Lightforce Switch Fascia and Wiring Thru Firewall

[tehschkott]

I'm with you, but this style of tap looks better, especially when paired with a nicely made harness.

That does look super clean, for what it is, you're right. Nicely done.

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[WxNerd2015]

I can grab a picture of where to attach the ground wire. It's one of the bolts that's just to the right of the fuse block. I used fuse taps on 22 and 29. I don't remember which is constant and which is ignition based. The picture below also shows Fuse 26 being used, but that's for my extra USB plug.

Fuse 35 would not work with the fuse tap because the fuse panel protrudes too far out, just to the left of Fuse 35. Fuse 29 doesn't have that problem, and Fuse 22 is on the right side of the fuse block, so there's room for the wire coming out of the fuse tap.

You need 2 different fuse taps; 22 takes a Micro3 three blade fuse, 29 takes a Micro2 two blade fuse.

This is a great write-up and information and helped me greatly with a similar installation for my Baja Designs off road lights! Thanks! For anyone else reading, I made note of which fuse is 12V constant power and which is 12V Switched on Ignition. Fuse 29 (2 Blade) is always on 12V power and Fuse 22 (3 Blade) is Switched on Ignition Power. Also, I did need to file the casing on the fuse tap in fuse 22 (3 Blade) as the Ranger fuse box slot was too small for the casing. So a little careful file work on the casing and it slid right in the slot no problem!

 

[Bzmustang13]

Excellent info! I am deciding to do some lighting as well, and am another electrical newb trying to figure out what to do. Similar set up as you guys above, but have some questions.

Will be installing A-pillar spot lights (Rigid DSS), a 20" light bar in the grill (TBD brand, will also have to move the ACC) and wiring those up to two Lightforce switches in their replacement fascia.

Since the Rigid spots and TBD lightbar will come with wiring harnesses that I assume have relays & fuses already built in, is there a need for connecting into the truck's fuses? Or putting a custom relay box under the hood like @RangerRaptor ? I have seen Lightforce facia installs on YouTube that did not need connecting to the fuse box for the switch lights to work, or at least it was not shown. Just connecting the LF switch to the light harness and installing the fascia.

I don't plan on putting any additional lights up front than that. Maybe some rear floods one day for lighting up a campsite, but that is it. For the A-pillars, it seems that all I'll need to do is cut off the supplied switch on Rigid's harness and splice that into the Lightforce switch of choice. Would appreciate guidance if I am missing anything.

For the light bar, I am less clear as I don't fully comprehend the voltage/amp ramifications. Could I just do the same thing, assuming the supplied harness has a relay and fuse built in? If those are the only two I'd pull through the firewall, it seems like the simplest way, but I want to be certain that I won't degrade the electrical or put unnecessary strain on the battery if there is a better way of doing things.

If I am totally off base here, let me know what I should look for to find a qualified professional to help out! Thanks in advance all. Trying to get a clear picture of the undertaking as I gather the parts and knock it all out at once.

 

[FiveChime]

Pics of the install and wiring from cab to engine bay. Lightforce Switch Fascia, Custom Relay Box, (2) Vision X Light Cannons, (1) Rigid Midnight Edition RDS 30", (1) Rigid Amber E-Series 20", (4) Rigid D2 Driving Pros, (2) Rigid SR-M Series Flood 4". Plus (2) Rigid SR-Q wired into reverse lights.

The $10 Wire Insertion Tool was the key to this easy install (easier than I expected, but not for a beginner).

These are fantastic photos outlining what you did. Would be kind enough to post a diagram of how you wired everything? I’m trying to wrap my head around what goes where and why.


I’m planning to wire a compressor and bed lights.

 

[AdamHarris]

Excellent info! I am deciding to do some lighting as well, and am another electrical newb trying to figure out what to do. Similar set up as you guys above, but have some questions.

Will be installing A-pillar spot lights (Rigid DSS), a 20" light bar in the grill (TBD brand, will also have to move the ACC) and wiring those up to two Lightforce switches in their replacement fascia.

Since the Rigid spots and TBD lightbar will come with wiring harnesses that I assume have relays & fuses already built in, is there a need for connecting into the truck's fuses? Or putting a custom relay box under the hood like @RangerRaptor ? I have seen Lightforce facia installs on YouTube that did not need connecting to the fuse box for the switch lights to work, or at least it was not shown. Just connecting the LF switch to the light harness and installing the fascia.

I don't plan on putting any additional lights up front than that. Maybe some rear floods one day for lighting up a campsite, but that is it. For the A-pillars, it seems that all I'll need to do is cut off the supplied switch on Rigid's harness and splice that into the Lightforce switch of choice. Would appreciate guidance if I am missing anything.

For the light bar, I am less clear as I don't fully comprehend the voltage/amp ramifications. Could I just do the same thing, assuming the supplied harness has a relay and fuse built in? If those are the only two I'd pull through the firewall, it seems like the simplest way, but I want to be certain that I won't degrade the electrical or put unnecessary strain on the battery if there is a better way of doing things.

If I am totally off base here, let me know what I should look for to find a qualified professional to help out! Thanks in advance all. Trying to get a clear picture of the undertaking as I gather the parts and knock it all out at once.

I just bought and installed some Rigid pod spot lights in bumper and Lightforce panel. Apparently I bought the lights with a “non-relay harness” but it included its own 10 amp capable switch, a kinda ugly round one that glows red when turned on. The Rigid lights pull about 5 amps (2.3 each or so). The one switch I received w my Lightforce panel is only a 3 amp switch so I’m going to say it will always need to be used in conjunction with a relay. I’m using the Rigid switch for now.

 

[FiveChime]

I can grab a picture of where to attach the ground wire. It's one of the bolts that's just to the right of the fuse block. I used fuse taps on 22 and 29. I don't remember which is constant and which is ignition based. The picture below also shows Fuse 26 being used, but that's for my extra USB plug.

Fuse 35 would not work with the fuse tap because the fuse panel protrudes too far out, just to the left of Fuse 35. Fuse 29 doesn't have that problem, and Fuse 22 is on the right side of the fuse block, so there's room for the wire coming out of the fuse tap.

You need 2 different fuse taps; 22 takes a Micro3 three blade fuse, 29 takes a Micro2 two blade fuse.

I did some homework and found the hot side of the fuses is the RIGHT side by using a multimeter. In my photo I have the fuse taps in backwards/upside down/wrong, which could end up blowing both fuses and possibly over tax the factory wiring. I’ve since corrected it.


I found alternative slots to not need a micro 3 tap and can do it with all micro 2. Constant hot is 26 and switched power is 35. See pic.

 

[tehschkott]

Are you saying the pictured orientation of the fuse taps is incorrect and should be flipped around?

 

[FiveChime]

Are you saying the pictured orientation of the fuse taps is incorrect and should be flipped around?

Yes mine are wrong and upside down and since fixed. They’re meant to show other options for unswitched and switched power.

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