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Yeah, the 6.5’ bed makes for a long truck, I can get by with the crew cab short bed. Unfortunately our agreement is she buys what she wants and I buy what I want, and she doesn’t want a bigger SUV than her Outback or a luxury car.

Sounds similar to what I’ve lived with. Gentle on the pedal it’s fine but if you need that sudden burst of speed, things go flat, stalls. Mostly under 2k rpm. I’ve also lived with a stumble between 1500-2000. I have found something that improves, no it eliminates it. A recent marketplace...

I consistently get 20mpg, with or without the tune. I recently did a 800 mile road trip and got 21mpg. 235/75/18 and a topper. Topper didn’t make any difference either.

I’m not ready to depart from my 70k mileage Ranger just yet but I’ve got one grandson and another one on the way and I will be needing more room. With that in mind I’ve been shopping somewhat and have narrowed it down to the Expedition & F150 crew cab. I also need room enough to load a...

Your computer may be off.

Your tires and lift is the reason for your fuel mileage sucks and only loosing one mpg from stock is pretty good. I assuming your hand calculating your mpg’s.

Same here on the recirculating button which also never stays on longer than maybe 15mins but my seat heater does remains on for remote start. My 97 Ranger had better heat and ventilation. Floor heat would cook your shins.

I need more cab room and a 6’ bed so it looks like a full size truck is in my future but I really like the size of Rangers. Earlier mention of Subarus, wife’s got an Outback, I find it too noisy.

I seldom select Auto unless the truck is fully warmed up. Does a great job maintaining temps but I have had it jump in Auto without selecting. Remote starting always turns on the rear defroster for some reason. No it wasn’t selected when stopped. That and the poor floor blower is my biggest...

Mines never updated. I called CS and they said the download is too big to load over WiFi and said the USB loaded from the Ford site is probably the best solution, or take to dealer.

My problem was pure stupidity. I must have had at one time or another or maybe it cleared when I changed the battery….but in the settings under remote start the system box wasn’t checked. Once checked, everything back to normal.

+1 on the Michelins

No regrets. Had a folding bedcover prior but I like the ARE topper much better and less road noise.

Good info. Has anyone noticed the remote start feature on the Start-X not work after changing the battery?? Windows will still lower and close when locked or open on 3 unlocks. Does a BMS reset correct this?

Mines 3.3 so I guess I need to call. Think I might reactivate my modem too plus my email on this account has changed and the app is no help on that. My old battery only gave one warning back in June(?) and I went ahead and purchased another that was on sale figuring it won't be long. Looks like...

68k on my 2019, stock battery hasn’t died but with winter coming up I decided to replace it anyway. Unrelated but Sync has never updated, icon just spins. I thought it might with a new battery but no difference. I also have the aftermarket plug-in remote start and window lowering fob gizmo...

Still got’em ??‍♂️

Bump

I was.

I ran these one step colder plugs for 2k miles and went back to the stock plugs, no problems or issues other than my indecisiveness. My plan was to put 10k on them and compare them to the stock plugs I pulled out, can’t wait that long. $25 shipped in the USA. NGK 95822 #ILTR7N8