Is there an extension for the positive battery terminal to aid with jumping?

[RangerBill]

The only logical thing that I can think of that creates - varied battery test results (installed) is the change of metal types - Aluminum for the Buss Bar connected to what appears to be a Zinc Allow (Terminal) at the battery, and that small resistance barrier for a sensitive tester that specifically is looking at the resistance of the voltage pulse it sends through the battery.

This is my reasoning for trying to find a way to make a (Test Point) that makes direct contact with the battery post.

Zinc Alloy although conductive - Aluminum is far better

The buss bar on the positive battery connection is copper.

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[airline tech]

Be it tin / silver plated copper or aluminum - since this is an automotive product and aluminum is cheaper - I would say its aluminum. It's hard to tell for sure unless you scratch the surface and look for a color change.

Either way, there is still separate materials involved.

 

[RangerBill]

Be it tin / silver plated copper or aluminum - since this is an automotive product and aluminum is cheaper - I would say its aluminum. It's hard to tell for sure unless you scratch the surface and look for a color change.

Either way, there is still separate materials involved.

Aluminum is not a good choice for electrical connections unless a special grease is applied to keep moisture and air from corroding the connection and causing intermittent problems, especially with dissimilar metals being in contact with each other. Copper doesn't have this issue. On my truck, if I look at the edge of the buss bar, there is a definite copper color. The buss bar is plated, but underneath the plating is copper.

I've jump started several other vehicles with my Ranger and have not had to modify the positive battery terminal to get a good connection with the jumper cable clamp.

 

[airline tech]

Just to clarify here - I am also able to get a good connection, just the slight recess makes it somewhat difficult for some cable clamps. Due to the small size stud.

Now jump to using a Battery Tester - such as Top Don - produces varied results when using any available stud / nut in the BMFL with the battery installed.

I believe this is due to the resistance (itself) between the connection point on the BMFL and the battery post.
If I were to disconnect the battery the results would be more accurate, I am just attempting to find a (working) solution to get the same results from a test as if I was disconnected.

You have to keep in mind that not All Jumper cables are made with the same clamp sizes as well as jumper packs.
My small jumper pack - cables barely will stay in place and will pop off easily.
Just because you have a set of cables that provide no issues - others might not have the Exact same set as yours.
I have not used mine as a jumper vehicle or needed to be jumped.

I did connect the cables for a trial fit check (my jumper pack)

A normal top post battery would allow you to just connect directly around the post (battery terminal) - the recess of the AGM does not allow that.

This is why - most will connect to the easiest spot and that happens to be the worst spot you want - The 225-Amp fused connection.

So all I am trying to do is come up with a better solution to allow an easier connection point for jumper connections and also hopefully get a (valid / true) battery health check with test tools .

That is why this thread was created, ideas for a better - solid connection point without issues.

 

[RangerBill]

Just to clarify here - I am also able to get a good connection, just the slight recess makes it somewhat difficult for some cable clamps. Due to the small size stud.

Now jump to using a Battery Tester - such as Top Don - produces varied results when using any available stud / nut in the BMFL with the battery installed.

I believe this is due to the resistance (itself) between the connection point on the BMFL and the battery post.
If I were to disconnect the battery the results would be more accurate, I am just attempting to find a (working) solution to get the same results from a test as if I was disconnected.

You have to keep in mind that not All Jumper cables are made with the same clamp sizes as well as jumper packs.
My small jumper pack - cables barely will stay in place and will pop off easily.
Just because you have a set of cables that provide no issues - others might not have the Exact same set as yours.
I have not used mine as a jumper vehicle or needed to be jumped.

I did connect the cables for a trial fit check (my jumper pack)

A normal top post battery would allow you to just connect directly around the post (battery terminal) - the recess of the AGM does not allow that.

This is why - most will connect to the easiest spot and that happens to be the worst spot you want - The 225-Amp fused connection.

So all I am trying to do is come up with a better solution to allow an easier connection point for jumper connections and also hopefully get a (valid / true) battery health check with test tools .

That is why this thread was created, ideas for a better - solid connection point without issues.

I wasn't criticizing the concept of what you are doing. I have the same problem with using my Topdon battery tester as well, due to its small size clamps. I have found that clamping to the vertical edge of the buss (which is hard to get the clamp to stay on, since it is narrow), seems to be the best connection for the Topdon. I get the best readings clamping there. I haven't taken my positive battery terminal off to use the Topdon, but I am sure it would give the best reading. I wasn't trying to discourage anyone from finding a better solution, but my battery jumper cables work fine on the Ranger battery terminal connections.

 

[RangerBill]

Here are a couple of pictures showing my jumper cable connection to the positive buss of the battery, and my Topdon battery tester connections. Hope this may be of some help to someone.

 

[ctechbob]

If you're running around jumping vehicles that often and don't want to use a jump pack, it is hard to beat hard wiring an anderson connector in and either modifying or making a set of jumper cables to plug into it. Advantage is that one part stays connected to the truck, you just plug in, jump, and unplug. No need to even raise the hood.

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