Understood - but if the new head unit must see - 12 Volts to Ground (Circuit)
or just any completed circuit - is the question?
Point is you will need to try it or check the parking brake switch connector (key on) and see if it is 12 volts or 5 volts, its depending on what the head unit wants...
Hmm - The Park Brake (Applied) switch is a single wire feed from the BCM (Power) and the switch itself provides the ground (when applied)
However this is BCM (output) controlled and it may not be a 12 volt power feed, may just be 5 volts. You would have to pull the connector and check for power...
I think its going to boil down to the (In service date) - that's the date the warranty starts and they sometimes create issues (Is the driveshaft considered part of - Powertrain?) yes for driveshaft BUT carrier bearing no (this will be the warranty department decision)
So 2 possible issues for...
It looks like you simply - release the zip tie (it has a release tab)
and then
unclip the safety from the tube end - just be careful as - plastic is brittle (heat aging)
and if you unable to get the zip tie to release - repeat the same for the bigger tube
or if the zip tie will release - just...
are you clearing these codes - and they keep returning?
I am thinking now - that the wheel speed senor or the wiring may be (shorting) is not just a bad signal - Battery Voltage appears normal range - for wake up - opening the door & hood, as it has a drawl on it and aligns with what i see (if...
I do not think its the - Rear Sensor
First - We need the complete code and the module reporting it to effectively T-Shoot the issue.
Using the codes posted:
I am focused on (Power Related) Codes
U3000 - If this is the ABS Module - U3000-(xx) and the other related ABS Module codes U0121 &...
That bushing prevents (blocks) you from adding washers as it takes away from what it is designed to do.
1. Alignment
2. Absorb Stress - Bolt & Threads and the upper mounting point (casting)
Update: Latest revision - posted:
The heater is available for the 2019-2020 Fusion (ONLY)
Projected date - parts availability for all others including the Ranger - Feb 15 2027
Try pulling the FCIM fuse for 5-minutes and then reinstall , this will force a , actuator cycle (recalibration) - a high end scan tool will show actual actuator position in (percent) - what Ranger Bill is saying - tap the button arrows to show (HI) and then (LO)
I am working on limited...
That is my thought as well - but he stated he marked it - if you look inside the receiver- you will note at the (index) locations the splines pick back up - and from what it appears- this is the spot it’s getting stuck
The only thing I can think of trying is to use a small file and gently file down the flat tops of the blue coating at the end of the shaft , to match the contour of the non burred splines
While I concur- it’s the wastegate actuator cycling - it’s abnormal to cycle like this @ idle, try turning off AC and see if it continues plus verify visually it is the actuator- as viewed from RT Front (Wheel House)
I know mine does not cycle like yours does and I think the actuator is hunting...
I would use caution on adding washers - adds stress to the mount points.
Thinking DEEP into what it’s actually doing. In general theory- it works, but I see a potential issue. :lipssealed:
IDK - just thinking out loud
Some thoughts:
Since this needs further investigation
1. Are the ears actually thicker than prior years?
2. Is there a tolerance difference between the tensioners (in question) -the edge that’s hitting the ear?
3. Note that - we need to also factor in - heat expansion when installing, what...