners can retain their torque/tension for 5 on/offs. Examine the nuts you have. If you see indents on three of the six faces...you have a torque prevailing nut....no loctite required.

BTW....I never use blue loc tight. Only works if the parts are extremely clean and you use their Kleen N Prime. I use red almost exclusively when needed. I have blue and red but blue had almost never seen the light of day from my shop cabinet where I keep adhesives and glues...

Wish I could give you the torque specs, but I have no access to this kind of info...

Kudos to you for asking for the specs as most folks just do it until it "feels" tight!

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

see pics attached. They are 13 mm flange bolts. Says 8.8 and I believe SF on them. Thought the 8.8 related to grade but in metric? I did look up some bolts on line and learned some info after reading your reply. I’m a retired engineer too like you but I’m a ChE, worked in Pharmaceutical industry. Always like to learn something new.

The runnings boards came from Ford on a Lariat. His wife didn’t like them so I bought them.

Thanks for the info

 

[Ranger Roger]

Like going back to school!

 

[Ranger Roger]

Found the attached on another Ranger 5g posting. Also found on You Tube. 34 lb-ft. I think I did more than that on all bolts. Will just check with torque wrench to ensure.

 

[Jdm4292]

where can I buy these bolts?

 

[cfhgarza]

where can I buy these bolts?

I don't know the size but belmetric.com has flanged metric bolts.

 

[Brian1017]

where can I buy these bolts?

Hardware store, the bolts are flanged M10 with a thread pitch of 1.50. You will need 12 bolts.
I purchased 8 20mm long and 4 30mm long bolts, they worked just fine. (Hardware store only had 8 of the 20mm) Lengthwise 30mm seemed to be unnecessary, but had no issues getting them in.
I put them in with red loctite, as the stock bolts that come with the kits appear to be pre-coated with it based on the installation videos I watched.

 

[THLONE]

The red neck rule is "as tight as you can get em and two more turns". ?

 

[Ace Holliday]

The red neck rule is "as tight as you can get em and two more turns". ?

Actually it's go until they break then back them off a half turn.

 

[NNayak]

If anyone is interested, these are the OEM fasteners: part number W712154 for a pack of 4. You will need three packs of bolts, twelve bolts in total:
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/bolt-6312227-1#sectionId:95018871

The OEM bolts appear to come with a patch type locking feature that happens to be red.

If you are buying non-OEM fasteners without the locking compound pre-applied, you could probably get away with putting nothing on these fasteners, as they are not in a heavy vibration application, and the installation torque will likely suffice to retain them. If you must put something on them, use blue loctite -- you will never get the fastener out if you use red loctite on such a large diameter fastener without using a lot of heat on the fastener.

 

[Jdm4292]

If anyone is interested, these are the OEM fasteners: part number W712154 for a pack of 4. You will need three packs of bolts, twelve bolts in total:
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/bolt-6312227-1#sectionId:95018871

The OEM bolts appear to come with a patch type locking feature that happens to be red.

If you are buying non-OEM fasteners without the locking compound pre-applied, you could probably get away with putting nothing on these fasteners, as they are not in a heavy vibration application, and the installation torque will likely suffice to retain them. If you must put something on them, use blue loctite -- you will never get the fastener out if you use red loctite on such a large diameter fastener without using a lot of heat on the fastener.

Thanks for this, my dealer quoted me $2 per bolt meaning $24 for all 12, gonna ask them to match this.

 

[Jdm4292]

Got em 92 cents a bolt

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Hardware store, the bolts are flanged M10 with a thread pitch of 1.50. You will need 12 bolts.
I purchased 8 20mm long and 4 30mm long bolts, they worked just fine. (Hardware store only had 8 of the 20mm) Lengthwise 30mm seemed to be unnecessary, but had no issues getting them in.
I put them in with red loctite, as the stock bolts that come with the kits appear to be pre-coated with it based on the installation videos I watched.

Red locktight is for permannt installations- IE: Never to be removed. You have to heat the blot to break the seal. Standard Blue locktight at the proper torque spec seems more appropriate for this application. The OEM bolt, though it may have a 'Red' locking band, that is not the same as Red locktight. it is removable.

Sponsored