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Engine ticking during idle/not under load.

RangerBill

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What section number in the service manual is this in?

And yeah, I'll have to figure something out for holding that clutch plate.
Attached is the entire clutch section.
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Extremepeta

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Section 412-00 Climate Control System - General Information 2019 Ranger
General Procedures
Attached is the entire clutch section.
Here are Air Conditioning specifications.
Amazing! Thanks for the files. I just checked, and yup, I don't have those sections. You wouldn't happen to have a wiring diagram for the AC Clutch would you? I have another issue with the AC Clutch aside from just the Pulley Bearing, which may or may not be related to the wiring harness.
 

RangerBill

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Amazing! Thanks for the files. I just checked, and yup, I don't have those sections. You wouldn't happen to have a wiring diagram for the AC Clutch would you? I have another issue with the AC Clutch aside from just the Pulley Bearing, which may or may not be related to the wiring harness.
Screenshot 2025-10-29 100917.webp
 

airline tech

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With the bearing being bad, the field coil is more than likely fried, and it will not engage.
 


airline tech

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Looks like another special tool is needed.
I do not recall removing this style but I think that if you hold the shaft with a socket and use a big crescent wrench on the flats you should be able to break it free as 24 Ft lbs is not really that much, however the threads may be corroded making it more difficult.
Since the manual is not calling for special tools indicates basic hand tools for the job.
 

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I took a peek at mine today, I believe as I previously stated - Hold the shaft with a socket and use a big wrench (size?) to rotate the clutch hub CCW.
I also with (Key On) was able to trigger the solenoid coil to lock the clutch.
So, to pinpoint if it's the clutch or wiring - Engage the solenoid and check for power at the clutch connector - this will confirm its the field coil of the clutch if you have power, I think its fried from the bad bearing.
 
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I took a peek at mine today, I believe as I previously stated - Hold the shaft with a socket and use a big wrench (size?) to rotate the clutch hub CCW.
I also with (Key On) was able to trigger the solenoid coil to lock the clutch.
So, to pinpoint if it's the clutch or wiring - Engage the solenoid and check for power at the clutch connector - this will confirm its the field coil of the clutch if you have power, I think its fried from the bad bearing.
You were right about the wrench. Managed to get it off today, but it was on there good! Had it soaking in penetrating oil for 2 days and it took some muscle to get it off.



I've got a small 3" and 4" pulley puller ordered. Hopefully I can get it off with just taking the lower fan shroud off and not having to unbolt the compressor and rotating it down.

I also think you're right about the coil. I removed the relay and shorted the connections with a jumper. I heard nothing and could still rotate the clutch plate. Then I measured resistance between pin 3 (or 5. Whichever one wasn't hot) and ground and didn't get a reading, indicating an open circuit. So next test will be to disconnect the field coil and test it directly at the coil and then test the wiring harness for resistance between the coil and relay.

i'll report back when I have it done. Next couple days are rain for me with the hurricane passing me by and all.
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