Kicker 46hs10 powered subwoofer

[ICE 27]

I apologize ahead of time if this has been covered. Can this sub kicker 10 inch powered be tied into the speaker inputs of the factory sub?

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[ICE 27]

So kicker got back with me and said dont add the lc2i pro and zen wasnt needed just to add sub. The amp/ sub would filter the high pass signal . I know there are guys on here alot smarter on this then me. Is this correct? I have never worked with a ford system and cant find any video's of it being done with the kicker powered sub.

 

[Tom_C]

Hi. Can you post the link to the sub you're talking about, and provide explanation on that this means: dont add the lc2i pro and zen wasnt needed just to add sub.

I'm sure someone may have the answer, but there's a lot of others just interested from a curiosity standpoint, but we don't really know the context and therefore can't google it

 

[HDRanger]

ICE. Not sure if this'll help, but I had a Kicker PT250 (powered 10) in the trunk of my mustang. No l.o.c was needed. The kicker only required a battery connection, a ground and then the two wires tapped into the speakers in the mustang's rear deck for audio signal. The Kicker would "sense" the audio signal and power up automatically, no remote turn on wire was needed. The kicker also had built in crossover / filter capability to block out all of the high freq's.

 

[ICE 27]

ICE. Not sure if this'll help, but I had a Kicker PT250 (powered 10) in the trunk of my mustang. No l.o.c was needed. The kicker only required a battery connection, a ground and then the two wires tapped into the speakers in the mustang's rear deck for audio signal. The Kicker would "sense" the audio signal and power up automatically, no remote turn on wire was needed. The kicker also had built in crossover / filter capability to block out all of the high freq's.

Thanks, that's what kicker said.

 

[Msfitoy]

Do you have pics of where you placed it and the wires you tapped into?

 

[ICE 27]

Hi. Can you post the link to the sub you're talking about, and provide explanation on that this means: dont add the lc2i pro and zen wasnt needed just to add sub.

I'm sure someone may have the answer, but there's a lot of others just interested from a curiosity standpoint, but we don't really know the context and therefore can't google it

https://www.kicker.com/hideaway-hs10

 

[ICE 27]

Hi. Can you post the link to the sub you're talking about, and provide explanation on that this means: dont add the lc2i pro and zen wasnt needed just to add sub.

I'm sure someone may have the answer, but there's a lot of others just interested from a curiosity standpoint, but we don't really know the context and therefore can't google it
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp12a-a2b.html

 

[ICE 27]

Hi. Can you post the link to the sub you're talking about, and provide explanation on that this means: dont add the lc2i pro and zen wasnt needed just to add sub.

I'm sure someone may have the answer, but there's a lot of others just interested from a curiosity standpoint, but we don't really know the context and therefore can't google it

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i-pro/

 

[ICE 27]

Sorry, it posted 3 replies. The kicker is a powered sub, the zen is a signal converter for our B&O sytem so you can add a new amp and speakers. The lc2i is a 2 channel line converter for sub.

 

[HDRanger]

Looking at the wiring / install diagram on the Hideaway, it appears to be exactly the same as the PT250 I had in my mustang. Super easy install. Power wire, ground wire and left / right speaker wires for the audio signal / remote turn on. I would think that for the Ranger, it makes better sense to tap into the rear door speaker wires for the audio signal. I'm not sure, but I think I remember reading somewhere in the forum that the speaker wires can be accessed under the drivers door sill plate?? Or maybe behind the C-pillar plastics?? I'm sure somebody here knows exactly where to find the wires, as well as the correct ones to tap into.

 

[ICE 27]

Looking at the wiring / install diagram on the Hideaway, it appears to be exactly the same as the PT250 I had in my mustang. Super easy install. Power wire, ground wire and left / right speaker wires for the audio signal / remote turn on. I would think that for the Ranger, it makes better sense to tap into the rear door speaker wires for the audio signal. I'm not sure, but I think I remember reading somewhere in the forum that the speaker wires can be accessed under the drivers door sill plate?? Or maybe behind the C-pillar plastics?? I'm sure somebody here knows exactly where to find the wires, as well as the correct ones to tap into.

Out of curiosity why not use the green plug on the stock sub. They make a harness that will plug into that plug that comes out of amp. The other side plugs into kicker amp. Then you just have run power and ground. That's how I planned to do it. Need to think about it more.

 

[HDRanger]

I dont have the B&O system in my truck so I have never seen the plug you are talking about. That being said, I looked at a couple pics online. looks like the green plug is the subwoofer speaker wires. If there is a t-harness available for that green plug, that might be the ticket. But, I wonder if the signal passing through that green plug has been altered by means of a crossover? And if so, does it matter? I dont know the answer to that, but it seems like you'd want to grab the audio signal before it hits the factory amplifier and gets crossed over. There is a full-range signal leaving the head unit. It hits the amplifier, gets crossed over and boosted, then sent out to the speakers. Personally, I would prefer to send my Kicker a full range signal and use its' own crossover to filter what it sees. Additionally, if that green plug is an amplified signal and you send it to the Hideaway, will that be too much input power for the kicker?

 

[ICE 27]

I dont have the B&O system in my truck so I have never seen the plug you are talking about. That being said, I looked at a couple pics online. looks like the green plug is the subwoofer speaker wires. If there is a t-harness available for that green plug, that might be the ticket. But, I wonder if the signal passing through that green plug has been altered by means of a crossover? And if so, does it matter? I dont know the answer to that, but it seems like you'd want to grab the audio signal before it hits the factory amplifier and gets crossed over. There is a full-range signal leaving the head unit. It hits the amplifier, gets crossed over and boosted, then sent out to the speakers. Personally, I would prefer to send my Kicker a full range signal and use its' own crossover to filter what it sees. Additionally, if that green plug is an amplified signal and you send it to the Hideaway, will that be too much input power for the kicker?

I agree with you completely. That's how I have always done it. The sub can take up to 40 volts at 4 ohms. There was a guy on the f150 forum who said he successfully used the green plug and the sub handled the molested signal fine. I'm thinking I'm going to try the plug just to see if its possible. If not I will tie into the non molested signal. Plug is on back order. I will keep you guys informed.
Thanks for your help really appreciate it.

 

[Msfitoy]

Any opinions on these Cerwin Vegas? More RMS power and the price is right...

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