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https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/engine-rattle.21658/

It is probably the high pressure fuel pump clattering. They do it under load like that. Especially noticed when it is cooler outside. You won't hear it as much in the summer. There's a big thread here somewhere about it.

Is there a reason you can't just pull the center slip joint back apart and spin it 180 degrees? It should be keyed, but it can be put back together 180 deg out.

The 150K fluid change requirement worked exactly as intended, it got you out of warranty and it let Ford claim 'low cost of ownership'. One should almost always look at factory recommended service intervals through that lense. I've all but been screaming for the last several years that if you...

Yep, that's all it is. Always a good idea to pump the brakes any time you've changed pads or rotors and before you move the vehicle. Or else you could be in for a fun surprise the first time you try and move the thing and it doesn't stop and you end up with a car poking out of the garage wall.

Yes, they are saying to use the ULV fluid in the ULV applications, not the ATL fluid, which is all they had up until very recently. My points are twofold. 1. Amsoil, until very recently, did not have a ULV fluid. The closest they got is a 6.3 cSt 'LV' fluid (Their 'Fuel Efficient ATF')...

No, the 'ATL' (Fuel Efficient ATF) is not the correct spec for ULV. ULV is the correct spec for ULV. You run the risk with the ATL of screwing up shift timings in the 10R's. We've had a couple people experiment in 10R transmissions with thicker fluids and most of them are generally unhappy...

Provided it is a proper ULV fluid. Amsoil has only just now released a ULV compatible fluid, so for others that might be interested in alternative fluids, make sure you get the correct one. 10R transmissions are far too sensitive to viscosity to risk it on the thicker fluids. I hate to link...

Yep, I'm interested in the PHEV too. I kinda wish that Ford would do a 2.3 in the Bronco tune and put about 100hp worth of hybrid behind it, slap it in an F150 with about 2000# of payload. I think that would be my perfect upgrade, second only to a PHEV Ranger.

Yep, it and Mikes stick make it a no-brainer to do frequent-ish fluid changes.

Lol, that's one of about 50 I have on that domain. I usually make a separate one for each company I deal with so I can kill them off when not needed, or know who sold my damned address and cuss them out. That was a catch all address that I ended up using all over the place, and is the easiest...

Let me help. It is absolutely positively sooooo much easier than even using a pump. Yea, it is a $300 drain plug, but damn it was worth it.

Yep, asked PPE directly some time ago:

Don't forget that it holds about 1/2 - 3/4 of a quart more than the OEM pan. In case you were doing the 'measure what you take out to get close' thing.

Any way to get hold of the file for those of us with printers?

Lol, I actually hadn't seen that until just now. Great minds and all that!

Speed him up to at least 1.5x, otherwise it is a really slow video. Couple of things. They seem to be more focused on the higher-torque models, but he says a few things here that I've been preaching for some time regarding the 10R valve bodies. Mainly. It doesn't take much to knock these...

You'll be fine. I've mixed them ever since my first change. I usually buy whichever is cheaper at the time.

Doubt it. They know where the dealership bread is buttered. They also know that they would like to recommend certain things in the manual, but the beancounters won't let them because: It hurts the 'overall cost of ownership' 'It gets the truck out of warranty, so it's not our problem' (see...

That doesn't mean it can't help prevent other issues. There are multiple issues in the 10R80 battle, some can be helped by fluid, others cannot. You're not guaranteed which one you might or might not get, but there is really only one thing we have in our control to at least try and prevent...