I used this style of tap, which extends down alongside the existing fuse. Then made my own harness with a female spade connector and a bit of heat shrink tube.
No reason to get rid of it after you get your spray-in. I have that configuration and it's a nice combination of impact resistance on the floor and scratch resistance on the walls.
A couple 4x4s nailed together are a lot cheaper than a bottle jack. Plus they won't leak oil all over your bed.
And before you tell me you can get a bottle jack at China Freight for $7.48 which in fact would be cheaper than a 4x4 from Lowe's...well...I'm not putting MY head underneath that lol
Maybe instead of thinking in binary “will it do it y/n” you need to think more like “at what speed is towing this camper safe and comfortable?”
The shrimpy camper Floyd runs around with is a 75mph load no problem.
The 19 footer that I posted is happy at around 62-63mph.
I’m thinking the 29...
Forget about the weight, that's not the limiting factor. That trailer is way too long IMO and you're going to be all over the road with just a little bit of wind. Don't expect to be driving 70 ever, even after you get comfortable towing.
Used properly and in moderation, bondo isn't a bad thing. The fact that they are going to start with pounding it out is a good sign. You could request that they use mostly all-metal filler which is less likely to shrink, crack, and form voids.
This is not consistent with what you have indicated multiple times throughout this thread.
The truck is a boat anchor anyway, right?
I'm not disputing Ford's or the dealer's responsibility to fix the problem in the end, but complaining about it here isn't going to speed up the process. I see...
If you just pull your half shafts (also mentioned way back in post 11) you can be back on the road normally without causing any further damage. What's stopping you from doing this?
Instructions in section 205-04.