Lariat B&O Full System Upgrade

[Dr3wDrop]

It's been a journey the last couple days. I decided behind the seat is too convoluted of a structure to build out of mdf, and that my gear in the larger under seat bin would fit in the spot where the stock sub was. So. The bin has been transformed into a sealed sub enclosure sealed with foam and a compression fit from speed nuts. I measured the volume with instant foam packing and decided not to try and build a box of that shape. This is a bittersweet determination for me. If I knew I would have the mounting depth I would have considered a beefier 8" sub. I'll stick with the Alpine S-W8D4 for now.

The amp assembly went in like a puzzle and I am worried it may need to be changed for the seat to close. Tbd.

Why did you choose to pull the plastic tub rather than make the mdf top to seal directly to the plastic tub as a lid? Is there more room to work with by removing the tub liner?

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[ZRanger727]

Here's the PAC APH-FD02 that will pigtail straight into the 5ch amp from the factory harness at the B&O amp, no extra wire needed, and will pass on Canbus to the Zen.

Does this mean you don't have to go behind the head unit ?

 

[brohammer619]

Why did you choose to pull the plastic tub rather than make the mdf top to seal directly to the plastic tub as a lid? Is there more room to work with by removing the tub liner?

I tried this and the plastic bin, even heavily lined with sound deadening just flexes too much. I ended up splurging and getting the JL stealthbox (not a cheap option) and it was remarkably better in every way.

 

[fusseli]

Not sure if I ever posted the update, but I ended up switching to the Alpine SWR-T10 and Aussie fiberglass sub box. This combo with my amp is fantastic. The Alpine S-W8D4 as I installed it was more of a bass shaker in practice and didn't make enough sound or rumble.

 

[rangerguycanada]

Not sure if I ever posted the update, but I ended up switching to the Alpine SWR-T10 and Aussie fiberglass sub box. This combo with my amp is fantastic. The Alpine S-W8D4 as I installed it was more of a bass shaker in practice and didn't make enough sound or rumble.

what amp are you running?

 

[Jimco]

Enjoyable writeup here fusseli thank you for sharing your adventures. I've yet to explore and been wondering what the B&O was broken down. I too am not enamored with the system in my Tremor, but it's better than some high-end OE audio systems I've heard. Deadening the panels is for sure, but not likely I'll tackle the component tear down you did.

The bass is funny to me. It feels like the sub is under the dash.....like most of the sound comes out of the front and very little of anything in the rear. Long ago I had a 2004 F150 with OE "Audiophile" system that was unbelievably awesome. Earth, Wind & Fire flat shook the truck. Think I could be happy with a better sub and maybe some better door speakers, but I don't want to mess with the amp and wiring.

Looking forward to more of your and others' audio adventures here. For the moment if I'm too unsatisfied in the Ranger I'll go to the Barn when I get home.

 

[fusseli]

what amp are you running?

Kenwood Excelon X801-5, it's a compact digital amp with 5 channels https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/x801-5/

Enjoyable writeup here fusseli thank you for sharing your adventures. I've yet to explore and been wondering what the B&O was broken down. I too am not enamored with the system in my Tremor, but it's better than some high-end OE audio systems I've heard. Deadening the panels is for sure, but not likely I'll tackle the component tear down you did.

The bass is funny to me. It feels like the sub is under the dash.....like most of the sound comes out of the front and very little of anything in the rear. Long ago I had a 2004 F150 with OE "Audiophile" system that was unbelievably awesome. Earth, Wind & Fire flat shook the truck. Think I could be happy with a better sub and maybe some better door speakers, but I don't want to mess with the amp and wiring.

Looking forward to more of your and others' audio adventures here. For the moment if I'm too unsatisfied in the Ranger I'll go to the Barn when I get home.

Yes the factory sub is so small that the door speakers put out about the same amount of bass. The doors are kinda like having 4 short travel 6" subs in large sealed boxes, the B&O sub is a tiny 5" in a tiny volume with a port and significant filtering applied. I actually like what Jeep/Dodge/Fiat have been doing for years now which is a 6x9 in each door and no sub. For stock those systems can be quite good, especially with upgrades.

I am very happy with the single Type-R Alpine flat sub, SWR-T10, in the Aussie sub box. It was a huge upgrade over stock and does perfect with 300W at 4 ohms from the X801 amp.

 

[fusseli]

Does this mean you don't have to go behind the head unit ?

Correct. None of the B&O upgrade I have done has touched the head unit. I've never even taken it out in my Ranger.

 

[fusseli]

Why did you choose to pull the plastic tub rather than make the mdf top to seal directly to the plastic tub as a lid? Is there more room to work with by removing the tub liner?

Yeah doing that maximized the volume, but in the end the sub was a little smaller than I'd like and ended up upgrading to bigger sub and fiberglass box that fits that same spot.

 

[rangerguycanada]

did you keep the facory sub hooked up as well as adding in the 10" in the aussie box? if so that harness did the trick? I have the aussie box on hand now and just need to order the sub. still decing on amp, and if I need that harness. thanks for the help

 

[fusseli]

did you keep the facory sub hooked up as well as adding in the 10" in the aussie box? if so that harness did the trick? I have the aussie box on hand now and just need to order the sub. still decing on amp, and if I need that harness. thanks for the help

No, factory sub and amp are long gone.

 

[rangerguycanada]

ok im torn here, I have the aussie box and the audio control LC2 on the way. I cant decide on the sub and amp. asking for suggestions on my short list
amp 1 Audio Control ACM 1.3 with the ACR-1 remote
amp 2 Kicker 46CXA400.1
sub 1 Alpine SWT-10S
sub 2 Kicker 48CWRT102 (if it fits, not yet confirmed)

i like the kicker stuff paired together, sub being a DVC and amp 1 ohm mono stable should work well but the acm 1.3 is so much smaller with space restricted so much and the alpine i know fits the box but these paired together is at 2 ohm.
can anyone confirm if the kicker sub fits the box and will the kicker amp fit behind the back seat?
thank you

 

[fusseli]

ok im torn here, I have the aussie box and the audio control LC2 on the way. I cant decide on the sub and amp. asking for suggestions on my short list
amp 1 Audio Control ACM 1.3 with the ACR-1 remote
amp 2 Kicker 46CXA400.1
sub 1 Alpine SWT-10S
sub 2 Kicker 48CWRT102 (if it fits, not yet confirmed)

i like the kicker stuff paired together, sub being a DVC and amp 1 ohm mono stable should work well but the acm 1.3 is so much smaller with space restricted so much and the alpine i know fits the box but these paired together is at 2 ohm.
can anyone confirm if the kicker sub fits the box and will the kicker amp fit behind the back seat?
thank you

Both are thin subs and would fit the Aussie box great!

SWT-10S2 has less xmax than the SWR-T10 but should be a fine sub. The kicker doesn't even list xmax so that speaks to the low quality of that brand.

 

[rangerguycanada]

SWR-T10 being 4 ohm, would the SWT-10S not be a better match for the Audio Control ACM 1.3 with the ACR-1 remote for a 2 ohm load?

 

[fusseli]

SWR-T10 being 4 ohm, would the SWT-10S not be a better match for the Audio Control ACM 1.3 with the ACR-1 remote for a 2 ohm load?

a couple hundred watts of quality amp is all a small sealed sub really needs. You don’t have to run the amp at max power and perfect load. My amp also puts out more power at 2 ohms than 4 but who cares? You’re talking 2-3db of max spl assuming many other factors.

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